Replies

1. 
   DougU | Jan 29, 2005 07:07am | #1

   doc

   I have the 7518 for my router table and I also have the large Bosch plunge router(cant come up with the no. right now) I have never needed the plunge for the table.

   The reason that I use the 7518 is because of the power, cant beat it.

   If I need to run some small profiles I will just cut a hole in a piece of plywood and screw one of my 690's to the bottom and make a quick fence and go to town. I only do this if I don't want to take down what's currently in the 7518.

   Doug

2. 
   hammer1 | Jan 29, 2005 10:01am | #2

   The big PC is the Cadillac. If you can drill a couple of holes in a piece of wood, I would not spend any money on a table or fence, put it in the router and bits. The PC has variable speeds and electronic speed control. Unless you encase the router in an unaccessible box, I don't see the need for a lift. Changing bits above the table can be done with a no wrench collet, you'll have to buy one separately. Just reach under the table for making depth adjustments. It puts your eye right at the table level for easy sighting in. You won't be able to use a lift if you have featherboards or other accessories clamped to the table top covering the hole.

   When using a fence, it is safer to have a close to zero clearance around the bit. Making a few of your own fences will accomplish this. I took a few pictures of one of my router tables to show on your last post, but lost track of it. When I make a table top, I crown it up just slightly, you don't want a dip in it. I make mine with a 1x3 frame and hand plane or sand the cross members, to get a 1/16" +- crown. I just use a piece of melamine or a sink cutout from a formica countertop, for the top surface. All you have to do is drill some holes to fit the router base. If you want, you can rout in one of those drop in plates, which will make removing the router and changing bits a breeze.

   The pictures below show one of my tables that is attached to a table saw. I could put legs on it just as easy. I used some cheap vacuum fittings for dust collection, I also have a hose underneath, I just have to remember to turn on the collector. I mounted a simple switched outlet box to plug into, so I don't have to reach under the table for on off. There is a small piece that I had to rout in the picture, along with the scrap block I used as a back up on the short cut, and a plywood push stick for the long cut. Router tables don't need to be complicated or expensive.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 30, 2005 05:24pm | #4

   I like what you have.. I'd suggest a base with a 'U' for biggest cutter you use.. Make four or more perfect 45 degree braces attached to base with mounting holes. Use MDF for the face plate(s), sacrificial fence about 6 inches high with dust port.. and save for different bits you usually use.

   Make sense?

1. 
   hammer1 | Jan 30, 2005 08:35pm | #9

   A high fence is a pain for doing 3/4" - 1 1/2" work. I use a side mounted router table instead of standing pieces up when I need to. I like power feeders too.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
3. 
   Routerman | Jan 29, 2005 09:30pm | #3

   Some information here at the Selection link.

4. 
   RANGERP75R | Jan 30, 2005 06:40pm | #5

   doc

      I chose the Milwaukee 3 1/2 over the PC cause it's got the same power and a built-on adjuster that you can use mounted under a table and adjust from above. This saves $100 plus, depending on how elite you want a lift.

      Plunge routers have their place and I have a DW 621 with a one of "router-mans" bases for those occasions when I need a hand held plunge. But if you do a lot of table work you need a fixed mounted permanently IMO.

      Tables don't have to be expensive as someone posted. My 1st TS in 72' was a circular saw mounted under a 4' x 8' piece of ply with a slot for the hollow ground blade so that is an option. An enclosed router table is nice for both saw-dust issues and to curb noise though.

      I you dicide on a table, MDF and a little laminate will get you there cheaply and a home-made fence is a plus. You can make both from scrap.

   Good luck with your decision...

   Regards...

   sarge..jt 

   Proud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

   
1. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 30, 2005 07:12pm | #6

   I like it...  really nice...

   I did this. not kocking yours but I have NO SPACE!

   Yep, I messed up one joint..  And just some filler.. Geeeeeeeeeee

   I have a PC.. Hard to change Bits..   I have three other Ryobi plunge routers.. I got three for almost the cost of the PC..  I see NO difference in the cuts..  But just me..

   Yep, I messed up one joint..  And just some filler.. Geeeeeeeeeee

   I did that hand chisel thingie...

    

   Edit again..

   Forestgirl had something with a metal plate.. LN?   I thinks I will look into..

   No so old I can't change..

    

   Edited 1/30/2005 11:18 am ET by Will George

   Edited 1/30/2005 11:21 am ET by Will George

   Edited 1/30/2005 11:40 am ET by Will George

   
1. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 01, 2005 04:09am | #11

   Will

      Just had a look at your set-up as just getting over an ice storm here in Atlanta. My TS has a set-up for the router on the RH side and if I didn't have the space I would definitely use it. Another option would be to mount the router on the top and just stand it vertical when not in use. As another poster stated, you can clamp that on saw-horses, etc. and you're in business.

