I would like to hear anyone’s experience and opinion of some of the new router raisers for router table use. I am looking at Jessem’s Mast-r-lift and some of the others in that catagory. I understand that it takes a lot of cranking to get any travel distance. What are the other negatives and any positives that you have found? Thanks for your help and advice.
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Replies
I have no personal experience with any of the raisers.However it would seem to me that the more cranking required,the finer the screw,and the more accurate the adjustment,
Work safely,
¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
I have been using the Mast-R-Lift for about a year and I really like it. It is the only one I have used so I can't provide any comparisons, but when i researched them a year ago it was the only one out there that I found with above the table collet access and fine adjustment for the price.
The only issue I have had with it is the collection of fine dust on the two guide rods and screw lift. If it gets caked up too much it is hard to crank the router high enough to change out bits.
The best thing I have found to keep the works sliding free is some spray coating used to protect cutting edges from pitch build up and corrosion (I am not sure what it is called right now but I purchased it from woodcraft about two years ago and I still have half the can left).
Backlash is very minimal since the threads are so fine and as long as I keep the screw lubed and realatively clean, my arm doesn't get worn out from the excessive cranking.
Hope this helps.
Thanks, Bobo-- kind of what I expected. I'll wait and look at it some more. Chuck
Chuck,
Before you make a decision, check out the Precision Router Lift (PRL) made by Woodpecker. I have been using this model for about 1.5 years and love it. It is built tough, with aluminum gears and a heavy chain for the adjustments. The mechanism that houses the router is easy to set up. Before I bought mine, I did thorough research and compared all the router lifts on the market. The PRL was the heaviest and smoothest one, in my opinion.
I don't understand why people gripe about having to turn the wheel several times. More turns = greater accuracy. With the PRL, one turn equals 1/32", and it is easy to give it just 1/100th of a turn. Figure out what kind of accuracy that gives you! There is absolutely no backlash, and the router holds the height position solidly, even after routing several feet of lumber. If it raised faster, people would probably complain it wasn't accurate enough!
Like a previous writer said, sawdust will eventually collect on the raising mechanism, and this will make the crank tough to turn. Every once in a while, I get under there with a silicone-soaked rag and hold it on the chain as I turn the lift. This quickly brings it back to its original smoothness. It takes about 5 minutes and is nothing compared to other maintenance procedures I do in the shop!
One drawback of ALL router lifts is that it is inconvenient to take them in and out of the table. Install it in your router table with the router, and leave it there. Buy a second router for hand-held use.
Once I started using it, I could not imagine working without a good router lift.
Edited 10/7/2003 8:08:20 AM ET by Matthew Schenker
Chuck,
I too have a PRL from Woodpeckers and really like it. I bought the PC7518 motor for mine. FWIW they also make a coarse thread model which raises and lowers in 1/16" per turn. Like Matthew i have the fine thread and don't have any problems with too much cranking. I also got their sander OSS plate and mounted a PC622 oscillating spindle sander in it. I can switch between the two easily and get double duty out of my router table. I built the NYW table. real solid and plenty of storage, which you won't get with a shaper. Good luck!
TDF
I too have the PRL and after about 1 year noticed some definite stiffness in the lift. Other than that i think it is a great system. One time i did have the bit drop in heigth as i was using it ,but after cleaning some of the dust out of the lift gear i haven't had the problem again.
Matt, Are you using an aerosol silicone? I've tried lubing the tread screw with WD-40, with little success, I'll have to try the chain tonight.
Aaron
Not all router lifts are compatibnle with all model routers. I have a Freud 3 1/4 hp plunge router for which I found limited choices, when I looked into it. Could anyone advise me on models that would fit this router? Also, how does the router have to be modified in order to get the collet to be elevated above the table for bit changes? With it's base in place the collet can't be raised that high manually. Thanks for the advices.
Jay
Jayst,
Woodpeckers makes a new PRL for plunge routers. One of them fits the Freud FT2000. The lift for plunge routers is actually about $150 less, but it looks like it is not as substantial as the "classic" PRL.
My advice would be to get the Porter+Cable and PRL combination, even though it is a little more money. Remember, once you install a router in the lift, you are not going to want to be taking that router in and out all the time. Also, using a plunge router in a lift mechanism seems like a waste to me.
Here is a link to the Woodpeckers PRL area:
http://www.woodpeck.com/liftshome.html
Edited 10/8/2003 10:30:42 AM ET by Matthew Schenker
I already have another router, and I got the more powerful unit to use in a table with larger bits such as panel raising bits. I was hoping to use the Freud. Since I do this at home as a non-professional, I'm not sure how much expense it's worth for the convenience of not having to take out the router to adjust it. I'd say I do this once a month or less.
I'm not sure how much expense it's worth for the convenience of not having to take out the router to adjust it.
