Replies

1. 
   mike4244 | Sep 28, 2002 12:27am | #1

   Sand the chair first, if you don't the irregularities will show up when you round over the edges. You say you have limited experience with a router, rounding over is easy.

   Set the base so the bearing makes contact with the wood and the depth of the cut looks right to you. Move the router counterclockwise around the chair parts. Only move the router clockwise if you are routing inside curves.To simplify this , if you were routing a doughnut shaped piece you would move the router clockwise on the inside of the doughnut. Counterclockwise on the outside of the doughnut.

   If the router is in a table , then move the pieces from right to left.

   Good luck ,   Mike

1. 
   wanda20011 | Sep 29, 2002 02:47am | #4

   Hi Mike,

   Thanks for the tips. Just curious but do you have a shopmade router table or a store bought one? I'm thinking of building a very simple shopmade table. One that I can  clamp onto my workbench. I got the idea from a woodworking book. Only problem is I need to find some scraps of plywood. I'd also need 1/4 inch hardboard for othe top layer. Looks like a good project. They even show you how to make a very simplistic fence out of a 2X4. Well if this table will do the job why spend a bundle on a store bought router table. When I finish the chair I'm building I might just build that router table. I suppose I could just as easily build a free standing router table ( one with 4 legs..)  to fit onto the side of my table saw for the same amt of money. That way I'd be saving precious space. Anyways I've got my work cut out for me. Hope I don't run into any problems fitting the diagonal legs of my chair to the front seat brace. Both ends of the diagonal legs are cut at a 25º angle. I just pray they fit together the way they are supposed to. Next time I decide to build something I'm going to buy a plans that come with a full size pattern. The pattern was too small to enlarge on a photocopy machine so I had to enlarge the pattern myself using a 1 inch grid system. Some of those curves were difficult to copy. I'm in trouble if the front seat slats don't sit properly on the diagonal legs. Time will tell.

   Wanda

1. 
   AJinNZ | Sep 29, 2002 02:29pm | #5

   What you suggested about using a straight edge clamped to the wood you want machined will work very well. That is essentially what you do when routing using a pattern. The main difference being that end grain grabs more and tear out is more likely.

   The round over bit isnt so much ''safe'', as easier.  To be cautious of a power tool is a good thing. Accidents happen when you get casual. Trust me I know. <G>

   Use you router, it will save you a heap of work, just be careful. if you dont feel happy about a certain aspect, dont do it.

   One way to get life sized plans is to photocopy it in sections, then tape them together to get the whole thing. make a master pattern from ply or hardboard from that.

    

   Wood Hoon

2. 
   AJinNZ | Sep 28, 2002 12:32am | #2

   Hi Wanda, I have made a good few chairs very similar to yours and use much the same technique.

   I found that if you round over the edges without smoothing out the bumps, the router will follow all the irregularities and transfer those to the rounded edge.

   The extent to how much depends on how bumpy the cut line is. Some of mine had a knot hole or similar and it didnt look awful.

   I dont have a bandsaw, so I cut mine with a jigsaw, then used a pattern cutting bit in a router table to machine it to a smooth surface. Plus, all the bits were the same. I did this by first making a piece, sanding it smooth and to the shape I wanted. This was the master pattern. Screw that to the underside of the bit you want to make and run it past the pattern cutter.

   Unscrew and rout the round overs. I used a bearing guide bit. Doing the same step on all bits before changing router cutters saves loads of time.

   Now for the tricky part. .......it helps a LOT to cut as close as possible to the line, so the pattern bit doesnt have to remove a lot of material. way less tearout then. On the other hand you need to leave some wood in order to get a uniform edge.

   Pattern cutting bits come in top bearing and bottom bearing bits. I have the top bearing type and think the bottom bearing one would be safer for this.

   This type of router cutter scares me silly at times. you must be careful. it has a nasty tendency to grap violently if you try to take off too much at once, So, take note of where the thing will pull to and keep your fingers well out of the way. Best thing would be a jig with large grab handles well out of range. Cutting end grain is the worst. The round over bit by comparrison is as easy as it gets.

   hope this helps. email me if you want  to.

    

   Wood Hoon

1. 
   wanda20011 | Sep 29, 2002 02:24am | #3

   Hi,

   Thanks for all the info. I probably should't have cut all the pieces out using a defective bandsaw blade. My uncle's bandsaw blade broke and I  had to use the spare blade that was in his workshop. Let's just say it wasn't very sharp. Unfortunately I don't own a beltsander or oscillating sander. :( So I had to use a block sander instead to sand the edges. You can still see the "ripples" left by the bandsaw blade.

   I have sanded all the edges and faces of my project. But after reading your post I don't think it would be a good idea to use the roundover bit. Unless I use a 1/4 inch bottom guided trimmer bit first. I was thinking of clamping the long arm pieces on top of a straightedge...with the arm piece (on top) overhanging the straightedge by a fraction. The trimmer bit would then be following along a perfect straight edge. Would that work? I figure if routers can be used for jointing I guess I can  trim the edges of my arm pieces smooth and then use the roundover bit.  Sure would be nice to have access to a jointer and planer. The wood I'm using has a real tendency to warp.  So much for buying s4s dimentional lumber!  My God! The cutter knives on the jointer must have been blunt. LOL  Better to buy lumber and mill it yourself.  I think the 3rd most important machine in the workshop is the Jointer and 4th.... planer.

   Is the trimmer bit that dangerous? Yikes! If I had a beltsander I could sand the edges smooth then round over the edges using the roundover bit and avoid using the trimmer bit.  It's good to know that the roundover bit is easy and safe to use. :)

   If I ever get around to it I've got to find some scraps of plywood and make myself a T-Square guide for the router. I need to get into the workshop and start using my router. Problem is I'm half afraid of it. A router bit  spinning   approx. 28,000 rpm can pose a  real danger! YOu have to know what your doing.

   Wanda

3. 
   JOEJOHNY | Oct 01, 2002 05:48am | #6

   I like to sand after routing the roundover profile.  Even after the roundover, there still might be a tiny edge left over where the curve starts on the profiled edge.  I like to run a bit of 220 grit over this edge once or twice for a near perfect curve.