      I think the bottom line is taking what you got in space and capital and making the absolute most of it. The finished product is not about who has the most elaborate shop and finest tools. Both of those assets are like water down the drain without developed skill and creativity of the craftsman who has the repsonsiblility of over-seeing them.

      In gambling, the difference between an amateur and a professional is the amateur doesn't know when to quit when either ahead or behind. In WW'ing I think the amateur will sometimes under-achieve because he doesn't have the finest available and feels it is necessary to have. A craftmans will take what he has available and get it done regardless.

   Regards...

   sarge..jtProud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 02, 2005 07:08am | #19

   LOL..........  In woodworking, the difference between an amateur and a professional is the amateur doesn't have GOOD tools and the professional has no wood scraps to work with!

   I have a vertical router set up I use. I have it on some good drawer slides and attached to the table of my old saw.. Just did not get around to making it fit on my new saw. Maybe I can't..

   I put my router there because I have a Incra with all the bells and stuff. I bolt it to the Left or Right as I use it..  No holes in the router side just now.. Another project..

   I like to roll my saw outside in the summer and suck up some SUN! Becides I got OLD eyes and sees better then!

   By the way did ya see my BUMMER tendon?  Yep, good old wood filler!

   I forgot, if not using the router I just lower the bit so not in the way!  Not that old I forget that...

   Edited 2/1/2005 11:10 pm ET by Will George

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 02, 2005 06:59pm | #21

   Will

      A lot of amateur WW's have great tools and a lot of golfers have very high-tech clubs. But neither will garner great results if the user does not master the basic fundamentals of how both evolved from simple tools to state-of-the-art. 

   Wood filler works. I have built entire rooms of furniture with nothing but wood filler. It's a great substitute for wood and it comes in all colors. ha.. ha...

   Regards...

   sarge..jtProud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   forestgirl | Feb 01, 2005 07:47pm | #14

   Mmmmmm, just re-read your post.  Not LN, LV -- Lee Valley/Veritas.  Here's the link:

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/Index.aspx?c=2&is=S

   Look under Router Table Systems.  The "Table Insert Plate" is just a round plate based on their mounting system (new and cool).  The "Router Table System" is the whole shebang (not new, but very cool).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   BarryO | Jan 31, 2005 04:36am | #10

   I chose the Milwaukee 3 1/2 over the PC cause it's got the same power and a built-on adjuster that you can use mounted under a table and adjust from above. This saves $100 plus, depending on how elite you want a lift.

   Ditto.

   Also, the Milwaukee uses the same mounting holes as the 7518, so any 7518 plate will work for it as well.  You just need to drill a hole for the adjuster wrench.

3. 
   DocXmas | Feb 01, 2005 04:37am | #12

   HAve you had any trouble with big panel raising bits.  I had just about decided on the mil when I call their customer service and they said the biggest bit you can put in it is 2.5 inches and I want to use a 3.25 inch panel raiser.

    

   Doc

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 01, 2005 06:00pm | #13

   doc

      I have never used over 2 1/4". I never thought about it and would have to go down to the shop and measure the hole in the base of the Mil. If there C/S said that, there's a reason. Either the base won't allow or they feel it would tax the router.

      My thoughts are if you are going to use that big a bit on a constant basis which you hinted at, you would be a wise to get a shaper and forget the router. The shaper fits the bill more adequately for your proposed main use.

      I could pull a large travel trailer with my pick-up, but I would be wise to get a Dual-ly or any vehicle that was designed specifically for heavy-duty loads over the long-haul.

   Regards...

   sarge..jtProud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   forestgirl | Feb 01, 2005 07:48pm | #15

   Wow, that's  a big bit.  I tend to agree with Sarge.

   Anyone out there use 3"+ bits regularly with their router?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   hammer1 | Feb 01, 2005 08:09pm | #17

   I use my panel raising bits regularly. I also have some vertical raisers but I prefer the horizontal style. Take small cuts with the big ones. There are many more profiles available in router bits than I have seen in shaper cutters, they are also less expensive.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

3. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 02, 2005 08:00am | #20

   PLEASE get a Vertical bit!  Much safer I think..

4. 
   AlanMikkelsen | Feb 02, 2005 07:52pm | #22

   I concur with the selection of the Milwaukee over the PC.  I looked at both a couple years ago, and was actually going to buy the PC until my local tool store (which sold both) sold me on the Milwaukee.  I think its a great deal and a terrific router.  Variable speed, soft start and above the table adjustment make it a lot better router.Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934,  Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 03, 2005 07:25am | #23

   Alan

      I always do a lot of digging b-4 buying and it fit the bill for me. Caught it on sale at Amazon after I chose it over the others. I run a DW 621 plunge, a Bosch 1617EV and the Mil permanently mounted. I had a Hitachi M12V under there but I gave it to my BIL and sold an older PC plunge kit.

