Replies

1. 
   BG | Oct 05, 2003 12:37am | #1

   Strongbo,

   I had to cut mine about 2 months ago for my router table.  I was given some advice that talked about a template and you run around the template with the router set at the appropriate depth.  Sounded good...but I discarded that method.  I was nervous that if the router got away...it would cut into the keeper side.  I reversed the process and built a template that would leave about 1/2" ledge to support the plate.  The template was a couple pieces of wood clamped to the top.  The router ran along on the inside of the wood and if I made a mistake..it would cut into the scrap anyhow..no worry.

   For additional support of my router table top I glued 1/4" hard board to the underside....probably wasn't necessary, but it gave me a full inch thick top. 
1. 
   TomFerreira | Oct 07, 2003 04:50pm | #4

   I made an MDF template on the band saw and used a pattern bit to cut the top. My top was 1 1/4" thick and I cut a shelf 7/16" deep for a 3/8" plate. The extra 1/16" was for the set screw levelers on the plate. This worked great. I used a plunge router and went at it with several shallow cuts. the pattern bit has a top bearing to ride against the template.

   TDF

2. 
   art | Oct 05, 2003 01:02am | #2

   After doing the arithmetic regarding offsets for my rabbiting bit, I cut through the top and then used the rabbiting bit to create a ledge for the router base. Good luck, Art

3. 
   tcalisto | Oct 06, 2003 05:53pm | #3

   Stronbo1,

   I have done this a couple of times with very good results using the following technique that I picked up from a Fine Woodworking article that I read several years ago.

   The method compensates for any eccentricity between the router collet and the router subbase. First set a bit in the router that is equal to the corner radius of the router insert that you plan to put in the top of your router table (i.e. if the radii are .5" put a 1" diameter bit in the router). Now screw a fence to a piece of scrap plywood (roughly 12" x 18"). Set the fence 4-6 inches in from the long edge of the plywood. What you are about to do with the plywood and fence is make some offset from hardboard that exactly match the offset from the four quadrants of you router subase to the edge of the bit. Double stick tape a piece of hardboard (12" x 4" or so)to the scrap plywood and snug against the fence that you screwed on.  With the 12 oclock position of your router subbase against the fence trim the hardboard to width. Label this piece as 12 oclock. Repeat this operation for the 3, 6 and 9 oclock positions. After making the offset pieces you are ready to put a whole in the top of your router table. Place the router insert on the table where you want it. Place the offsets around the insert in their repective positions, 12 oclock at the top 3 to the right etc (you may need to trim the offsets to length). Prepare some fence stock to enclose the insert and offset pieces. What you should have now is the insert in the center with the offset pieces tight up against the insert and 4 fences securely clamped and snugged against the offset pieces. Remove the insert and offsets taking care not to disturb the fences. Set your router to the exact depth of your insert (or deeper if you plan to use elevator screws). Fire the router up and make a pass around the inside of the fences. As you rout out the inside (perimeter only) take care to keep the proper quadrants of the router subbase lined up with proper fences. Make one pass then clear any dust that may prevent the router from contacting the fence. Repeat until the router quits cutting. Switch bits in the router with a 1/4" bit and set the depth to go through. Take a pass with the 1/4" bit and the center section should fall free (if your top is thicker than 3/4" you will need to make this cut in several passes). Before removing the fences try your insert in the hole. If all went well it should fit perfectly.

   The 1" bit and 1/4" bit will give you a 3/8" rabbit around the perimeter for the insert to rest on. If you wanted a larger rabbit you could waste a little more material with the 1" bit and cut out the hole with a saber saw in lieu of the 1/4" bit or use a larger bit to start with and compensate for the larger radius by increasing the corner radius on your insert. As always try this on some scrap until you feel confident.

   Good luck,

   Tom

1. 
   Strongbow | Oct 07, 2003 11:36pm | #5

   Tom,

   Thank's for the info I will try this method as it seems the more acurate way of making the recess.

   I realise it's a hard one to actually explain in written words and I thank you for the time you have taken to reply to the question.

   Will let you know how it goes.

   Mike

1. 
   tcalisto | Oct 08, 2003 07:16pm | #6

   Strongbo1,

   I hope my explanation was clear. If not I did find the article that I mentioned, it was Fine Woodworking #90 page 56. The process is actually quit simple and fairly safe as you are cutting within the fences so any errant cut will be on the waste side, additionally this method should provide a perfect fit the first time.

   Good Luck,

   Tom