Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Sep 10, 2007 05:40pm | #1

   In what way does it not line up flush? Flush to what? (I have a BS14002, with the Ridgid riser block. Works great, although I've had to install new tires, and the bottom wheel seems to be very slightly out of round, leading to a bit of vibration.)

   -Steve

    

1. 
   CaptainDR | Sep 10, 2007 10:31pm | #2

   This picture should be worth 1000 of my lame words... I have replaced so much I should not call it a Ridgid ... I will market it as a Captain's Special like Shelby does with the Ford Mustang. I could have ( should have) bought a more expensive one had I known it would have been so involved. Lesson Learned. However I will say that it has done well now that I have upgraded almost 100% of it . <smile>

   
1. 
   saschafer | Sep 10, 2007 10:50pm | #3

   Hmmm. My riser block is laterally offset, too, but towards the outboard side, not the inboard side. I wonder what would happen if you rotated yours 180° about its vertical axis?

   In any case, it doesn't look like a big deal to me. There's plenty of bearing surface on the castings even when they're offset.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   CaptainDR | Sep 10, 2007 11:27pm | #6

   Thanks for the kickback Steve,

   I hd tried a 180 and the pins did not line up. I feel much better knowing that other riser blocks off set a bit. As you can tell it was not a big deal just one of those things that grates at my type A perfectionist gene.

   Thanks Again,

   Cap  

2. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Sep 10, 2007 11:04pm | #4

   Cap, when I installed my Rigid riser I cleaned both faces to surgical standards checking for bumps, burrs etc. in the guide pin holes. Sprayed the lower mount with brake cleaner(read cold), the upper wiped with T-9 and it would not seat down flush on the tapered pin, even using a small dead blow hammer.

   I dug out the alignment tool given to me by a navy Engineman buddy, a large long handled machinist crosspein hammer(we Machinist Mates never had a need for such a tool-he had spares) and a 3" pine block cutoff.  I stood on a shop stool to get above the problem and applied the tool 3 or 4 times and the block seated home nice and square . I reassembled the saw with a link belt, a Suffolk blade and it's Herculift wheel set-a giant PITA to install-and she runs great.

   I am curious that snugging up that long bolt did not pull yours flush like it does with the upper flange. Paddy

   edit: I see now the pic and if is square at the mounting surfaces you should be good to go. pfh

   
   

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   Edited 9/10/2007 4:12 pm ET by PADDYDAHAT

1. 
   CaptainDR | Sep 10, 2007 11:22pm | #5

   I had cleaned the seated ends as well. The pins fit well and once the it was secured it was gap free sofar as the seating. My main area of concern was in that it did not seem to align (vertical) to create the single unit that was present in so many pictures of others. I was worried that this may have been a safety concern. As to the saw itself I have it all adjusted and it seems to run great( at which time I am most fearful because this is not the norm <smile>) 

   While I can find no real clear fault other than cosmetic. I just wanted input as to if I was on a track to destruction.

   I can't say enough good things about the articles and post that helped me upgrade those faults I encountered. Thanks for your input.

   Cap

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Sep 11, 2007 01:21am | #7

   Cap, I didn't see the pic till after I posted , but edit helped. The pic is very grainy and very close but it still looks like your upper orig/ flange and the lower orig. flange are still in true alignment due to equal compensating offsets on each end of the riser block. In plainer terms your post is still true to the blade. Ya need to check your zero/ zero plumb of the blade to the table and adjust the table tilt angle pointer to true zero. If the back of the blade is not plumb I think you would have noticed the blade running off the side of the wheels or having to max out the tracking adjustment just to stay in business. You should check that you are running close to the same place on both tires. Good luck,Paddy

1. 
   CaptainDR | Sep 11, 2007 01:40am | #8

   Thanks for the great insights. I had done some of the tips you had offered and will double check on the others. Sorry for the poor pic all I had was my camera phone at the time and I felt it communicated the general idea.

   My test cuts came out well and everything tracks . I did not mention before but I had also replaced my guides with Cool Blocks. I must say well worth the money. I had the idea to buy a Kreg fence but upon examination I had access to the material to make one in the spirit of the Kreg.

   God bless those snipes from the Navy. I work with a few and they helped me out a time or two, NCOs the backbone of our services.

   Cap

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Sep 11, 2007 02:37am | #9

   Cap. good going, this saw dosen't cut fast but with a good blade(not ridgid or pc etc.) it cuts very very nice. Cool blocks were the first thing that I changed, cheap. accurate and safe for your blade. Being lazy/forgetful I also put a carter tension release on after seeing it discounted on the internet-you need the pc or imports version- shop it it's a good thing as Martha would say. Paddy