I am constructing a crib from plans which calll for 2″ tapered and shaped spindled which narrows down to ends that are 1/2″ sq. The plan then calls for using a 1/4″ roundover bit the entire length of both sides. The effect is that the ends not become 1/2″ dowels which are then finshed to 7/16 and inserted into the top and bottom rails drilled to receive them. The plans provide for a jig to then reduce the 1/2 to 7/16.
My problem is that how to route the ends. Using a roundover bit with a pilot bearing will not produce the correct shape since on the reverse side of the cut the bearing rides under the “edge” or the true tangent. The design is such that I can’t run the piece against a fense. I’ve considered tapping the router plate and placing a pivot pin as close to the bit as possible then free handing the job using the pin as aguide but I’m curious if someone has a better suggestion.
Doug
Replies
If I understand the problem you can't route the end of the spindle with the 1/2 bit because the bearing won't have anything to ride against (after the cut on the opposing side).
Seems like you could make a jig to do this. Think of a flat board with a fence on it, and a dado or groove where the spindle rests. The fence would be fixed the correct distance away from the edge of the spindle so that the fence, not the bearing bit, keeps the bit the correct distance at the edge of the spindle. You may have to use double sided tape to keep the spindle in place. Router bits aren't always in the center of the router, so I'd always run the same place on the router base against the fence. You can set the fence after routing the first edge, by turning the router off and running it down the spindle, with the bearing against the spindle, and fixing the fence against the router base. The next 3 runs of the router should be exactly the same distance from the spindle so that the result will be round and what you want.
John
John,
Close. The stock is 1/2" sq. and then applying the 1/4 roundover to create a 1/2" dowel end. If I understand your concept correctly, I would creating a template to hold the spindle in a prescribed postion and template will run against the bearing. If so, the template thickness cannot exceed that of bearing thickness plus the distance between the top of the bearing and beginning of the cutting edge of the cutter. Is this right.
Doug
Actually, I'm not thinking of a template.
With the dowel stock .5" thick, create a 2 foot board about 8 inches wide and as thick as the dowel (in this case, .5" thick). Attach it to another board that is 2 feet long and 9 inches wide. This will create a groove/dado where you can insert the dowel stock and clamp it securely.
Run the router bit over the dowel stock, creating three of the four curves. The router bit will have stock to ride on until you get to the last side.
With the stock in the jig, and after you've made the 3rd routed edge, turn the router off and don't move the dowel stock. Place the bit against the dowel in several places and clamp a straight edge to the jig so that the router bit touches the dowel stock along the entire length of the distance you need to route.
Now you can turn the dowel stock to the last edge, and you run the router against the straight edge to get the last detail. In point of fact, you could place the straight edge first and do all four edges using a bit without a bearing.
John
Thanks John, I think I get it and I'll try it tomorrow.
Doug
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