Hello I’m new to these forums. Also, not new to wood but just picking it up again and building my shop after 30 years off.
Today I purchased an intermediate router table from Ryobi and a 2.5 hp router from Rigid. I also bought a 1/4″ half round bit. Set it all up and then the problems started. (as is always the case with me and power tools.)
My first order of business is to round all the edges on a butcher block. I’ve run some practice boards and can’t quite get it right.
Does anyone have any tips on how to set-up the table, bit height, fence distance, etc. I reviewed some old articles here but didn’t find anything as simple as I’m looking for. I sort of need router in router table 101.
I’d say, height and distances are my great issues.
Any help thanks!
David
Replies
David,
For an excellent and very cheap video or DVD showing typical router table uses, get the Lee Valley instruction vid:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=41794&cat=1,43053,43885
(It's at the bottom of the page). Although it (obviously) uses a LV routing table, the techniques are mostly universal.
It would help to understand your problem better. What are it's manifestations as you route and in the routed workpiece?
Some general advice might be:
Use a false fence mounted on the real fence if possible. This allows you to push the turning bit through the back of the false fence to cut a close-fitting shroud around the bit. This means no possiblility of the workpiece tipping into a gap between fence and bit. Also, the workpiece gets the best possible guidance from the fence at the start and end of the cuts. Make sure the fence remains in line, with no "ledge" between infeed and outfeed side; or any bumps or bends in the fence. Not-straight fences will not guide the workpiece well.
Also, shroud the bit as closely as possible in the table top. If your table will take replaceable inserts, fit one to minimize the gap between the bit and the hole it pokes through in the table top. Again - it gives safety and best workpiece support. Make sure the whole caboodle is flat as ledges can interfere with the cut as they wobble the workpiece.
If your bit has a guide bearing, use that to set the bit depth out of the fence. Lay a steel ruler edge along the fence and across the bearing so all three touch and the bearing just spins if the ruler is moved. This is full-cut depth; but take two or more passes with bites of varying depth until that full depth is reached. Put some form of stop on the fence to indicate when full bite depth has been reached.
If you are routing end grain, as I assume you are with a butcher block edge, you may need to take small bites. Breakout is more likely. Sharp bit and a relatively slow feed rate will also help. The grain direction will change abruptly as you route across various blocks, and this will transmit to you as the workpiece slows or speeds up, changes the tone of the cutter-scream and so forth. Unless it's giving you an obvious "somethings wrong" message, regard this as normal for that kind of workpiece.
Try to make a smooth single pass down the fence with no stop/start and a firm, even pressure to keep the workpiece agin' the fence and on the table. Be confident and firm in your approach. If this is still difficult because of your inexperience, consider using featherboards strapped to the fence and table top to keep an even pressure. This also means you can use a push stick more easily.
To set the bit height, use some scrap of the same dimensions as your workpiece as a test piece. Use a big lump, though; don't be tempted to save wood by using a tidgy piece, which risks your fingers, snatch and so forth.
***
Tel us more detail of your problem and perhaps more specific advice will occur.
Lataxe
Thanks for this detailed answer. I think you've cleared up some questions. I'll find out for sure when I don't wreck the edge of my project.
For safety, stand in front of router table -- not at the right end (feed end). Feet apart.
If you have a problem, you are safer where if wood is thrown, it will not be AT you!
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
David,
If you;re getting a step as well as the roundover this is can usually be remedied by altering the height of the bit.
Roundover bits typically have the two parts - radius and the "ledge". Using the whole bit depth gives you the square bit on top of your surface with the round shoulder falling out and away from it to the edge of your piece.
If you lower the bit in the table so the transition between the radiused and the straight parts of the bit is just below the table, you will get just the roundover without the ledge, on your edge.
Lataxe
Thanks for the help on this. I read some good advice from you all. I know more about routers than ever before and still think I only know about 1% of what I'll need to know as I get into some other router fun and games. I do think I got the answer for the rounding and will find out this week when I round butcher block number two.So thank you all again.David
David,
Lataxe hit it on the head in his (or her) post #10. Good luck.
http://www.ithacawoodworker.com
Js,
Can I be a lady!? I understand one gets to wear lovely frocks, which has always seemed a wonderful thing to me. :-)
Lataxe, a purty lil thang.
I enjoy a frilly chiffon prom dress every now and then. It makes me feel pretty. :o
JH
http://www.ithacawoodworker.com
Lataxe, a purty lil thang.
Huh?! Since when do Brits speak with a southern drawl?
Pz,
When I am coquettish, the drawl seems to spring up from some "inner me". I have even found myself calling the ladywife "honey" in moments of vigorous passion. I blame the hollywood meme-men of the 30s, with their Scarletts and Busby Babes.
Lataxe, a cultural mess o' potage
You don't say how big of a round over you're doing. Butcher block is hard and may need to be done in several passes. I don't think Ryobi tables are very big and you may be drooping as you push the BB thru. Some things are better done w/ the router handheld and a bearing guide.
A tip to help prevent tear-out on the end grain. Start with your first pass on the end grain NOT on a long grain edge.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
"I've run some practice boards and can't quite get it right." What are the symptoms of the problem(s) -- what's "not right" about your practice boards??
Not right was that the cut looked like a round molding with a sharp edge. I think I'm a dope and I was using the wrong bit. I wanted the round without the sharp edge. That said, I don't know what the right bit would be.
DavidSL,
I don't think your very far from getting this thing right. My own experience is not too dissimilar from yours, came back 5 years ago after 25 year layoff, this sight has been a terrific resource.A router and router table is a wonderful tool, however, it only does things faster, no magic, everything it does could be done by hand. Rounding over a large panel with a router I prefer to do in hand held position. Doing it on the table requires everything be perfectly flat and in the same plane. Also, a 1/4" roundover is fairly small. Trying to take too much of a cut brings the edge into play. You may need a larger bit?
Sounds like you had the bit raised to high. Roundover's will give you a fillet as well as a round when you raise the bit up. Just make sure the bottom edge of the arc on the bit is at or below table level.
Edited: Dang, Lataxe beat me to it!!
Edited 4/22/2008 6:02 pm ET by pzaxtl
David, you have your answer in your own text: "I've run some practice boards and can't quite get it right."
Practice makes perfect. Try as many times as needed to be completely satisfied. You will build up your own experience. These tests will be your assests for ever !
Be patient.
Serge
Here are 12 router safety tips that are worth a review:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopArticle.aspx?id=26963
Matt Berger
FWW
Might also be helpful to point him to the posting of Womble's mishap with a router table. Scare the bejoobies out of anyone and make him much more cautious with power tools. It did me.
Speaking of Womble, anyone hear from him lately? Womble, how are you doing?
Edited 4/24/2008 10:21 pm ET by pzaxtl
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