Replies

1. 
   LeeEschen | Oct 21, 2002 03:49am | #1

   Happy to hear that, Nick. Enjoy the new router.

   --

   Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon

   On the Redwood Highway

2. 
   RSRose | Oct 21, 2002 04:36am | #2

   Nick,

   I took the plastic base off my router and found the metal base to be milled flat. No raised bosses. I didn't measure it with a gauge, but it's as flat as I can discern using my machinist's square on it and eyeballing. That's good enough for me.

   Put the plastic base back on, and there's a trifling out of flat area on one side. Less so than I described in my response to your other post. There must have been something under the plastic.

   I'll take the plastic base down to flatness tomorrow.

   R

3. 
   RANGERP75R | Oct 21, 2002 09:39am | #3

   Nick

      My situation turned out to be some sawdust I had not wiped off when I returned router to the phenolic base it mounts on on my table. It was between the router base and the phenolic plate when I re-attached the screws. Ha..

      Looks like alls well that ends well.....

   sarge..jt

4. 
   DennisS | Oct 22, 2002 09:03am | #4

   Nick -

   Curious; What did you use to check the squarness of the base to the collet/router body? Just a long straight bit or did you use something like a piece of 1/2" bar stock that you knew was true?

   The reason I asked is, I've never paid much attention to tuning tools until I got involved with woodworking to a little higher level. I'd like to check my router table setup to see how true the axis of the router is to the table.

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   HeidiDad | Oct 22, 2002 05:46pm | #5

   A 12" piece of 1/2" drill rod should work just fine.  A machine tool supply should have some.  I would be afraid of plain old cold roll.

2. 
   NickC | Oct 24, 2002 08:39pm | #6

   I use a centering mandrel and a gage block to see if the router will cut square to the base. I rotate the spindle by hand and check for daylight. No daylight--I'm happy! If I had seen daylight, I might have used a dial indicator to measure runout at the base and then 2 inches from the base. BTW, it's interesting to compare the depth of the hole you cut with the distance the bit extends beyond the base. Nick

5. 
   AlanTurner | Oct 25, 2002 04:16pm | #7

   Thanks for the tip.  I have the 1.75 hp 1617.  Great tool, but I had noticed (but ignored) that the base deflected a bit when only 1/4 of it was on the stock.  With your comment I removed the subbase, and the holes into which the sub-base is mounted had a 1/4" or so ring of protuding metal (1/64th or so, I guess, didn't try to measure). 

   Put a piece of 100 grit PSA on my jointer table, and ground them to flat.  No deflection now.  Thanks a barrel!