Replies

1. 
   esch5995 | Jan 26, 2022 01:29pm | #1

   Your Milwaukee or the Bosch would both be capable of doing the Cope & Stick cuts to make the door frames as long as they are variable speed. Where you need the extra oomph of the 3¼hp router is if you want to use larger diameter bits usually used to raise panels although I have done limited runs with a 2¼hp router years ago when that was a large router. They key is to remember as the diameter of the bit increase the router speed must decrease so always use a variable speed router in a router table.

   As for the lift just about anything JessEm makes is first rate so you can't go wrong. You may also checkout the Incra lift which is made by JessEm with only the top plate supplied by Incra but some users prefer the magnetic inserts that Incra offers. My son owns one and it is excellent. Another brand to consider is Woodpecker which I own and am quite pleased with. Both have excellent construction and it can come down to personal preference on the adjustments systems. Maybe the best approach is to let price and availability decide for you between the three.

   As a side note I'm not a fan of Grizzly but 3¼ router motors are all imported now with the decision of Stanley to kill the PC routers so it's a crap shoot. I bought my son the Woodpecker version just because they stand behind it.

2. 
   jharveyb | Jan 26, 2022 01:34pm | #2

   I have several Porter Cable 690 type routers, from 1.75 hp to 2.25 hp. They do all I require of them. However, I generally take multiple cuts, both to not work the router too hard, and for better finish quality and safety. I would not hesitate to use your 1.75 hp router. (In fact, I have a 3hp Makita that has not been used in at least 25 years.)
   I also expect that others will chime in about how much they love their big routers and router lifts. Might be convenient but not necessary. If you are in a real production shop with multiple routers set up permanently, then you might be in enough of a hurry to cut the profiles in one go (and ignore the tear-out that results.)

   One rarely discussed aspect of using a router is the exit angle of the cutter from the wood, and how that affects tear-out. The steeper the angle, the more likely the tear-out. When you take a very light last cut, the exit angle is much less than with a heavy cut, and you get less tear-out. When I am doing a rabbet with visible edges, I take a very light first cut, and a very light last cut, to keep the two outside corners as crisp as possible.
   Good routing!

3. 
   lwk69 | Jan 26, 2022 02:40pm | #3

   Thanks for the quick replies and good advice. I have not used my router that extensively so this is new territory for me. Unfortunately, my Milwaukee isn't variable speed. I also have the Dewalt DWP611 compact router but I could always use my Milwaukee for bigger handheld cuts. You can never have enough routers!

   I checked out the Incra and Woodpecker lifts - nice, but a bit much for my budget. Big price difference, though, between the JessEm and Incra. Kreg also makes a lift mid-way in price between the JessEm and the Incra/Woodpecker. Still leaning towards the Bosch/JessEm combo.

   Thanks again.

4. 
   _mj_ | Jan 26, 2022 02:57pm | #4

   Have a look at the Triton TRA001 Router and built-in lift in a very easy to use package.

   https://www.tritontools.com/en-US/Product/Power%20Tools/Routers/TRA001

   You probably don't need a bigass router for your glass and plywood panels. 1.75 should do for the cope & stick bits. The big power really becomes necessary for the large panel raising wing cutters.

   ** After looking up the glass bead bit set I removed my comment about ot needing variable speed. The bit was much larger than I expected. It has a "recoverable bead" feature making it wider in diameter** I should have looked them up first.

   For your doors, you should consider setting up 2 routers for the duration of the project. Dialing in the stile and rail bits once and having them set up makes a world of difference when you discover you need one more part or you destroy something. Using one router and going back and forth between bits is a sure path to a drinking problem.

1. 
   esch5995 | Jan 26, 2022 04:21pm | #5

   I'm not sure I agree with your comments about the need for variable speed, most cope & stick bit sets run between 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter. His Milwaukee router spins at 24,000 rpm most recommendations for bit that size recommend speeds below 20,000 rpm. I would be especially careful if you are using 2nd tier bits made from unknown factories overseas. I admit it's not a huge difference but maybe it's my advancing years, or I became more cautious as my children started taking up woodworking but I definitely tend to error on the side of caution especially when I am giving advice to others. It is one thing for me to live with doing something in the gray area if things go wrong but to give advice to others is something else.

   
2. 
   rob_ss | Jan 27, 2022 04:22am | #9

   I use this router - it's a beast but really well made and balanced so easy to use both in and out of a table. I have one big router. And am at risk of a drinking problem...

5. 
   _mj_ | Jan 26, 2022 05:49pm | #6

   Esch, Thanks for your civility in calling out the error. I should have looked up those specific bits first. The set I have is designed for thinner stock and considerably smaller. I have edited my reply above. -MJ

6. 
   john_c2 | Jan 26, 2022 06:32pm | #7

   For just the cope and stick bits, your router is fine. And there isn't much difference between a 1-3/4 and 2-1/4 HP router.

   As above, you don't need variable speed for those bits, but I wouldn't buy another router without VS.

   I use the Bosch 1617 for almost all my routing. I use the big boy for the 3 inch panel raising bit.

7. 
   spog_uk | Jan 26, 2022 06:35pm | #8

   I'd echo MJ's recommendation to look at the TRA001, as an affordable, reliable and beefy router with some good functionality.

   FWIW, my own experience is there is also a difference between the safe operating speeds of a router -- governed by the velocity of the cutting edge of the bit, which is proportional to its radius and the RPM of the axis-- but also the optimum setup for a clean surface, particularly important if, eg, doing cope-and-stick joinery for doors, where you want your moulding to be free of chatter and tearout. And here, more juice in a motor is also better, although other factors like the design of the table etc matter as well -- if the thing is heaving and straining through the cut, even if it manages to maintain the proper speed, it's going to vibrate and give suboptimal results. My own experience would suggest that a smaller motor will probably cut it, but a 3 1/4 will give the headroom to have a surface that needs minimum cleanup.