Replies

1. 
   YesIWood | Oct 20, 2005 07:34pm | #1

   Wolfman,

     Not sure about the finish but I would reconsider the "top" being made out of plywood.  I would be afraid that it may seperate with all that water.  A solid top that had it's grain filled would be better suited, I would think.

    

   Joe

   Is it really saw dust or wood dust?

2. 
   Jimma | Oct 21, 2005 12:08am | #2

   It is very thick. I used it on a walnut grandfather clock in order to get a high-gloss surface finish and wound up sanding most of it off after seeing the case completed. I think it would be an OK product for a table top (because it is thick), but it has a bit of a "plastic" look to my way of thinking. I'd suggest buying a small can and giving it a test. As for poly, that is a proven finish for surfaces that get a lot of wear. Several coats would be appropriate, maybe more on the top of a vanity if you don't use some kind of surface material like laminate.

1. 
   Wolfman | Oct 21, 2005 12:25am | #3

   Thanks for the replies. I was afraid it might have that plastic look, I think I will still try it on a scrap. I'm picturing it looking like the finish on a bar. Think of all the water they get exposed to. I will try the poly also.

    

1. 
   ClevelandEd | Oct 21, 2005 12:50am | #4

   I've heard that it "rubs out" very nicely, maybe because it is do hard.  I think that would negate that overly thick appearance problem. 

3. 
   RMillard | Oct 21, 2005 02:44am | #5

   I use the Rock Hard on all my table tops. It is a somewhat difficult product to work with, but the results are worth it.

   On the downside it takes quite a while to dry ( I allow at least 10-14 day before rubbing out)

   It is not for intricate surfaces, being thick and difficult to rubout.

   It will leave witness lines if you sand through into a previous layer, which will require recoating ( of course all non fusing finishes do this)

   It will skin over in the can if there is even a little air in the can.

   On the plus side, it is very durable

   Can look excellent if well rubbed out.

   I apply it without thinning, giving 3-5 coats, sanding between each coat except for the first two. After the last coat has dried for a couple of days, sand ( 400-600 grit) to make sure you can get a level surface, without creating any witness lines. Then let it cure for the above cited time. Then sand with 800 through 1500 grit paper , followed by pumice and rottenstone on a felt block, with mineral oil as a lubricant, to get the desired sheen. I speed up the process with a auto body buffer, but finish by hand, because I dislike the wet gloss the buffer leaves.

   I used poly for a top early this year, for the first time in a long time, and the results were similar, but it took many more coats to build a finish. I like the varnish over the poly, only because I'm such a traditionalist.

   Rob Millard

1. 
   Wolfman | Oct 21, 2005 03:52pm | #6

   Thanks for that detailed response Rob. I was hoping with its characteristics it would be suitable for my vanity. My sinks (read wifes sinks) are glass and will sit on top of the vanity, not set into it. I was going to drill the drain holes just a little bigger than necessary so I could coat the inside of those also. I am going to try both this and poly.

   Thanks,

   B.O.B.

1. 
   jerrymayfield | Oct 21, 2005 05:56pm | #7

   This varnish like waterlox is a short oil phenolic resin varnish.Because of the EPA requirements all of todays varnishes contain less thinners than before and in my opion should be thinned before appling. I usually thin the first coat 15-20%. No varnish including rockhard or any polyurethane varnish is really very hard,so can't be rubbed to a higher gloss. If you want to lower the gloss wait at least 30 days before you do so. Unless you will be playing hockey on your piece,Rock Hard will be a very good finish.RegardsJerry

1. 
   Wolfman | Oct 21, 2005 06:24pm | #8

   Thanks Jerry. I was also thinking about thinning it down. At least the first coat or two.

1. 
   BG | Oct 21, 2005 08:53pm | #9

   Wolfman,
   I cut mine 50/50 and apply thinly...damp cloth ish...no drips, runs, no problems. Make in small batches because, as Rob indicated, any air will cause the varnish to harden and you need a new batch. If I want a satin finish, and not wait a month to rub out, the last two coats I use minwax wipe on poly -satin.

2. 
   Wolfman | Oct 21, 2005 09:51pm | #10

   Thanks BG. I really don't want a high gloss finish. I'll try your method.