Hi all,
I’m looking to get a router that will spend most of its time in a table, but I also will need to use it as a plunge router, primarily to cut mortises.
The first big project I’ll be doing is exterior shutters and I am thinking about raised panels. Will a 2 1/4 HP handle a large bit, or do I need something w/ 3+ HP?
It won’t see lots of duty, but I want something that is gonna last and be versatile. I have looked at a lot of the posts on routers, but I’m mostly interested in the HP issue.
thanks, Jake
Replies
Jake,
My first thought is the PC 890 combo, though I don't know what the rated hp is. That said, I think another important consideration should be whether the router has a fixed or variable speed. I'd opt for the variable if the price differential weren't too dear. Again, not sure if the 890 features that, but it's worth looking into.
Good luck,
Mitch
"I'm always humbled by how much I DON'T know..."
If you don't already have a router I'd recomend a combo set, most are around 1 3/4 or 2 HP. Look at the amps drawn not just the HP rating. If you already have a midsized router get a 3 HP monster, like the PC 7716 motor, and a lift. You'll never regret it if you are making doors. I've never needed more than a mid sized router for mortices. You are usually using smaller bits like 3/8".
Mike
Friend,
Mortises can readily and very well be cut with a table-mounted router and a fence.
-mbl-
"Mortises can readily and very well be cut with a table-mounted router and a fence."
What is the technique for doing this in regards to:
1. centering stock accurately
2. mounting stops
3. how many passes and is it a matter of simply make a pass, remove stock raise bit, make another pass, and repeat until done?
Any other details or links would be helpful.
Dear flamedmaple,This comment is somewhat specific (but not limitted to) a router which can uses the table saw fence, which allows to quick setting of the fence, and this is done so here.All the mortises are cut at the center of the workpiece, so a center-line is scribed on the target piece tip. There are scriber jigs very easy to make to center line them. A line is drawn or scribed on the table saw which follows the center-line of the bit in the router. Here, it is permanently scribed.The bit is solid carbide, say 1/4 and the one thing to do is to rock-plunge the piece into the bit AND START THE FIRST such plunge not at exactly the beginning of the mortise but away (towards the center of it) then when keep rock plunging till most material is removed. The final cut is done with simple slide forward or backward motion. The piece is leaning into the fence for alignment all the time. Another tip is: Use a self-clamping guide that is clamped so as to sandwich the workpiece between the fence and that guide. That provides almost fool-proof results and a VERY HIGH safety, for the bit is always hidden by the work piece and the workpiece can not dislodge (it's in between TWO guides) Of course any straight piece of wood or other material can be used.It of course can be also done in a typical router fence. Scribe VERY CAREFULLY the center-line ON the surface of the table and match it to the center-line of the target piece.In short:1. Center-line scribed on table matches center-line of work-pice2. Workpiece is guided by TWO means, usual fence and an extra clamped guide.3. Plunge cut, not to full depth, using lift-and-release of the target piece GRADUALLY (some rocking plunge-motion). Don't force too much cut, do several passes. Do not start at the limits, but short of them, and finish to the limits lastly and lightly.4. Also, mark with pencil, or scribe, two VERTICAL lines of representing the router bit body, so one knows when to stop at each end, which will be when those lines match the limits of the mortise, which, of course, are also marked on the target piece.This method is much more effective than the usually adviced router-in hands methods, would say.The other thing, is tennons are cut to standard router widths, to match.Best of all.-mbl-
MBL IS SO EXPRESSIVE BUT good advice!
If the router's main home will be a table I would suggest a large HP one, because, well, why not. If you don't have to lug it around, then why not have the reserve power in case you ever need it. Personally I have a Freud FT2000ep 3.25 HP living in my table. It's a big nasty router, fairly difficult to use by hand, but it is variable speed, has soft start, and more power than I will ever require. Also the Freud has a nice long collet (though if you buy one (amazon.com has a good price) be sure that the collet is snapped into the nut before tightening or your bit won't fit right and you'll snap the collet). I'm sure the PCs are a bit nicer and have more accessories, but I'm happy with my Freud. Just my 2 cents.
