Planning on building a router table in the near future- any suggestion for a router lift?
Has to be able to adjust height from above table.
Thanks,
Eric
Planning on building a router table in the near future- any suggestion for a router lift?
Has to be able to adjust height from above table.
Thanks,
Eric
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Replies
BenchDog under this one.
Routers
Eric;
I was checkin out the jessem lift at Rockler last week and was really impressed. It seemed very smooth yet rock solid.
Chris
I really like the only one I've used, a Woodpecker QuickLift. You can set any height in literally ten seconds. Twist one wrench, lift to approximate height, then use the hex wrench to dial it by thousandths. Above the table bit change.
All of the lifts from Woodpeckers get high marks by users but the new kid on their block is the Quick-Lift that brings a while new dimension to fast bit changing above the table.
I have a review of the Quick-Lift at the link below with photos and lots of details on how it works including a video of it in action. I also have reviews of several other Woodpeckers (and others) lifts in the Tool Reviews section that might shed a little light on what is out there.
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wdpkrsquickliftrvu.html
Tom Hintz
Because there is always more to learn!
I like the Woodpecker Precision Router Lift (PRL). I built a table from Norm's plans and after researching the Benchdog, Jessum, and PRL, I just liked the features of the PRL the best. I don't think much seperates them and the all have positive reviews. I wanted the fine adjustment, and I liked the construction. I purchased the PC 7518 to dedicate to the table and the combo has been great. Here is a link to my setup. Do a search on router lifts here, and you find a ton of posts. Good luck on the post.
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=17631.1
The best I know of:
http://www.jointech.com/smartliftdigital.htm
They have been back ordered since it came out a couple years ago. It works as advertised.
Todd
Eric,
Consider a Triton router, if you haven't already decided which router to put in your table. It still has to be wound up and down from under the table but provides a number of features that make this very easy:
* The spring comes out so there is less resistance to height changes.
* One of the router's handles serves to make large up/down moves
* A separate fine adjuster knob allows very fine movements
* (Best feature) the whole collet can be raised above the table, which automatically locks the collet for a one-wrench cutter change (and the power cannot be turned on).
This isn't what you asked for (apologies) but is worth considering as an alternative route (!) to easier router table operation. I have one in a LV router table and love it.
Here is a link.
http://www.tritontools.co.uk/site/1328839/product/TRB001
Lataxe
My vote goes with the PRL fro http://www.woodpeck.com or the Jesum masterlift. Still not conbvinced the digital router lifts are worth the money JMHO.
Jack
Digital is a nice option and I use it all the time, but I agree that it is expensive. The lift design itself is superior to all others IMHO, and can be had without the digital option.
Todd
This was not aval when I chose the PRL so I did not look at that make/model. What, in your opinion makes, their design superior to others? Just curious.
Essentially it works as advertised, so forgive me if this sounds like a sales pitch (I have no stock in this company):Advertisement:If you've ever used or seen a router lift, you know that the 3 major flaws with all of them are:1) backlash, 2) dust build-up on the working parts, and 3) the inability to accurately adjust bit height changes.Every router lift currently on the market uses either a belt-and-pulley system or some type of chain-and-sprocket arrangement. By design, each of these configurations has an inherent amount of backlash ?engineered? into them. Add to that, the fact that all of the working components used to raise or lower the router motor and bit are exposed, thus making them a constant and frustrating maintenance issue of dust and particulate matter build-up. Additionally, adjusting the height of the router bit still requires the use of a ruler or some third party add-on device that fails to accurately or quickly give you the setting that you need...or worse yet, a never ending stream of test cuts.
Comments:
The first two flaws are corrected by the unique design of the lift. The third flaw is corrected by the unique design and the addition of a precision digital readout. This is one tool that I think benefits from such precision, as fitting routed dovetailed drawers often comes down to thousandths of an inch.
Todd
Thanks for the info. Allways curious about hardware even if i'm not in the market.
I have never used a table mounted router to make dovetailed drawers. It is only my opinion that the digital is over priced for the benifit that you get, I i have never tried one.. Question,what happens if the digital fails, do you have to get a new unit?
Jack
Dovetails was just one example. If you have never used a router that required precise adjustments (rail and stile, finger joints, lock miters, dovetails, etc.), then your experience is truly limited and would not benefit from digital readouts and anti-backlash lift designs.I don't know the answer to "what happen if the digital fails". I could guess that parts could be replaced, but if you want a definitive answer, you should just ask the company.Todd
I find that setup blocks and a PRL lifter are more than adicuate for raised panel. locking miter, etc. and I use the Leigh D24 for dovetails all without danoter digital device to worry about. JMHO.
Jack
the jessem is the balls...
i have 3. one mastr lift and two mastr lift fx...they are very precise, they allow bit changes above the table, the insert rings are threaded around the edge instead of held in place by screws. i have had no problems with any of them in the 2 years i have had them. very solid well machined quality equipment.
I looked at ALL the lifts an some are marvels of engineering and then the cost. I thought it more prudent to put those bucks into a 3+ hp. router fixed base with bottom access to the elevation screw and lock it down as a dedicated set up. Much less problems,Pat
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