Replies

1. 
   BG | Sep 19, 2005 06:03pm | #1

   webby,
   I think my thoughts were the same as yours..and here is what happened.
   I built Norm's table with a 1" top (3/4 melamine and 1/4" hardboard) inserted a bench dog plastic template for the Dewalt 621. I taped the Dewalt in the 'on position' and plugged it into a power strip along with the shop vac. Nice set up worked well..until the plastic started to sag. Swapped out the top for an 1 1/4" thick top, laminated on both sides, and installed the Rockler metal template and attached the Dewalt 621. I want to recycle the router now for a larger router and because I love the 621 in the handheld position but it will not turn off anymore...apparently duck taping the switch has done something that prevents it from functioning correctly. Getting it repaired is probably no big deal..but just thought you should be aware...

2. 
   woodworker79 | Sep 19, 2005 06:17pm | #2

   webby,

   I just recently made Norm's router table. It was expensive, but it came out awesome!

   I went with the Jessem router plate. I was lucky enough to have access to a machinist who could perfectly center the router and drill the necessary holes. If I didn't have that option, I would have seriously considered a predrilled plate.

   As for cutting the pocket for the plate, I set up a straight cutting bit on my new router and used a straight edge. I tried to error on the side of keeping the hole smaller than needed so I could go back and fine tune the cut. For the corners, I actually used a dremel and a sanding drum to cut the round corners. It wasn't the ideal way to do it, but it worked. With some time and patience (and the little stress) it can be done this way. The ideal way is obviously to get a template.

   The best thing the Jessem plate offered was jacking set screws. There are many ways of doing this, but the bottom line is get something to adjust the height of the plate so the depth of cut is not very important. I believe Rockler offers a screw that can used from the underside to do this.

   Good luck,
   Tim

3. 
   tcalisto | Sep 19, 2005 10:01pm | #3

   webby,

   Ed Walker wrote an article for Fine Woodworking several years ago. His article was on pg 56 of issue #90. The method that he outlines works beautifully. I have used this method several times and every time it has yielded a perfect recess. The main advantage of this system is that you are working on the waste side of the recess and any errant cuts will not destroy your top.

   The description of this method is much more difficult than the actual operations.

   1. Determine the radii on the corners of you router table insert. Insert cutter with the same radius in your router that you are going to use to route the recess.

   2. Make some offset templates out of 1/4" sheet stock. The templates are the exact offsets from the edge of your bit to the edge of you router baseplate at the front, left, back and right sides/quadrants. To make these templates you need to make a "cutting board" with a fence on it. Rough cut the template stock (4 pieces/ one for each edge or quadrant of you router base) about 2" longer than than the table insert and about an 1/8-1/4" wider than the offset. After rough cutting the templates it is time to trim them to the exact width. Place one piece of template stock against the fence on the "cutting board" and fasten it via brads or double sided tape. Trim the template with your router so that the front edge of the router baseplate is riding against the fence on the "cutting board". Mark template as front edge and remove. Repeat for other three blanks using the back, left and right edges of your router.

   3. Place table insert on the table where you want to position it. Arrange the offset templates around the insert in order, i.e. front, right, back and left edge. You will have to trim the left and right template to length so that all the edges mate tightly against the table insert.

   4. Cut some 1/2" sheet stock to use for fences. Run the fence stock around the perimeter of the table insert and templates. Use  double sided tape or preferably clamp the 4 fence pieces onto the table top. Check for gaps between the insert, templates and the perimeter fence, adjust as necessary. Mark the fences as front, right, back and left as they relate to the offset templates. Make sure that the fence is secure and cannot move as all cutting will reference these fences.

   5. Set the router bit about .01" shy of your table insert thickness  if you are not going to use levelers under the insert. If you plan on using levelers  then make it about .03 deeper than the insert. Remove table insert and offset templates and begin cutting. Be sure to run the front edge of the router against the front edge fence, right edge to right fence etc.. After cutting to full depth blow off table and make another pass to ensure that the the recess is fully cut.

   6. After cutting the recess (channel at this point) in the top it is time to remove the center section. If the corner radii of the table insert is greater than 1/2" (1" cutter) I would just switch bits to a 1/4" cutter and route out the center section. The combination of a 1" bit and 1/4" bit will yield a 3/8" wide ledge for the insert to rest upon. If you wish to have a wider ledge you could simply enlarge the channel first then remove center with a saber saw. Test the fit of the insert before removing fences.

    

   It really is a simple and fool proof method. The only thing that can go wrong is if the fences move during the cut so make sure that they are secure. The description is a little cumbersome without some drawings but it is easy.

    

   Tom

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   Edited 9/19/2005 3:37 pm ET by tcalisto

   
   

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   Edited 9/19/2005 3:41 pm ET by tcalisto

4. 
   webby | Sep 20, 2005 04:52pm | #4

   Hi everyone,

   Thanks for the good information. I am not ready to build it yet. I am going to read and digest the information from the issue of FWW.

   I like the bench dog plate however one of my options is the hitachi 3hp which the plate is not drilled for.

   Anyway thanks for the info.

   Webby

1. 
   woodworker79 | Sep 20, 2005 11:13pm | #5

   I'm using the Hitachi 3hp in my table right now. I don't understand why the PC is almost double the price. The Hitachi is awesome. I love it so far.

5. 
   craig | Sep 21, 2005 03:24pm | #6

   If the plate isn't drilled for the router, you can take off the base plate of the router and mark the holes if the mfg doesn't provide you with a template.   If you screw up, fill it with bondo & try again.

1. 
   webby | Sep 21, 2005 04:58pm | #7

   Yeah, I was looking originally at the Rousseau router plate, phenolic etc. about 40 dollars, which is alot cheaper than the benchdog.

   I have also thought about building a double router table at some point and the Rousseau plates would be economical. I would rather drill a plastic plate myself than an aluminum one.

   Eagle America sells mounting kits for different routers with threaded pins that screw into the subbase mounting holes on the router, then you use the alignment pin and bushing to line up the router on your plate how you want it the threaded pins are pointed on the end and sort of mark the plate. I think the whole kit is like ten dollars.

   I am also leaning more to the Hitachi 3hp.

   Webby

    

1. 
   ohcomeon | Sep 21, 2005 08:30pm | #8

   I used the Rousseau, and while it has been good enough, if I were to do it over again I'd get an aluminum one.  I just built my fence the other night and have not had a chance to use it, (had been using some countertop scraps clamped to the TS fence).  However, w/out the router the built-in crown of the Rousseau prevents the fence from sitting flat on the table.  It is minimal, and hopefully will go away with the weight of the router, but it still annoys me.

   As for centering perfectly, I discovered that it is a non-issue.  Drilling the Rousseau for my 3612C Makita resulted in holes that are slightly off-center.  But the holes/inserts don't interfere with the bits.  And if you think about it, the placement of the hole affects nothing.  The stock you are routing references off of the fence.

   So take your time, get it as close as possible, but if it is off by a few mm's don't sweat it, it will work fine.