I have a question specifically about the back legs. Its clear to me that the side view of the legs clearly identifies how legs are tapered from 1 1/2 at bottom, 2 middle, and 1 1/4 top. What isnt clear as their seems to be conflicting information, is how the legs would appear from front view. Clearly a note next to drawing that says legs taper from 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 on outside edge from top of side seat rail – yet article says once you shape legs (using 1 1/2 blocks in jig, you are ready to move right into routing mortises. Seems pretty easy to create taper on table saw, but….
Maybe I have answered my own question. Thoughts?
Replies
There does seem to be a missing detail, doesn't there? I see the tops of the rear legs are shown as 1-1/4" but in the top view, the legs would need to be 1-1/2" for the math to work out for the width. The taper must start above the seat rail but I can't tell whether the taper is only on the outside or on both sides. If it was on the outside only, the curved back rails would be much easier to fit but I think that would make the taper very obvious.
I've drawn that chair in SketchUp but I see I didn't bother adding the taper. If I remember correctly, it was because I had this same question.
On further study, the plans indicate that both the back rail and crest rail are the same length. This would indicate that any taper would need to be on the outside of the legs only
Edited 6/3/2008 11:37 am ET by DaveRichards
Yes, like most drawings there is always something that is left out. Propbably like me, have it in your head but never get it on paper. I think I have accepted that taper is on outside of legs. Making a mock up to find out how it plays out. Here's next questions - Any guesses as to how far back/crest rail is mortised from back of leg? As for splat, do mortises follow curve of rails such that front edge of mortises are on same curve or do they follow in such a way that they are marginally stepped? If that doesnt make sense, look at PDF for chair and it should...
I'm playing hookie from my guests for a momoent but when they've gone, I'll open the model and see if I can answer your questions visually.
Sorry for the delay in responding. Guests stayed later than expected.
So I had a look at the drawing I did and the article. The mortises for the back and crest rails are centered 5/8" from the front face of the leg. This centers the end of the crest rail in the 1-1/4" dimension at the top of the leg.
The mortises for the back splat tenons follow the curve of the back. You'll notice in the drawing at the top of page 55 that it is only the thin pieces that get beveled. The tenons are shown with their faces parallel to the faces of the part. Also notice that Mr. Rodel uses a curved sort of fence on his mortise and he slides the rail along it.
I saw your question about a jig for angled tenons. I assume you want to cut them with a router? Don't make it too complicated. You can take any of the typical T-shaped tenoning jigs and add a wedge to the clamping surface to orient the work at the desired angle.
Thanks. I think I worked out the part about tenons for splat, but wasnt sure about location of mortises in leg for crest rail and the one below that. Seems they can be located just about anywhere in thickness of leg as they operate independently of seat.One more questions. As for upholstered seat, I've seen chairs with tops of legs notched to hold plywood base but this one doesnt seem to tackle that. So without cutting out part of the front legs and with the back rail where it is (i.e., not flush with inside of back legs), what kind of seat can I expect to make?I do appreciate your insights!
Chris
The article shows how the seat is constructed. It looks to me from the picture as if the corner of the upholstery has what you might call a small miter due to the way the leather is folded. The article indicates that the seat fits inside the rails and is screwed to the corner blocks. From my drawing, there's only 3/16" between the inside faces of the leg and the inside edge of the corresponding rail. I think the leather will just fit inside the legs without notching the legs.
Since you plan to cut the tenons on the tablesaw, I supose you can make a similar sort of wedge arrangement to attach to the tenoning jig.
Edited 6/4/2008 9:38 am ET by DaveRichards
Edited 6/4/2008 10:58 pm ET by DaveRichards
I just saw this thread, and was wondering if you have all your answers? I am building the chair also and have cut and prepared all the parts. I just finished the first back splat and I will glue it up today as a test for the rest of the chairs. I am making a set of 4 for my Kitchen table. I haven't started the seat yet, but I made a similar seat for a rocking chair I finished a couple of months ago.Just curious if you have finished any yet.Cheers
Eddie
Hello Eddie,
Thanks for checking. Actually I didn't have the question and unfortunately I haven't even bought wood for any of those chairs. Good luck with yours. Post pictures willya?
Dave
No problem, I will be glad to post pictures of the chair, I actually started them some time ago, then did a long awaited addition to my workshop. which I have now finished so I am back to the chairs. I have all 4 at the dry fit stage and started working on the back splat last week. As I said earlier I have dry fitted one with the back splat and I am going to glue it up tonight. Still have some sanding to do on the rest of the seat rails but should be able to finish it this week.
Dave,Here are a few picture I took doing the dry fit. Still have some sanding to do but it is coming together.
Edited 6/26/2008 8:04 am ET by IsItSquare
Hey, thanks. That looks really good. You should be pleased.
By the way, it looks like you've got plenty of shop space. Could I borrow some? ;)
Oh yeah - plan to cut tenons on table saw. Not a big fan of floating tenons like he uses. Seems simple in theory.
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