Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 25, 2003 11:43pm | #1

   The original Briwax contains toluene (check the label) which can damage finishes that are not fully cured. Briwax is an excellent restoration wax that cleans grungy surfaces and that's what it is made for. I generally recommend that finishes less than a year old not be waxed with original Briwax.

   They are now marketing a wax made with a standard petroleum product that should be OK.

   Let me mention though, neither BLO or wax, sepatately or together, is a good finish. They have no protective qualities and no durability. Water and water vapor passes right through.

1. 
   BrianMcG | Apr 26, 2003 09:08am | #4

   Thanks Howie, I elaborate a bit in my post to Forestgirl. Thanks for the info, Brian

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 26, 2003 12:27am | #2

   Brian, what type of piece are you thinking about for the wax finish?  If it's a table, dresser or other piece that's likely to get bumps, bruises or be used to set a glass on, wax wouldn't be your best choice.  However, if it's a wall cabinet, picture frame, pretty box or similar piece, wax would probably work fine (or, you could use shellac followed by wax).

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   BrianMcG | Apr 26, 2003 09:06am | #3

   Hey Jamie, Well I think I put the cart before the horse here. I'm building a small two door (raised walnut panel) cabinet for a friend. I put two coats of tung oil (finish) on the panels and, w/o really thinking about it, put Briwax on. It doesn't look too bad but has a kind of very slight milky appearance.

   There are two drawers inside with walnut fronts. I wanted to try something else, so I put on a coat of BLO. They look really good at the moment but need that little "extra" something to really bring out the fleck.(correct term?).

   Neither the panels or drawer fronts will be handled much and, of course, will be indoors.

   What do you think?

   PS...Sent you and email about the show.

   Brian

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 26, 2003 07:42pm | #5

   Hmmmmmm, I dunno, I'd be tempted to use turpentine to remove the Briwax and let that piece sit for a couple days.  How long did you wait between the tung oil and the wax?  Maybe you could test a small spot to see how much the "milky" appearance goes away if you use turp to remove the wax. 

   Wax, IMO, is an appropriate finish for the piece -- you don't really need a lot of protection.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   Gretchen | Apr 26, 2003 08:06pm | #6

   Actually he says "tung oil finish"--the infamous stuff.  So I am guessing it is not really tung oil but thinned varnish.  I think he has compromised his finish by putting the Briwax on before the finish has anything like cured.  I think it is a start all over situation--the toluene has smeared the finish.Gretchen

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 27, 2003 12:27am | #7

   That would be my opinion also, Gretchen.

2. 
   BrianMcG | Apr 27, 2003 09:31am | #8

   By start all over do you mean use turpentine to "strip" it..or like whole new panels...:(   Brian

   Edited 4/27/2003 2:36:56 AM ET by BrianMcG

3. 
   Gretchen | Apr 27, 2003 02:11pm | #10

   By start all over do you mean use turpentine to "strip" it..or like whole new panels...:(   Brian I suppose you could try using the turp or mineral spirits to remove the wax (do a thorough job) and see what it looks like. However, I think you have a coat of varnish on it, thin though it will be, and that is still going to be there and is probably what is cloudy because of the toluene.  It will probably take a real stripper.   Whether that is easier than just making new ones, you can answer.  There is not much finish on it so stripping probably would not be  a biggie.  Just be sure to get the stripper off completely with mineral spirits or your next finish will be bad.Gretchen

4. 
   forestgirl | Apr 27, 2003 06:34pm | #11

   Brian, turpentine is what you use to remove wax.  If you were to have a piece of furniture that had years of wax build-up and needed to be cleaned and re-waxed, you would remove the old using turpentine.

   Have you looked at the can of Tung Oil Finish to verify that it is or is not pure tung oil?  As mentioned above, the concern is that you may have used an oil/varnish mix, which may complicate things.

   Whatever happens, you're going to need to clean off that wax, so doing that and letting the piece sit for a day before going to any additional steps is a start.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   BrianMcG | Apr 27, 2003 09:36am | #9

   About 36 hours between Tung and BLO (Hmmm, that doesn't sound good does it? :)  Will try the turpentine in a couple days. Thx, Jamie. 

   Edited 4/27/2003 2:37:34 AM ET by BrianMcG

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 27, 2003 10:11pm | #12

   Brian, the more I read this thread, the more confused I get. What exactly did you do for a finish/ I see references to BLO and I see references to "tung oil finish". Then I see references to wax.

   Please go through your finishing schedule again. What did you do first? How long did it dry? What next? Brand of "tung oil finish". Was the wax truly Briwax?

   BTW, any petroleum thinner--mineral spirits or naphtha--will as readily remove paste wax as turpentine. Use whatever you have or is cheaper. Just be sure to keep changing the towel or rag to a fresh face or you will be just moving the wax around.