I’ve always made my mortise/tenons in the conventional way.
But now, I have a project where I’d like to use mortises with loose tenons.
I have been gathering ideas for a jig I can use with a plunge router, and I wonder if anyone has built one they especially like?
Ideally, the jig would be adjustable for both the width and length of the mortise.
Thanks.
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“It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts.”
John Wooden 1910-
Replies
Indeed.
Pat,When I started looking around, your site was one of the first places I went to. I think your jig is wonderfully designed and engineered, but $320 is a little too rich for my blood. Maybe I will buy one or two of those bits from you though.Thanks.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
There has been a bunch of jigs in past issues of FW. I used a plung router with a fence and it worked fine for floating tenons when I made a door.
Troy
You might want to check out what this guy uses. I tried it horiz. works for me. Chris
http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/
Interesting site; I take it you set up your router table for making the mortises, right?i thought his motorized router raiser was ingenious.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I used the same idea as Mr Nixon did .only i done it on my horiz, router. I also used a cordless screw driver as Mr Nixon did.. I had to leave the springs in the router as i said i am using it horiz./I use extra long 3/8 and 1/2" carbide end mills. Works cool to run the end mill in to the stock on the fly while elong gating holes.
Using a router verticlley with no springs would help the battries last longer. although i have spares for mine . Chris
Best horizontal slot mortiser router was in FWW #141. Second best was in tools and Workshop isssue of FWW I believe in 2005. You can get the Grizzly G0540 for around $400. Pat Warner's isn't bad but you can't beat the horizontal and loose tenons for best overall performance.
http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/reviews/articles_729.shtml
Funny thing is I first learned about slot mortisers in FWW over 25 years ago and they never really followed up on it properly. I've spent the last 25 years finding everything I can about them and have tried most every type and at least know about them if I haven't tried them. One of the best kept secrets in woodworking along with the might stroke sander. Funny how the Festool Domino is creating such a stir. These poor souls have had their head buried in the sand.
Thanks. I agree that doing your mortising horizontally -- either on the router table or a machine like the Grizzly you linked -- is a good way to do it. But this time, I am looking for ideas for a jig that I can use with a plunge router and attach to the work piece.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
check out issue 158 page 36. I've used this jig with good results many times.
I did track this one down (FWW 158) -- Gary Rogowski's, right?It's the best I have found so far. Thanks.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
that's the one. I use it all the time I must have a half dozen of various sizes laying around my shop
tom
Here are the plans from a horizontal mortiser that I build. It's fully adjustable.
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=33495.1
Neil
That is a very nice device/jig, and I am grateful for the link. I read here all the time, but somehow I missed it the first time around. I did save the info, since I can use it if I decide to get rigged up for horizontal boring. many thanks. But, at the moment, I am gathering ideas for a jig I can use with a plunge router (and attach to the work piece).********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Nikki--Plans for a very efficient, safe and easy to use plunge router Mortising Jig can be found in ShopNotes magazine, Vol. 11, Issue 64 (July 2002 Issue). I made this jig and use it. I do enthusiastically recommend it.
You can go to http://www.shopnotes.com for plans and/or back issues.
I think you will like this jig.
Billy B.
Nikki--I may have been wrong in my earlier post. I checked ShopNotes web site. I see no provision for ordering back issues. And, I was unable to find plans for this particular jig. I have contacted them and asked about this. No response yet.
I do recommend that you go to their web site and check. They had another mortising jig for plunge router in issue No. 90, I think. You may like it. Will post again if find the back issue or the plan can be had.
Billy B.
I don't subscribe to Shop Notes, but I did come across this jig on line. The problem is, they offer a pic and the cutting diagram (for the various pieces), then you have to figure out how to build it. Apparently, they are no longer selling individual back issues -- you must buy the whole volume (a year's worth), which they have bound. I think I can fiugure it out, however, without the specific plans, so thanks.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
There is a very simple yet effective mortising jig in Jeff Miller's Chairmaking book. It simply consists of a large block of wood, that you could glue up from scraps, and it effectively creates a slot for the router fence to ride in for control. I have been using it to make all of my mortices for quite a while, and it works great. It is repeatable, and effective, and it will cost you a few scraps from your woodpile, assuming you have the router, fence, and bits already.
Let me know if you'd like to see a picture posted, and I'll take one in my shop.
Walnutz
I have Jeff Miller's book (CHAIRMAKING AND DESIGN), and I did look to see what he uses. Turns out that he does use a router, but does not do loose pins. He does, however, have a clever jig for using a router to make tenons (page 46).********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
nikkiwood
Actually, I've spent some time with Jeff Miller, and he uses a JDS multirouter for all his mortices and tenons. However, in his book, he can't expect everyone to go out and spend $3000.00+ on a tool to make mortises, so he shows his jig as a viable option.
