Replies

1. 
   Biscardi | Jul 11, 2004 10:58pm | #1

   Ham,

   Tung oil will soak in more in some parts more than others. This leaves an uneven finish. Every two coats you should let it dry completely( 8-12 hrs), rub it with 000 steel wool and then use a tack cloth to get the nibs and dust off. Then you can continue to build up the finish. When it is where you want it, let it dry for 24-48 hrs. Then rub it with clean 0000 steel wool dipped in  paste wax. Rub it till you get the shine knocked down to where you want it.

   As you already have so many coats on it, I'd probably use 620 grit paper . Avoid the edges or you'll sand through the finish. Once it is flat, it may still need a coat or two. Don't worry, you can't very easily ruin an oil finish.

   Frank

1. 
   ham | Jul 12, 2004 03:49pm | #2

   Thanks Frank, your info. done the trick. Was up and at it at 5am this morning and all is going well. Thanks again.

1. 
   Biscardi | Jul 12, 2004 09:35pm | #3

   Ham,

   That is great. I am glad I could help. The technique I described also works with shellac.

   Frank

2. 
   Gretchen | Jul 14, 2004 02:11pm | #4

   Is this "tung oil" (pure 100% tung oil)  or "tung oil finish". The latter is not tung oil but a varnish finish. 

   Gretchen
1. 
   ham | Jul 14, 2004 04:06pm | #5

   It's Minwax Tung Oil Finish. This is the first time I have used it. With all of the small areas to do on a baby crib I thought it would be better than the 1/3 1/3 1/3 oil, varnish and turpentine I have used in the past.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 14, 2004 04:50pm | #6

   Hate to tell you but Minwax Tung Oil Finish is an oil/varnish mixture containing no real tung oil. It is essentially the same as Watco and is almost exactly like your 1/3 oil, 1/3 varnish and 1/3 thinner.Howie.........

1. 
   ham | Jul 14, 2004 05:52pm | #7

   I did not know they were the same, I though the Minwax was more on the Tung Oil side and would require less sanding in hard to get at areas. The side rails and ends have 100 spacers that are only 3/8" wide between slats that are 3/8" by 1&3/4". Small spaces for large fingers and big chance for going through the finish sanding between coats needed for the 1/3 1/3 1/3 oil, varnish, turpentine. I just finished a cherry dresser using above finish and know the work needed between coats, thought the Minwax Tung Oil Finish would not need the same sanding. If the Minwax Tung Oil Finish is the same as my home brew why did it leave such a uneaven finish between coats on the same cherry wood as the dresser that I had a nice even finish with 12 coats of home brew? Was there a better way to go? If so what would it have been? I am a first time post to this form and can already see it will be a great learning place,thanks so much!!

1. 
   Pondfish | Jul 14, 2004 09:19pm | #8

   Cherry wood is notorious for blotching when using penetrating oils.  The blotching depends on wood grain (i.e., porousness, porosity, or suckingupinthepores-osity, whatever).  You could have different degrees of luck with different projects because you've used (obviously) different pieces of wood, each with its own propensity to absorb oil differenty. 

   A handy book for learning lots of finishing lore is Jim Ritchey's book Finishing - Methods of Work, a nice collection of 25 years of FWW tips.

2. 
   Gretchen | Jul 14, 2004 09:32pm | #9

   I think unfortunately you have treated this varnish like oil--wiping it on and wiping it off--so the finish is very rough because some of the varnish had already started to dry when you tried to wipe it off.  I think you'll have to strip it and start over. The good part of that is that it won't be that much to strip.Gretchen

3. 
   ham | Jul 14, 2004 11:48pm | #10

   Thanks everone for all your input, I took Franks advise and sanded with 600 grite vary lightly. Put on two more coats, all is well. Now I'll get out the 0000 steel wool and paste wax to complete. Thanks again!!

4. 
   tucsonreddog | Jul 15, 2004 02:17am | #11

   I'm having a similar problem with "Minwax Tung Oil Finish." I used it on the fir panels for the bookcase that was on the cover of FWW a few months ago and they came out pretty blotchy. Also, the can says to apply, let stand for a few minutes and "buff." I applied it, let it stand for a few minutes and wiped it off, which is what I assumed they meant by buff. After the first coat, it was hard to see how it could build up when the wood was sealed by the varnish and I was just wiping off what I put on. My thought is to sand the panels with very fine sandpaper--320 maybe--and then put on another coat or two in the hope that the finish will even out. I don't much care for the material, though, so I hate to keep using it but I don't see a great alternative.

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 15, 2004 07:22pm | #12

   >>After the first coat, it was hard to see how it could build up when the wood was sealed by the varnish and I was just wiping off what I put on.

   You are absolutely correct. That is the reason that the directions for use of oil/varnishes say to apply one coat as you describe, let dry and apply a second. The second gets any spots that may have been missed in the first application or any areas that can absorb more. But, little if any will be absorbed during the second application. You end up wiping virtually all of the finish off leaving just a very small amount of oil. Too much oil from too many applications will just make for a gummy surface.Howie.........