Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Aug 20, 2004 06:39pm | #1

   As you say, it  "runs good" so you're halfway there. You didn't mention a fence, only the front and rear support, so if it didn't come with one it sounds like it's setup for a contractor-type fence as opposed to the newer Unifence or Biesemeyer(with squared stock bars).

     The next step is alignment.With a combination square align the blade to mitre slot and then the mitre slot to the mitre guage.The cast iron top can be adjusted if needed by unbolting from underneath. For further info, Kelly Mahler wrote a thorough book on this, available from Taunton, and a comprehensive cabinet book will also help.

2. 
   SawdustSteve | Aug 20, 2004 07:08pm | #2

   Hi Tommy... From your description of the two 1.25" rails, it sounds like you have a setup for the old standard Delta/Rockwell fence. Check the numbers (serial #) carefully. Try calling Delta again. I think you got one of the 'I really don't care' people at customer support. There are so few variations of the standard unisaw that almost any parts list and instruction book should work. Their biggest variations came in the motor/switch combination and the fence. If you STILL have no luck, drop me an e-mail and I'll send you a parts list. Ian Kirby's book, 'The Accurate Table Saw' should give you all the info you need on getting the saw tuned up.

   SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)

3. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Aug 20, 2004 07:09pm | #3

   Yes, the Rockwell-Delta Unisaws are built pretty much like all the rest.  The key alignment is to get the table aligned to the blade.  You loosen bolts on the underside of the table to allow it to move.   The only other adjustments are the screws which stop the bevel at 0 degrees and 45 degrees.

1. 
   tommy2 | Aug 20, 2004 07:34pm | #4

   thank you gentlemen for you quick response. the fence appears to be about 2"high and about 1" wide it locks at front and rear may change that for a uni fence not sure yet. i may have gotten someone at delta that didn't want to play today must be the weather or friday i'll get back when we are up and running thanks again

1. 
   DaveHeinlein | Aug 21, 2004 12:27am | #5

   Everything you'll ever need to know about a Uni-saw is here;

   http://www.owwm.com

   As mentioned, it sounds like you have the old Jet-lock fence. I wouldn't bother with a Uni-fence, but would get a biesmier(sp) for long-term durability and accuracy.

   Edited 8/20/2004 5:29 pm ET by DAVE HEINLEIN

1. 
   jc21 | Aug 21, 2004 06:02am | #6

   I'm curious as to why you wouldn't bother with a UniFence. I've used both in shops I've worked at but prefer the Unifence. I have no doubt the Biesemeyer is more rugged but I think the UniFence is more versatile.

1. 
   DaveHeinlein | Aug 21, 2004 06:12am | #7

   How is it more versatile?

2. 
   jc21 | Aug 21, 2004 08:40am | #9

   Veneer/ laminate cutoff ability and cutoff work. You could clamp or screw a block to a Biesemeyer for cut offs but the Unifence makes it easy- just loosen and slide the fence back. No need to add to add the width of your block if you change the size of your cutoff and no clamps to interfere with taller stock. Same for veneer/ laminate work; the veneer/laminate "tail" (overhang) you want to remain slides under the fence while the particleboard/mdf goes against the fence. Again you could clamp a block to a Bies but the Unifence makes it easy. If I had shop with a bunch of employees a Bies would be my first choice for its ruggedness but for my own use I like the UniFence.

3. 
   DaveHeinlein | Aug 21, 2004 03:20pm | #10

   After using Besimeyer fences on several saws since the fence came out in the 70's, I may be a bit jaded, but I used a uni-fence recently on a friends saw, and found the aluminum extrusion to be rather weak, with quite a bit of deflection. I also found the double cursor to be inconvenient.

4. 
   mudman | Aug 22, 2004 08:33am | #11

   You forgot that the fence can be oriented so that it is only 1/2 " high with lots of hand space. That way your hand is not traped between the blade and the fence when ripping narrow stock.

   I share you experience. Beisemeyer is great for a shop full of heavy handed monkeys,  dropping it will not hurt it. But, the Uni fence is more versital.

   Mikeplease excuse my spelling.

4. 
   Mackwood | Aug 21, 2004 06:14am | #8

   tommy,

   You're a lucky rascal!  Your "get it out of here" price is once in a life-time!  All good advice so far.  I'll make a pitch for John White's book "Care and Repair of Shop Machines" (or something very close LOL).  Covers the tune up of a table saw like a blanket and several other machines as well.

   One more item; when you put your groovy new fangled rip fence on, save the old fence and rails.  There are restoration purists out there looking for these items.  Could be good trade material!

   You've gotten a great saw, take your time, get to know it and make sure it's adjustments are dead on.  You'll probably only have to do it once!

   Regards,

   Mack

   "WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

5. 
   mudman | Aug 22, 2004 08:36am | #12

   Two thirty amp breakers is enough for a 5 horse motor!! Before you use it you should switch them two 15 amps. only costs $4.

   Mike

   please excuse my spelling.
1. 
   JohnWW | Aug 24, 2004 10:07pm | #14

   Mike,

   Most saws don't have ordinary breaker boxes installed on them so it is likely that the breakers were added after the saw was purchased and as long as the saw has a proper starter switch aren't needed at all.  Ordinary breakers aren't designed for motor protection in any case, their primary function on the saw would probably be as a safety cut out for maintenance and they'll work just fine for this at the higher rating.

   John W.

   Edited 8/24/2004 3:12 pm ET by JohnW

1. 
   mudman | Aug 24, 2004 11:33pm | #15

   John,

   You are right that breakers are not very effective motor protection. However they are necessary for protecting against shorts, which is relatively common in shops. The reason that most large shops put breakers on their machines is because they have more than one machine on a larger circuit. Like a 20A. saw and a 15A. jointer sharing a 35A. circuit. The breaker is then needed to provide correct current protection, as well as a disconect. If you read the instructions to the machine it will specify the correct amperage. I suspect the saw had a 5 horse motor in the past as the breaker is right for that size motor. If the saw is conected to a properly sized breaker at the box it really dosen't matter. However, breakers cost less than $5, so why not?

   Sounds like you got a good deal. By the time you are done fixing it up you will fall in love with it.

   Mikeplease excuse my spelling.

6. 
   UnisawA100 | Aug 23, 2004 04:20am | #13

   What is the serial number of the machine?

   Is the motor "bullet ended" or have a TEFC style cover (like newer motors)?

   Is the side opening for the motor oval shape or rectangular?

   Is there a square Delta tag about 3" X 3" on the front left middle of the saw cabinet?

   Actaully, got any pictures?

   Keith Bohn