Replies

1. 
   Ricks503 | Oct 25, 2005 03:30am | #1

   depends on how much you want to spend.  I saw a demo of the jointech lift and was greatly impressed.  Super accurate and ultra repeatable but I think the price tag is about $400.

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
1. 
   johnny17 | Oct 25, 2005 08:43am | #2

   Check out woodpeckers.com . They have one that works with a plunge router that works great.The cost is very reasonable. I have one and very pleased

2. 
   tap5055 | Oct 25, 2005 09:28pm | #3

   I used a DW625 for several years in a table without a lift.  I took the springs out of the posts and just used the thumb screw for adjustment.  A better handle would have been nice, but otherwise it worked well.  Gripes were that the router stayed full of dust and I could not keep it clean.  Variable speed switch finally quit (I have that problem on a lot of Dewalt tools).  The collet wouldn't go above the table, but it was still reasonable to change the bits with the one wrench process. 

   The only other thing I would have done differently is make the router back face forward to ease getting the wrench to the collet.

3. 
   seb | Oct 26, 2005 12:29am | #4

   I have made several kitchens worth of rail and style doors. I use a 7xxx Porter cable(3 1/2 hp,non plunge) bolted to a chunk of 1/2" plex, that is inset into the side table on a PM66. An aux. fence clamped to the table. no lift

   It is the way you make the pieces rather than the equipment...

   Cut the boards for the stiles  to the exact length, and wide enough so that you get a pair. then make the inside edge(of the frame) cut on both sides of the board, and also the rails. Then make a test piece to set the bit for the cut height on the end of the stiles. When you get that set, cut all of the stile ends ,rip em to width and you are done.Since you are cutting a much wider board it is much more stable. The thickness of the board is not to critical cause everything indexes from the front face. so it will be flush for sure,When you cut the inside edge on the stiles do the same on the rails.  You can do the rails  in pairs but its not as critical cause you are cutting the edge of a long piece.......Cut all the doors at one time and you only have one setup on the inside edge cut and one on the butt end cut. 

   Hope that made sense

   Bud

1. 
   domermatt | Oct 26, 2005 12:37am | #5

   Not sure how much you want to spend, but I bought a Milwaukee #5625  3 1/2 HP router and I couldn't be happier. It's designed to be used upside down, and can be adjusted easily with the router in a router table.When people 100 years from now see my work, they'll know I cared. --Matt Mulka

2. 
   ktkamm | Oct 26, 2005 02:01am | #6

   It makes lots of sense. When cutting the stiles, do you make them twice the width of the stile + the saw blade width then rip in half or do you make them even wider , rip in half and then further trim to final width (hope that makes sense!)? Thanks to all for help/suggestions.

1. 
   seb | Oct 26, 2005 02:42am | #7

   I make em as wide as the boards I have, as long as its a tad more than twice, plus the saw kerf. Cut the first off one side,  then with the same setting, cut the excess off the other one...

   Bud