Replies

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Feb 07, 2006 06:01pm | #1

   If it was me, I'd use a 1/2", up spiral bit with a template and guide. Make the cut in about 1/2" passes.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

2. 
   clarence_dad | Feb 07, 2006 06:44pm | #2

   Mike,
   Thanks for your response. I saw that Eagle America has a Solid Carbide
   Spiral Bit, Up cut bit. It is 3" long, 1/2" cutting width, and 1 1/2" cutter length. Does this fit the bill?
   I would set up a square template that the outer edge of the router plate would stop against, as this bit doesn't have a guide.
   Any feedback would be great.

   Thanks,

   John

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Feb 14, 2006 04:00pm | #8

   (Sorry for the late response - didn't see your post until now.)

   I'm not sure I agree with the other posters regarding going deeper than the cutting flute. If you were cutting a mortise the same width as your bit, I'd agree. However, you want a 3/4" mortise and I suggested a 1/2" bit. That gives plenty of room for chip clearance and, if you make your cut in 1/2" passes, the shank is never really an issue. This is essentially how I have done through-mortises for making entry doors, mortising from both sides and then drilling out the middle section that's too deep for the bit. I find it's more accurate than a hollow chisel mortiser - mine tends to drift "a bit". ;- (

   If you use a template and guide bushing, the whole deal would be pretty quick and accurate.  Forstner bit in a drill press, with cleanup by hand, would work equally well, but I gathered from your post that you wanted to use your router (and I don't know if you have a drill press). If you only had one or two mortises to make, I'd go with drilling and cleanup. If you have a bunch to make, the time to make a template would be offset by the time saved by not having to do cleanup.

   Or, you could have some REAL fun and do the whole thing with hand tools!

   Let us know how you tackle this one.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   clarence_dad | Feb 14, 2006 05:07pm | #9

   Mike,
   Thanks for your response. I have eight mortises to make of the same size and depth. I am planning to make a jig that holds the board (bedposts). It would be a four sided fence that the outer edge of the router base would bump up against. I would make the size of the fence the size of the desired mortise plus the size of the router base. I did purchase the 1/2" upcut spiral bit from Eagle. I think that 1/2" cuts in each pass should work. I could then square out the corners with a chisel. I have testing making the tenons on my router table, which seems to be precise and clean. The bed rails are 88" long, so I can't put them in the table saw vertically. I am butting my router table up against my 16' workbench (made them the same height out of mdf and formica) so I have lots of support.
   Any feedback on this would be great.Thanks,John

1. 
   K1500 | Feb 15, 2006 07:29pm | #10

   I just mortised a headboard/footboard to accept the rails about a month ago.  I would use a 1/2 inch straight bit and use a template with a guide bushing.  You can make the template out of MDF, PB, or Ply.  When you make it, you have to make the 'mortise' wider and taller by the offset of the bushing (OD of bushing - bit diameter).<!----><!----><!---->

   The way I made the template was to cut a piece of ply/MDF in a rectangle and lay out the pattern in the middle.  I used my table saw to plunge cut the long sides (that way they were parallel and I could use the fence scale to measure the width).  Then I cut the short ends square with a jig saw.  The cut on the long end extend beyond the short ends, but that's o.k.  If you are uncomfortable using the TS to plunge cut, use a jig saw or router/straight edge to make the template.  The process sounds hard, but making the template literally took less time than it took to type this post.<!----><!---->

   In use, you simply layout the mortise on the bedpost oversized, lay the template over it and clamp it down.  Rout the mortise in a series of passes with the guide bushing.  Make sure the base plate/guide bushing is centered on the router.  To go deep, Bosch makes 2" and 2.5" cutting surface 1/2 inch straight bits in stock at most Lowe’s.  <!----><!---->

   I have attempted to attach a drawing.  The gray area is the ‘mortise’ that the router guide bushing rides on and is oversized to accommodate the offset the bushing makes.<!----><!---->

   Good Luck.

   Woops, I just noticed they were 3/4" square.  The template would work for that as well, just scale it to fit your needs (but don't discount the 3/4" drill/chisel method).  Any router method will (of course) leave a rounded mortise which you will have to either square or round your tenons to fit.

    

   Edited 2/15/2006 11:32 am ET by K1500

   
3. 
   charlesm | Feb 07, 2006 10:47pm | #3

   If you need a 3/4" by 3/4" square mortise that is 2" deep I recommend a 3/4" forstner bit and a drill press, then square with a chisel.

   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

4. 
   Routerman | Feb 11, 2006 06:05pm | #4

   Due to the grinding schedule in solid carbide tool bits, you can't plunge beyond the flute length dimension. If you do you will burn the shank and the work, and there are other risks.

   To cut to 2" use at least a 2" flute. And may I add, cutting a tight mortice to one cutter diameter, will be technique sensitive, the chip will clog, the setup critical. I would drill or use a square chiseled morticer.

   Routers

1. 
   John_D | Feb 11, 2006 10:52pm | #5

   You can plunge deeper if the cutting surface has a wider radius than the shaft...My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

1. 
   Routerman | Feb 12, 2006 02:10am | #6

   Not in solid carbide. There is no solid carbide cutter (for consumer use) that has a CD> the shank diameter. That is why they always burn up when the flute length is exceeded.

   Routers

1. 
   John_D | Feb 12, 2006 03:49am | #7

   Makes sense, thanks!My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

5. 
   Steinmetz | Feb 16, 2006 08:36am | #11

   clarance, For years, I cut and fitted and installed hardwood entry doors and used my router and templates to mortise the doors for cylinder locks. The 1/2" carbide tipped bits were 4" long and penetrated 3+"

   I didn't have a plunge router then, but I mortised the doors in increments. Those Router bits lasted many years and (locks)without any appreciable wear. The 'business' end of the bit had three carbide blades The third is positioned at and across the center line and makes for chatter less and smooth entry while plunging.

   I usually bought all my router bits from a Bosch dealer and for the money, they were worth every cent. I still have many that I use occasionally. Steinmetz.