I’m getting ready to redo my router table, and this time make sure that sucker is dead flat using some 1″ thick slate I was able to salvage. While I am at it, I want to redo how I mount my router horizontally. I like to use vertical panel raising bits with the router mounted horizontally – gives me lots of control, makes gravity work for me, and I can keep my fingers well away from the bit. I would like to mount the router on a piece of slate, because I am tired of dealing with flex. However, if I do that, I think I will need to invest in a collet extension. So here’s my question – is flex ( runout) an issue with a collet extension? I read an on line review exerpt at the MLCS website that stated that the runout was measured at .006, and that seems like it would be okay, but I would like to hear some real world opinions.
Thanks in advance.
Barry
Replies
Is the .006" runout on the collet extension only? If so, then you would have to account for the router runout as well. Any amount of runout on the router may magnify the .006" into an unacceptable figure.
Thanks. You have hit on exactly the point. In the exerpt it states that the router contributed less than .001. While I have not measured my router's run out, it's performance has been acceptable and it is not that old. I would like to know what people have actually experienced in putting a collet extender on their router, using it multiple times rather than a magazine test which was probably limited.
I wouldn't recommend a router extension for large diameter or long bits, they may not be dangerous but there is definitely extra vibration. If you are willing to invest in a new router consider buying a Porter Cable, the nose on the PC's extends quite far past the base compared to most other brands.
John W.
I use the router collet extension from MLCS only when necessary. I haven't personally had any problems, but your concern over runout is a justified one. A wise man once said the more parts, the more error and I have to agree. Though I still use it when I need to.
-Art
If I were going to use ANY collet extention,I would definitely use a variable speed motor unit. When the cutting edge is distant from the bearings,it can be downright scary.This is the reason that I do not use a plunge router in my router table.
Work safely¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
Sounds like you've got the top from an old pool table. Remember, slate is fragile like glass. If you tighten the router base screws just a 'bit too snug', you're liable to crack the 'top' surface. The top may be 'dead flat', but is the bottom 'dead parallel' to the top??
I'd check the router mounting screws frequently until I'm sure that the slight vibration from the router does not loosen them. Let us know how this idea works out
SawdustSteve
Johnw, Art and Pat - Thank you for your replies. You've made me realize that once again I am trying to cheap out, which is why I am having to rebuild this table in the first place. I just need to build my existing design the way I should have in the first place, it will be fine, and I will not need to fool with a collet extension. Your replies also made me realize that I would be operating the router in the "margins". If I didn't learn anything else in my 30 plus years as an engineer, it is that while you can safely operate equipment in the margins, extra vigilance is needed and not a place you should go unless there are compelling reasons. In this case there isn't, like I said, I was trying to cheap out again.
Sawdust Steve - Thanks for your reply also. Actually the slate is 1927 vintage toilet partitions, some of them 4 1/2 ft by 8 1/2 ft. A few more inches and I could have built the worlds heaviest ping pong tables :^) In a way it is a shame to saw up such large pieces of stone, but it was a real exercise in rigging to unload them, one I do not care to repeat. You make a good point about attaching the router. For the vertical position I was not planning on attaching the router directly to the slate, and in fact I am not sure I am going to make provision for vetical attachment. I have an old Sears shaper that I prefer to use if I need profiles with a vertical orientation on the bit. However, I was planning to direct attach the router to the slate on the horizontal, which I have now concluded is not one of my better ideas. I could put a panel raising bit on the shaper, but it was clearly not designed for a large diameter panel raising bit. Even though my father in law has an identical shaper with a large panel raising bit, which he has used very sucessfully and he has forgotten more than I will ever know about woodworking, that is not a place I am going to go.
Again - thanks to all
Barry
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