Replies

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jan 26, 2004 06:46am | #1

   Mbiker,

   I'll speak metric here as they're the standards I'm used to

   25mm rough sawn dresses down to 19mm finished
   38mm rough sawn (1.5") dresses to 32mm
   50mm rough sawn (2")    dresses down to 42mm
   100mm rough sawn (4")  dresses down to 90mm
   150mm rough sawn (6") dressed down to 140mm.

   Now this is a green sawn to dried timber conversion, but I'd still use similar allowances for cupping/twisting as you cut.

   Cheers,

   (have to rush)

   eddie

2. 
   VeniciaL | Jan 26, 2004 07:07am | #2

   Mbiker,

   Rough ripping on the bandsaw is not only acceptable, but a good way to work. It's how I do it.

   I was very pleased to see an article a few months ago in FWW describing the milling process from rough to final dimension. The author emphasized that he never used the table saw for ripping until he was ready to take that last small amount of trim cut from the stock.

   Prepare your rough stock slightly oversize (a few sixteenths) in all dimensions, taking material from both faces and let it sit for at least several days, if not a bit longer to allow it to move (it will). Then final joint the reference face, and edge of each board and take the stock down to its final dimension on the planer. Then final trim to width on the table saw.

   If your equipment is set up properly (true and square) you will have much better stock than you have ever worked with as S4S from the lumber supply.

   VL

3. 
   GHR | Jan 26, 2004 09:25am | #3

   I am amused with people who leave so much stock on.

   I often handle 4"x6"x10' & 8/4x12"x12' rough sawn stock. After bandsawing, I clean up the surfaces with a couple passes through a thickness sander. Total stock allowance including saw kerf is 1/8". (That is 14 1/8" pieces from 3.5" wide stock.)

   In any case determine how well your saw cuts and leave no more than necessary.

4. 
   biosf1 | Jan 26, 2004 09:32am | #4

   I'm a porfesinal furniture builder and I never heard of any one or do I use a band saw to rip rough lumber, I cut most of the lumber for the length, one inch longer than net size or more , depeding on how wide or if the board has any curve. then I surface plain it 1/32 over the thickness I need it when finished, That's about how much I leave for sanding, and if your edge gluing any of them for a pannel then just surface them enough to joint then, then surface them after gluing them together.

   Got any more questions : E mail me at , [email protected]

   I would be glad to help , I'm also a member of West Michigan woodworkers guild and help out with many of the felow members.

5. 
   RMillard | Jan 27, 2004 03:40am | #5

   Mbiker,

   I think the bandsaw is by far the safest tool to use to rip any stock, since there is no possibility of kickback. I use mine everyday for this and most other cutting tasks. My tablesaw sits unused for months at a time, despite the fact that I work with wood 40-45 hours a week.

   I won't ever cut wood to fit a jointer, but this of course would work. Instead I use either a hand held power plane or a scrub plane to flatten a face before sending it to the surface planer. I cut my stock about ½" wider and longer than the finished dimension. If resawed to thickness, I leave about 1/8" over the finished thickness.

   Rob Millard

6. 
   joinerswork | Jan 27, 2004 04:21am | #6

   Mbiker,

   I would rather use the table saw to rip.  With appropriate blade, and awareness of safety issues, I think it's faster, and more accurate.  Nothing wrong with using the bandsaw, though, if that's what you want to use. I'd hand plane the stock enough to remove twist and/or cup before I'd rip a nice wide piece to the width of my jointer. 

   My general rule of thumb for allowances in sizing rough to finished are: 1" over length, 1/4 or 3/8" over width, depending on the length of the piece.  You need to allow enough for some movement after ripping.  1" rough stock will often yield 7/8" thickness, esp if it was sawn plump. 

   Good luck,

   Ray 

7. 
   WayneL5 | Jan 27, 2004 05:23am | #7

   I've found through some experience, though not extensive, that the more warped, twisted, or whatever a board is the more it will move (release) when sawn.  So, if a board is quite straight you can get by with sawing not much oversize.  If the board is really bad, sometimes I have to saw it much over size, say an inch wider, let it release, then saw, joint, plane, or whatever in several steps, inching up on the final size.  I often save those boards for shorter or less critical pieces.

8. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 27, 2004 05:53am | #8

   I plane everything first.  The only time I edge saw first is if some pieces are wider than 12" (the width of my planer).  I edge saw with a straight edge and a circular saw on saw horses.  I'm to old to hoss a 10' rough board through either a table saw or my band saw.  I rarely buy 8/4 stock. 

   When planing I first take just enough off of each side to get through the rough.  I then stop and examine the boards.  Those that don't need jointing, I plane down to about 1/16" over final desired thickness.  Those that do need jointing go into a pile for later ripping and jointing on my 6" jointer.  But, I don't do those until they are needed.  I tend to use those boards for the smaller pieces needed on any project.  I saw them to desired length then joint and do the final planing at that time.

   After the above I restack and sticker the lumber awaiting the time when it's needed.

   When I buy rough lumber I generally buy a minimum of 100 bf.  Approaching it this way gets most of the hard work out of the way at one time and tells me how good the lumber is going to be.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

9. 
   vern | Jan 27, 2004 09:21am | #9

   I too -have a 6 " jointer and a 13 " planer-- 99% of my work seems to be 2ft and under in lenth--if I need to rip a rough-cut board down to 6" I will use my band saw-- the one that I use to resaw with [1/2"-4 tooth blade] why? because twice I have been gutted by a board that has a cup in it and whenthat fact is not notted and the down edge catches in the miter groove that board is headed out it happens during that automatic sweep at the end of the cut.. the first time it happened --I chaulked it up as an accident --the seconded time -I took the time to figure out what actually happened-- PLUS warped wood tends to bind against the fence---so band saw here I come-- if these are over 6" wide and relativly short [18"] I will use the TS top to determine the thickness of a shim needed to keep the board from rocking --then feed then board thru the planer with the shim under it--then of course, flip it over and use the planed side as your new flat side but check it on your TS first for flattness--when a board is flat-- it should sound like a beaver's tail when you pick up one end and drop it down on your TS--an old timer showed me how to shim--just be sure your shim comes on thru all the way and it doesn't stay on the platnum if it does shut down and get it out

1. 
   mbiker1999 | Jan 28, 2004 09:04pm | #10

   Well thanks for all the replies with the great ideas.   This forum continues to be a great source of information and a great way to bounce ideas around. 

   Thanks again!