-Art K
I too own a freud router,and it is a sturdy machine(not many people talk about it so its good to hear from another owner),my only concern with that machine is how the brushes apply presure with its coil spring if you havent seen it take a look and youll see what I mean,all in all a very good machine.Cheers.
Go with the 3 1/2HP variable speed Porter Cable.
A great choice would be the Bosch 1617EVSPK kit. It's a 2.25hp machine. You can use the fixed base for table mounting and the plunge base for hand-held operations. I recently upgraded my table router to a Hitachi M12V, 3.25hp unit, but had done a lot of raised panels with the 1617 in prior years.
Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
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Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
I read a lot of reviews at Amazon about big(3+hp) routers. I ordered the Bosch last night. You can get a 3 1/4 hp cheaper but you can end up with a lot of greif. Spend the extra money , get the Bosch or PC.
More on this.
For what its work I have a Dewalt 625 3 hp model in my router table and it seems to work just fine (low vibration, plenty of power and a soft start motor) I do wish it had a bit (pun intended) more depth capacity on the plunge feature.
Be careful about the 89* series Porter Cables. I have two and probably wouldn't buy them again. I had years of professional experience with the 690 series in Multi-Router and hand use and so when it came time to outfit my shop I bought the 890's when they came out. Thought PC had just improved the 690, but it seems they totally reengineered the wheel. Tried to do too much and it is a little chintzy in some of its mechanisms and it has this trait of the collet getting too hot to touch after running for any length of time.I went round and round with Porter Cable and their position is its supposed to work that way. Their bearings are very precise and have close tolerances so they get hot during use. Yeah, that is the official company line. Anyway the idea was great with the 890's but I would look at the Dewalt combo or Bosch. I am using the 890's and can't report significant issues other than the collets have to installed very carefully or there is enough runout to cause scalloping. I just made reference marks and make sure they are aligned every installation.They may have gotten the bugs out of the 890's by now but they are far from cheap so just be aware. I never had any issues with the 690's or 7500 series, those were workhorses and very reliable. I also have the Dewalt smaller plunge router and think it is a great tool. Really comfortable for a plunger.
I read with great interest your comments on your newer P-C routers. I have a 7301 that I use for light work round-overs etc. and have the same problem it will get so hot I can barely hang onto it.My father was in the bearing business and would have been rolling on the floor at the "precision bearing" argument. I have several P-C,s and have just emailed P-C telling them that if I had a boat there tools would make a good start on a new anchor. I don't expect them to reply. I feel P-C is going the same way B&D did in the seventies, just riding a good name. I don't know about your router but can tell you mine takes standard off the shelf NTN bearings. My suspicion is that the housing is not machined true or that the bearing is simply wrong for the application. I'm sure it was engineered, but was it made to last? Way back when a guy got into business because he could make a better mouse trap now I get the impression that most of them don't know jack about tools, but they all have degree's in marketing!. Good luck and have fun!
Edited 3/27/2005 12:36 pm ET by dic
Another vote for the Freud... built like a brick outhaus, proper click-on click-off power switch negates the need for a jury rig, loadsa power, loadsa control and enough change to get some nice bit sets too....
I've one premanently in my router table, another to back it up or use hand held...
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Watch for those brush coil springs.Cheers.
Jake, Go on and get a 3 HP. You will be glad you did later on. Whenever you get into bigger cutters, the extra torque will be there when you need it.
Gee.. Me in trouble here again..
I have a PC with three different bases.. Good router but I hardly ever use it..
I had two, now three 2 HP Ryobi plunge routers (1/2 and 1/4 chuck.).... About $99.00?..
No production shop here but used often.. I have used a 2 3/4 inch dia Lock Miter bit in it.. (1/2 inch shank Whiteside) many, many times.. (OK I take it slow) Oak, Plywood, MDF (what a mess!).
I think the three Ryobi cost less than the PC.... Or about the cost of it..
Put my vote in for the Makita 3600 I've owned mine for 15 years and my brother has my fathers old 3600 which is 30 years old both have seen normal "home use" and both still work like they did when they were new the older one has had the brushes replaced once. They may not have all the fancy new features like soft start, but if you want a reliable work horse. Have fun! Murray
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