Replies

1. 
   KeithNewton | Feb 07, 2005 02:05am | #1

   It is probably metric. 20 mm = .787

2. 
   jako17 | Feb 07, 2005 07:14am | #2

   Hi FG  Don't worry about the 2 thou. Worry about setting it concentric with the bit.When you make a template, base it on the actual size of the bushing and write that on the template for future use.Remember any size of bushing works as long as it resolves the shape of the template and that the bit will go through it.Glad to see you are going that route to mass production!!!

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 07, 2005 07:27pm | #4

   Hi guys.  OK, the info about the wall being thicker on the bigger bushing makes sense to me.  I understand about simply making the template the appropriate "offset" bigger than the object.  What makes this project a bit different is that I'm using one bushing to run a 1/8" periphery around the outside, and then a different bushing with a 1/2" bit to hog out the whole thing, including the 1/8" peripheral groove so I'm trying to get the outside edge of the two to match.  Haven't actually laid bit to wood yet, so the question was hypothetical.

   Metric/standard isn't a factor.  The markings on all bushing sets I've seen are in standard.

   Thanks!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   jako17 | Feb 07, 2005 08:19pm | #5

   If I am right you are using the 1/8 bit to define tthe corners .One problem may be changing bushings and getting concentricity .How about just using the larger bushing and a fit in reducing window for the template

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 08, 2005 01:34am | #7

   Hi Jako.  I just got back in from running the first two tries, worked out pretty well.  The reducing-template is Plan B.  Who knows, it may become Plan A if it takes less time.  As mentioned before, this is my first attempt at template routing, so I'm rockin' with the waves a bit while I figure out what's what.

   Gotta say, though, it seems like a real fun way to go when making multiples.  The router runs so smoothly around that template!

   My second attempt was with a slightly larger 2nd bushing (for the 1/2" bit).  That makes the cut overlap the 1/8" cut just a tad, rather than going all the way to the edge.  As long as I can get the depths perfectly identical, that seems like it will work out well.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   jako17 | Feb 08, 2005 02:29am | #9

   Glad you  are making progress.Try making some form of depth gauge in the side of a bit of hardwood so you can set the depth consistantly between bits

3. 
   hammer1 | Feb 07, 2005 04:33pm | #3

   The bushings are sized to accommodate the router bit on the inside diameter. They have to be larger so the bit doesn't hit. The larger the bit, the heavier the template guide side walls. The outside diameter has nothing to do with anything unless it has to fit in a special template, like a dovetail fixture. Chances are you won't be using a 3/4" template guide in one of those. You just size your templates according to the bit and the guide. Nothing says you have to use a 3/4" bit in a 3/4" template guide, after a few sharpening's, 3/4" bits may no longer be 3/4" anyway. The important part is that the guide is centered around the bit. It's always best to make a practice cut to check the distance from the guide to the bit and to size the templates accordingly.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

4. 
   Sphere | Feb 07, 2005 11:49pm | #6

   Have you considered top BEARING bits instead of bushings? They are sweet.

   But to answer your question..yes, there is slop in some of the bushings..I had some I re-turned to dial them in. Put to the lathe and scrape a little bit, or use a file. A drill press would work in a pinch , Ya need to sandwich the bushing on a bolt with nuts and washers..get it snug, chuck the end in the DP, and use a file to shave down the OD..washer and all. The head end of the bolt will be exposed obviously.

   It won't take much.

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "I've..seen all good people turn thier heads, so, satisfied, I am on my way.."They kill prophets for profits"..And, that's...the truth.........phhatt

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 08, 2005 01:39am | #8

   Hi Sphere.  The top-mounted bearing won't work in this instance, as I'm making a very shallow (1/8") recess in my stock.  Going around the periphery with a 1/8" bit to get small-radius corners, and then hogging out the rest with a 1/2" mortising bit.

   Thanks for chippin' in here though!  If I need to, I'll follow your instructions on reducing the OD on that one bushing.

   YIPPEE, I have today and tomorrow off, it's sunny (and cool) outside, and I get to play in the shop.  (Had jury duty today, but no jury was called, so I'm a happy camper....)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)