Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Jan 21, 2012 02:22am | #1

   You may want to think about a panel raiser with a back cutter. This limits incremental cuts to moving the fence. Sometimes, it's better to raise the bit a little at a time. If you have any burning, tear out or a bauble when feeding, you can always raise the cutter, skim the problem and make a save. Raising a panel cutter with a back cutter will effect the fit of the tongue. The work is essentially captured between two cutters so there is double the chance of a problem.  Making the back cut separately does require an additional operation. Obviously, arched panels where you use a starting pin without a fence can't be cut incrementally without raising the bit. An advantage to the combo type bits are if your panels vary in thickness, the tongue will be the same size regardless but this is seldom an issue since panels don't fit tight in the groove.

   Freud bits are pretty nice for the money, so are many others. I have no complaints about some MCLS bits I have, lots of panel profiles, and I have quite a few from Rockler, they are having a sale right now. My own door sets are Amana and CMT. They are more expensive. The stile and rail cutters can be shimmed for a perfect fit and the carbide is thicker, meaning more sharpenings over the life of the bits, nice wooden boxes, too.

1. 
   maama | Jan 21, 2012 07:56pm | #8

   cabinetry bits

   Thanks to all for the info.  Iam using a router table with a variable speed router.  I just looked at the MCLS bits and they have a 6 piece pro cabinetmaker set for 120.00  It is on sale till the end of January, so I bought the set. Hopefully they will last me a long while. This will be the first time Iam making cabinets.  So for so good.

2. 
   Westchester | Jan 21, 2012 08:22am | #2

   Raised Panel

   Look at molding head cutters for the table saw - definitely cheaper than router bits - 

   SA

1. 
   Mcfarmer | Jan 21, 2012 09:56am | #4

   I used a molding head for years, and had good luck with it. I see there are companies still making the cutters, and have some good shapes.

   Off topic I know, but am I the last one to realize how the old Craftsman molding cutters make really good profile scrapers, especially when taking off old finish ? There's one to match any profile.

2. 
   hammer1 | Jan 21, 2012 10:06am | #5

   SA, you have table saw molding cutters for rail and stile work, cope and bead? Also for Ogee raised panels? Where did you find those?

1. 
   Westchester | Jan 21, 2012 04:15pm | #7

   Cutters

   Hammer

   I can't do anything near what the fancy router bits do but with the molding cutters  I have a set of about 20 profiles I got from Brewers in Mamaroneck  years ago - very cheap - no one was buying them except me.  A simple raised panel - no problem and poster was asking for inexpensive.  I also have one profile made for me when a had to match a run of moldings one time. 

   Not the cure all but an alternative -

   SA

3. 
   bones | Jan 21, 2012 09:53am | #3

   You asked quite a loaded question.  I assume you are doing some raised panels.  I'd say the right bit depends on what you have to drive it.   As far as bits go, I prefer whiteside bits there are others for sure.  I'm taking for granted you are using this in a router table and not attempting to use in a hand held router.   I prefer the combo panel cutter and back cutter in a single bit so I can save a step.   I have a big router in a table so it's not an issue.   

   Here is one source there are many I just had them bookmarked.   

   http://www.woodpeck.com/whitesideraisedpanel.html

   BTW please remember speeds for bits of this size need to be run slower!  Refer to mfg's directions they will indicate the speed required.  Some folks assume all bits run at the fastest speed you can spin it and that can be dangerous.   

4. 
   BruceS | Jan 21, 2012 10:11am | #6

   Backcutter

   Like Hammer,  I also prefer not to use a back cutter combo bit. !   My preference is to plane the panels about 1/8" thinner than the stiles and rails .   Run the stick bit to the profile you like( depth of the top step) and then adjust thickness of panel lumber where you need it to be,  measuring from the bottom of the grove to the top of the stock or more if you want the panel proud of the S/R surface.

   No backcutter needed.    It also gives you a lighter panel.