Jayst
I've had my Freud FT2000 set up as a table mounted router for a little over 18 months now. It gets used heavily, frequent but changes, long production runs. The only time I've needed to remove it from the table was to have it servised; lack of ventilation in the table caused an overheating prob which messed with the motor speed control.
My set up's about as basic as it gets, no hacking into the base casting, no custom bent spanners or shaft lock rigs etc, all adjustments / tool changes done from below the insert plate. I can honestly say.......hand on heart....that I've never had a prob....
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Abenker,
Yes, I use WD-40 to lubricate the lift mechanism. I spray WD-40 very lightly on the gears, then I soak a rag with the silicone and hold it on the chain as I turn the lift crank. I also use the silicone rag on the threaded rods. After a little while, I pick up all the debris, and I get nice smooth function back.
If someone has a better way to do this, I would love to hear about it!
Edited 10/8/2003 10:35:24 AM ET by Matthew Schenker
For my PRL, I only use silicone as a lubricant. I don't use WD-40 as a lubricant. My understanding of this product is that it is a "degreaser" and not a lubricant. Instead I use an old toothbrush to clean up the gears and chain. I imagine WD-40 would be a good choice for cleaning up the chain and gears if real dirty. I might give that a shot next time. After the gears have been cleaned, you definately want to use a lubricant on the gears and chain. It makes a big difference. I have found silicone (as you have) to be a great way to lubricate the lift without attracting excessive saw dust. Careful not to let any overspray from the silicone find its way on the floor. Silicone also tends to make floors very slick. :-o
I use a little furniture wax on the PRL top for a nice slick "wood friendly" finish.
--Rob
Put a cast iron Bench dog lift under this top. Not cheap but an awesome way to rout.
Both fence and spindle on fine adjust systems, what else is there?
luvbeads2, are there any plans for you router table top? The fence looks similar to that used by Pat Warner. Is the table top made of Richlite? Also I have been considering using Richlite for the table top and the purchase of the Benchdog lifter but is it worth the extra money?
luvbeads is wife's handle. That table is mine (Pat Warner) and trivial. Top is 5/8" MDF treated with 4 servings of GF poly/tung and steel wool. No heroics, no surprises.
Pat, I have your book and love it; thought I recognized the router table top. Again are there any plans available for that router table top and also what do you think of the Bench Dog router raiser? Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
David H.
No plans for the top, some data on the system here. Benchdog good as any, heavy, no backlash, precise, under the table installation: An essobee. Casting required a couple of new tapped holes; it's fastened in 4 corners. Had to rout away some MDF for the collet to to rise above the top.
Pat,
Thanks for the info; will follow up in the not too distant future.
Sincerely,
David H
I'm gonna throw my opinion in here although it probably won't be popular.
Go with the triton router. Easier and faster to adjust than all the other products listed. Excellent fine height adjustment and above the table single wrench bit changes. I have been using one in a router table for almost a year and I love it. I can't imagine spending the same amount of money for something that I still have to add a router to.Tom
Tom,
I do not know the Triton router; I will investigate it. Thanks for the suggestion.
David H
One other option.
I like the idea of 1/4" risers for safety reasons. Doing this exposes only a small portion of the router bit at a time, which would be great for deeper mortises. I think I will incorporate it into my routing.
However, I don't see how this method can achieve the kind of precision router raising I get with my mechanical raiser. With the PRL, I can go up in 1/32" increments, which I do all the time. With the 1/4" riser method, you are restricted to 1/4" increments.
I think that using 1/4" risers in conjunction with a router raiser is probably the best choice.
But I'm open to other opinions!
I recently got a new tablesaw (for christmas) and needed to replace my old 1 hp 1/4" craftsman (from 1973, still working!) I looked at all kinds of routers and raisers and ultimately decided to chance the new Triton router. I liked it because:
- It has a coarse (fast) height adjustment and a fine (slow) adjustment, then the height locks
- I can change the bit above the table with one wrench and a spindle lock instead of two wrenches
- Built in 1 1/4" dust collection built into the base underneath (I also collect at the fence above with a 3" line)
- 3 1/4 hp with soft start and variable speed
- Plunge spring removes easily for table mount
- It has two columns, both in plane with the bit. Some of the raisers columns are cantelevered out (off to one side of the bit) and I'm afraid they can deflect.
- It cost a heck of a lot less than a big variable speed router with a raising system
So far, it's doing great. All the other companies need to incorporate these features into their big plunge routers.
Edited 10/19/2003 12:33:00 AM ET by telemiketoo
The beginning of this thread mentions a lot of cranking, Jessim Routerlift uses an allen wrench w/handle as the crank. A straight allen wrench can be substituted and driven by a drill on low speed for gross adjustments.
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