I was working on a table today, and was mortising the legs and aprons, as I plan on using floating tenons as you were speaking of in your original post. I went ahead and took some photo's of the jig in use. I hope it helps, as I think you'll love the jig for this exact purpose, especially in that it takes about an hour or less to build, and you can make it out of scraps.
Walnutz
Those pics are very helpful.I can see you are using the "mortising block" jig that he describes in his book (page 43). The only thing I am a little confused about is that you are apparently using the same jig to cut the mortises for the leg aprons. Another pic (head on) of that operation would be extremely helpful. I am intuiting that you are using one of the Jorgenson bench clamps to hold the apron, and the rabbeted stop block (on the left of the work piece in your pic) to keep it from moving around as you route the mortise. Is that right?I am grateful for your help.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Here's another pic of the operation head on. (Good thing I took a bunch!) The rabbetted stop block is used to hold the apron firmly against the mortising jig. I also use a piece of scrap on each side of the apron, as shown, to keep the apron exactly vertical. I align them with a square, and space them with the apron clamped in place.
One of the real nice benefits of this setup is that once I layout one mortise, and mark it's location on the jig (see pencil line), I can replicate parts very quickly without needing to mark each mortise on each furniture part. I can create all 8 mortices on 4 legs in about 10 minutes. Same for the aprons. It's very quick, and very easy, especially when I have a large quantity of similar furniture parts, like chairs.
I'm sure you noticed, but the two blocks on top of the jig are stops for the left and right edge of the mortise. The router fence slides back and forth between them, plunging a little deeper at each stop.
Walnutz
Edited 2/5/2007 6:37 pm ET by Walnutz
I am still struggling to get my addled old brain around this.From this pic, I am guessing you have a separate board attached to your bench legs (altho I see no clamps or screws) to which the apron is fixed with the Quik clamp. And it also appears the Jorgenson hold downs have been removed for this kind of end cut on the apron. Am I close?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I have screwed 5 different spots through the bottom of the jig for the hold downs. For horizontal mortising in a part, I use them. It's easy to just line up the edge of the furniture part flush with the top of the jig, which is flat, to guarantee a mortise which is 90° to the part's surface, as shown with the leg. With aprons, or any mortise in end grain, you need to keep the part perpindicular to the top of the jig. With screw clamps like the jorgensen hold downs, the part wiggles a little as you screw the clamp tight. The fastest way that I've found is with 2 ledger boards screwed to the front face of the jig, exactly 90° (set with a square) to the top of the jig, with the part in between. By taking the extra 3 minutes to do this, it allows for all the aprons to be mortised very quickly without checking each one for vertical with a square. It's just much faster, especially when I have 40 parts to mortise, like with a set of chairs.
Hope this helps.
Walnutz
Edited 2/6/2007 10:06 am ET by Walnutz
I would be embarrassed to tell you how long I have been sitting here, poring over the pic below and your explanation, and I still can't quite figure it out. You said:"With aprons, or any mortise in end grain, you need to keep the part perpindicular to the top of the jig...... The fastest way that I've found is with 2 ledger boards screwed to the front face of the jig, exactly 90° (set with a square) to the top of the jig, with the part in between."By "ledger boards" do you mean the two boards screwed to the right and left of the apron?Then, look at the Quik clamp (holding the apron). Is that board attached to a piece of ply (at 90°), which in turn, is screwed to the underside of what Miller calls the "mortising block"?Sorry to be so dense. It's no fun getting old <G>.Thanks.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
You asked: By "ledger boards" do you mean the two boards screwed to the right and left of the apron?
Yes, just two boards that I add when I need to have a board held vertical.
The mortising jig is held in the planing vise on my workbench between benchdogs. The plywood between it and the benchtop is simply there to raise it up high enough for clearance of the 44" rail I'm mortising above the floor in my shop. Sorry, I didn't explain that part. I just needed the extra 3/4" to make it! The quick clamp is holding the board to the front of my workbench,which is about 8 to 10 inches below the top of the jig. That's why I used the extra rabbetted piece, screwed in at the top. It simply holds the workpiece tight to the face of the jig at the top. Without it, the workpiece tends to "lean out" a little, and I can't get the mortise exactly where I need it. I hope I'm not overcomplicating this, because it's really quite simple.
Walnutz
Walnutz,
Please post a picture. I am going to build the same jig you are speaking about but I would love to see your version.Regards,
Buzzsaw
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Don't bother. I read along in the thread and found the pictures. Thanks for posting them...Regards,
Buzzsaw
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Nikki--If you are willing to send me your e-mail address, I think I can help you. Here is my e-mail address [email protected].
