I just purchased a preowned SawStop professional 3HP cabinet saw. I’ve read enough on this forum to know the riving knife is an essential safety feature on the saw.
One of my first cuts was a groove in a 6/4 board. The top of the riving knife is a bit taller than the top of the blade which interferes with the cut.
I needed to do the cut and I could not adjust the riving knife lower, so I ground off the top of the riving knife. I thought it was better to have a shorter riving knife than temporarily remove it.
But have I introduced an ongoing safety hazard? Is that extra height a necessary safety feature? Should I order a new riving knife and just use my modified one when making a groove?
Replies
I'm betting the blade is an older one that has been sharpened a coupla times. I had that experience on a blade nearing its last round of life. I just swapped to a newer blade and went on with my day.
The riving knife is close to the back of the blade, so for most cuts where the top of the blade is above the lumber being cut I think you're fine. For a non-through cut I don't see a lot of danger, but Sawstop would say you've voided their warranty.
There are times I have worked without the riving knife, like cutting coves. Taking the knife out does not turn off the saw's safety features.
The riving knife on the 3HP PCS can be lowered much lower than required. Check the diameter of your blade. I assume it is close to spec or the SS won't clear the power on tests. That is, it would have to be within the adjustable tolerance of the cartridge. More likely is that the RK clamp block is not properly adjusted vertically. Here's the Owner's Manual page:
https://www.sawstop.com/support/manuals/professional-cabinet-saw/
The vertical positioning bolts used for adjustment are shown on page 77.
The riving knife on my sawstop is removable so you can do grooves or partial cuts. I thought they were all like that.
Why would you not just take it off??? You don't need a riving knife on a non through cut....
Just for clarity, the manual calls for the RK to be 1mm lower than the blade. It does not need to be removed for non-through cuts.
I agree they are not "required" for non-through cuts but, why bother removing it and taking a chance when you don't have to? I use the tablesaw as a joinery machine. The RK can stay in for tenons, bevels, finger joints, etc. The only time mine comes out is to put in the overarm guard/DC when cutting sheet goods; a rarity in my shop.
Best to leave it on. I had a board pinch closed and kick back on my old saw. A non through cut can still rotate into the blade and go for a ride, maybe taking your hand with it.
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