      The Milwaukee, PC and Hitachi will all get it done in 3 + HP, but the adjuster feature saves a ton with built-in adjustment. The Hitachi is probably the best value, but it's plunge and requires mods and it helps to have the bent wrench made for it.

      The MIlwaukee is just a hoss and I would definitely buy other MIlwaukee products based on it's performance and reputation. It's a keeper for sure.

   Regards...

   sarge..jtProud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   AlanMikkelsen | Feb 03, 2005 06:24pm | #24

   I've got a couple of PC 690's for handhelds, but I keep picking up the Milwaukee 2 1/4 hp variable speed with that body grip in stores.  It feels soooo good!  I just have to work up the courage to pull out my wallet, it guess.Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934,  Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 03, 2005 07:44pm | #25

   Alan

      I've hand-held it quite a few times myself, but the discipline I've attained in RAA (Router Addicts Anonymous) has always made me put it back. :>)

   Regards...

   sarge..jtProud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

5. 
   nikkiwood | Jan 30, 2005 07:45pm | #7

   I know a lot of folks use a plunge router for a table, but I don't think they're made for that purpose.

   The PC 7518 is a great choice, but be sure to get the variable speed (imperative for large bits, like panel raisers). I think you will eventually find that a smaller router (like the PC 690) is also useful in a table -- easy to handle, not so heavy.

   You might want to consider buying a plate to which the router is mounted -- with the plate then mounted (flush) on your table. This makes it easy to lift the whole thing out for bit changes and the like.

   I use a Rousseau plate, which I like because it has three circle inserts which can be utilized according to the size of the bit you are using. Costs about $30-35. I have one for each router I use in the table.

   I think the various lift mechanisms are nifty, but if you have easy access to the router below (either an open table or a door), I think they are of marginal value. Kind of that category --"nice to have, but not essential."

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 30, 2005 07:48pm | #8

   I know a lot of folks use a plunge router for a table, but I don't think they're made for that purpose.

   I do that ALOT!.. I have no problen measuring to the bit top to the table top.. but I check my measurements ALOT!

    

6. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Feb 01, 2005 08:03pm | #16

   I use a triton router in a table, doc.

   They're more or less designed for it, and the collet comes above the table for a router bit change.

   Cheers,

   eddie

7. 
   MBL | Feb 01, 2005 08:51pm | #18

   Dear friend,

   A fixed base router beats a plunge router in stability in a router table.

   Just go ahead and analyze the area of support from one to the other. A plunge router, for instance, only locks ONE of the posts. The other post is loose. It is not acted upon by the lock lever.

   The PC 7518 beats all other fixed base routers as far as support. Its two D handles increase the support yielding a much wider apparent base.

   Plunge routers are attractive in applications such as inverted pin routers.

   Here, both types are successfully applied and these comments are based on careful study and experience.

   Hope this helps.

   -mbl-

8. 
   MikeN | Feb 04, 2005 04:14am | #26

   I use a Freud FT2000 plunge router with the springs removed.  I can change bits from above the table.  This router has power to spare, and has not given me even a moment of grief in the four or five years I've been using  it.

   Sincerely,

    

   Mike N

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 04, 2005 08:28am | #28

   Mike, did you do anything else to that FT2000?  I have one I keep threatening to put in my router table.  What about an after-market handle for the height adjustment?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

9. 
   SRToolguy | Feb 04, 2005 05:23am | #27

   Your keywords to me are "a lot of raised panels" what you consider a lot and what I am thinking may be two different things but I'm gonna jump out on a limb and suggest that you not spend a lot of money in a router table configuration and instead invest the money into a entry level shaper. I think the Delta X5 shaper is a good buy and it will allow you to venture far beyond what you would ever expect a router to do.  The model number is 43-495X if you want to shop it. One of the nice things about these shapers is that they will handle a 1/2, 3/4 and 1" spindle so you can buy your cutters at resonable off the shelf prices. It is a 230v machine so you would need to figure that out if you don't already have it available.

   But, if you're stuck on a router then the sweetheart deal is the Bosch 1617EVSK. The K is for Kit and means you get both a fixed and plunge base. Slap the fixed base in the table and leave it there. When you need the router out of the table, just decouple the base and slap it into the plunge base. This is the smoothest plunge router available in its price range.

   If bells and whistles are your thing then the Triton is definitely the coolest big plunge out there. And, if its a everything you need and nothing you don't, super high precision router, then its the Festool routers.

   O.K., now all you have to do is make up your mind... LOL..

   Sincerely;

   The Tool Guy