If you do this, give me at least a day to respond. Have to figure out what is happening with my printer/scanner/copier. I can send you a picture of mine and help with the construction.
Billy B.
Billy,You're very generous. I will send along an email to the address you mentioned. Thanks.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
The article you copied from Shop Notes arrived in yesterday's mail.I am indebted to you for sending it along. Many thanks.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
This was cobbled together some time back, it is part of a sixties power hand drill jig adapted for a router. The router platform is the Trend Unibase and the rest may be gleaned from the photos. The rails are pinned to the end sockets and the clamping distance is varied by the threaded rods acting on the far side only. As the rails get closer to each other the Unibase pivots on its attachment bolts so the router is always centered. Offset mortices are achieved by packing on side of the stock.
It has been excellent for lock fitting on doors etc.
While my earlier jig was perhaps a bit over engineered, this jig is as simple as it gets for floating tendons. The nice thing about these is that they are easy to make and easy to use. They are not adjustable as far as the width goes, but for most applications, that’s just fine.<!----><!----><!---->
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The “Jigs” photos show the Jigs upside-down. They are really just scraps of hardwood and as scrap of ½ plywood screwed together. The slot is 5/8 wide and fits a standard P/C bushing. The length is whatever you want the width of the mortise to be. The scrap of plywood with four holes is 7/32 thickness, which is ½ of the difference between 4/4 and 5/4 stock. That way, the jigs can be converted for either stock by simply adding the shim. You could also use that to set a reveal. The pictures are for an end to end mortise. To use on a table leg, just turn them 90 degrees.<!----><!---->
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To use them, mark the approximate center (marked. jpg) of the stock to be mortised and transfer the line to the end of the piece (centered. jpg). Then simply clamp the jig to the end of the piece and plunge route the mortise. The diameter of the bit and the thickness of the tendon are not important; 3/8 or ½ will be centered. <!----><!---->
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The pictures “simple” are even less sophisticated. They can be used to set a floating tendon in any flat surface, such as joining a fixed shelf. <!----><!---->
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Neil<!----><!---->
That jig is the essence of simplicity; thanks for posting the pics. I take it then, you use the PC template guide (5/8" OD for a 1/2" bit) even if you are using a 3/8" bit?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
That’s correct. As long as the jig is centered, the diameter of the bit is not important. The 3/8 bit actually works better, as there is more clearance for the chips to be extracted.<!----><!----><!---->
I entirely agree with your sentiments Neil and went down that road very many years ago when I got my first router, a single speed Elu. My "workshop" however is 14 feet square inside and full, I just do not have room to keep and find again jigs for routers, saw table, drill press and so on. The few jigs I do keep are constantly moved and I am on a diet to create more room!
Best wishes, David.
Here is a picx of router with cordless screw driver Chris
That's a devilishly clever device -- thanks for the pics. I'm guessing that you can predetermine the final depth with the settings on your plunge router, and then just nibble your way to the final cut by flicking on the screw driver when you want to move the bit up a bit. Can you do this while the router is running?
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
The clutch on the screw driver rachets when the router hits positive stop so i can take what ever i want up till it hits bottom. Yes i do this while it is running. I have not set up remote switch yet because iam looking for another screw driver with a clutch that has a round area to clamp to . Preferbly 6 volt.The screw driver in the pic has no clutch . I had one 3.6 volt from Enco but the switch broke in it. Chris
nikkiwood,
What is the attraction of a loose tenon? I see it as simply a wide dowel. Now admittedly my practice is a bit differant than yours in that my wood tends to be rather large. But I bore a hole in a timber with a self feeding bit and chuck a piece of the required wood into the lathe and turn out "dowels (loose tenons) up to 2 & 9/16ths. If the strength needed calls for more than I can provide with a single dowel I make a paper transfer template and drill several holes. I can even overlap the holes since I'm using a self feeding bit (kind of like a big Forsner bit)
Admittedly it's faster to do a proper mortice and tenon joint that this, but there are places where this technique is called for. For example if I need to put a timber between two existing timbers I can take this approach and simply bore one hole deeper. Deep enough to hold the whole "dowel" and a spring. I then recess the dowel(s) slide the timber in place and when the holes line up the dowqel slides out and the glue will now hold everything in place..
frenchy,<< " What is the attraction of a loose tenon?">>In your case, I would say none. I have always in the past used conventional mortise/tenons for furniture items, but I got interested in loose tenons, since in many cases, I think it may be marginally faster.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
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