Replies

1. 
   riverr1 | Nov 04, 2002 03:28am | #1

   What was the problem that it took that much to clean up? A lot of times you can save alot of wood by cutting your rough sawn down to smaller pieces. Especially with warped boards.

   Don

2. 
   BBleiler | Nov 04, 2002 03:39am | #2

   The piece I planed down was cupped,but not enough too cause that much wood removal. Also there was a fair amount of wain at one end.

3. 
   twoodward15 | Nov 04, 2002 04:38am | #3

   you do know that 5/4 is 1 and 1/4 inch thick, right???????  How did you wind up taking off 3/4 inch???  are you using your planer as a joiner?????  Maybe someone hosed you and sold you a 3/4 piece saying it was 5/4.  I don't know man.

1. 
   BBleiler | Nov 04, 2002 05:51am | #4

   Yes, I do know that 5/4 is 1 1/4". The piece of lumber that I bought was 5/4 stock. I am new at woodworking, but I spent several years as a framing carpenter so I know a little about wood. I don't know how I ened up with with a 1/2" piece,but this is how I went about dressing the lumber. I jointed 1 side of the board so that it was smooth then I planned it, by the time I was done the board ended up being 1/2" thick. The only thing that I can think of is that when I was jointing the board,that I jointed it until the wane was removed from 1 end. Any input would be appreciated.

   Edited 11/3/2002 10:01:08 PM ET by BBLEILER

1. 
   RSRose | Nov 04, 2002 07:23am | #5

   BBLEILER,

   You probably had enough curvature in the different planes in which your board was warped, that until you had planed down to a uniform flat board, only 1/2" of material was left.

   The laws of geometry can't be broken, but you can sometimes go around them. When truing up boards with a lot of warp, you can rip the board into smaller widths, flatten them (jointing and planing) and glue the strips back together. Each narrow strip has less distance from the peak of the curve to the trough, so each ends up thicker when flat than the un-ripped whole board.

   If the curve is end to end, cut the board into shorter lengths and rejoin with finger joints, mortise and tenon, floating tenons or other joints suitable for end-to-end joinery.

   The sawing and rejoining may seem like a lot to do, but if the stock is otherwise valuable (like figured exotic hardwoods) it's the only method to use, other than accepting the thinner result.

   The alternative, of course, is to use other lumber than warped stock.

   Rich

2. 
   twoodward15 | Nov 04, 2002 07:20pm | #6

   I know this is off track, but unless you bought the wood cheap, I would find a new supplier.  I've never heard of having to take that much off to get it square.  It is a shame that you had to take it down that far.