I’m sure this topic’s been beaten to death. I have a Freud router table that came with a 3-1/4hp Freud router. I got the whole shootin’ match at Lowe’s on closeout for $150. I’m reasonably happy with the table, but the router drives me nuts and I want to replace it. I’d like to find one that lets me change bits above the table and lets me make adjustments above the table and is 3-1/4HP. At first glance it looks like the Triton offers this, but it appears the 3-1/4HP model doesn’t offer the above the table adjustment feature. Also, as I understand it, it requires that you turn it off to lock the shaft and the switch is on the router under the table, so you’re under the table anyway. Are there others?
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
There is an Australian company named Triton. They make a 2hp router which is perfect for in table use. It was reviewed in FW about 1 year ago and was the editor pick. I bought it and it is great. Best about it is a built in winding stick that allows you to adjust height while mounted in the table, in other words a built in router raiser. You can also change bits while the machine is still mounted. Finally the price is very reasonable. I highly recommend it.
Quick......... If the switch is a problem, you can wire it thru a switch on the front of your table???
James
The FT3000VCE uses the same mounting holes as the one you have (albeit with the addition of two holes) and offers above table bit changes, above table height adjustment and is 3-1/4HP:
http://www.freudtools.com/p-261-ft3000vce-3-14-hp-variable-speed-plunge-router.aspx
Or you could get an aftermarket lift kit and bent wrench for the router you already own.
Freud America, Inc.
Thanks for the tip on the Freud FT3000VCE. It looks like it may be the ticket. I've already got a bent wrench for my router, but the collet doesn't come high enough to reach from above. When you say the FT3000VCE uses the same mounting holes albeit with the addition of two new holes, are you saying that the FT3000VCE has five mounting screws?
The FT3000VCE has three mounting holes that are the same as the FT2000E and FT2200E. The additional two holes you would need to drill are for the above table height adjust and shaft lock.
Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
I don't know what ya'll think of John Lucas, but I've been reading a lot of his stuff over at woodshopdemos.com and he just swears by the Triton for router table applications. Of course if I had major tool companies sending me truckloads of free tools every week to "evaluate"...I'm sure I'd talk it up pretty good, too. (just my 2 senses)
Harry
Harry,I read the Finewoodworking article reviewing table mounted routers last year and bought the Triton based on the strong review FW gave it. Its a fantastic tool! The price is very low considering what you are getting. In fact almost any router raiser kit costs more than the Triton router and is less precise. I would highly recommend this tool and I can assure you nobody is sending me any free anything. FYI it took me almost 9 months to actually get the router because demand was so strong, not a bad sign.
Why do you need a 3.25? I would challenge any arguement that one is needed for panel making - as that seems to be the typical "why" response. Unless you are a production woodworking, a 2 1/2 will do any job in a table. With that said...the best overall, is Triton.
Quick,
Just a couple of points you may find useful.
First, you are correct with regard to your perceptions about making adjustments to the Triton 3.25, your hands do need to go under the table. If you can't do that, move on find another router, however, as far as being complicated or difficult, it's on the same level as peeing at a urinal..the hands quickly know.
Secondly, I think all routers need to be turned on and that means going under the table. This can be avoided by rewiring or (as I do) use a power strip with an on/off switch. The strip also starts the vac at the same time.
Third, when the Triton appeared several years ago its design for under table use was clearly superior. I finally bought one 18 months ago for about $210. I'm not in the market for a router so I don't know what is out there now, however, I'm sure there are many routers now that are just as good and maybe better We may not know if the other models are better for another year. You can be sure however, in this competitive market, manufacturers are keenly aware and know they need to be better to survive.
From what I understand, the shaft lock on the Triton won't work if you leave the router switch on and use an external switch. I'm currently set up with an external switch as well as a foot switch and I want to keep using that setup. I'd like to avoid reaching under the table to engage the switch to use the shaft lock.
Quickstep,
The toggle switch on the router has a cover over it that stays open when in the on position and closed when in the off position..so you can't accidentally turn the router on. I plug my router into the power strip, set the toggle switch to on and use the switch on the power strip all day long. When I want to change a bit I hit the toggle switch, that closes the cover, crank with my right hand the bit holder above the table, change bits, lower back down, reset toggle switch ...and I'm good to go. I don't think it takes more than a minute.When you say you use an external switch I'm not sure what that means...but if that switch controls power on/off I would think it would work?
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled