Replies

1. 
   Knotscott | May 02, 2010 08:08am | #1

   There are lots of good choices Swifty....I'd look for a deal from Milwaukee, PC, DW, Makita, Bosch, Freud, Hitachi, Ridgid, or Triton.   I prefer my table routers to be loaded with above table conveniences...the Freud FT1700 and FT3000, and both Triton routers have collets that protrude through the table for easy above table bit changes.  Not sure about the Tritons, but these two Freud models also have an auto collet lock, above table height adjustment, and above table height lock. 

   Be sure you get 1/2" collet capability.

2. 
   hammer1 | May 02, 2010 08:15am | #2

   One of my router tables is on the table saw extension. I use PC routers, both the big one and a 690 with variable speed. I don't use my table saw fence since you often want tight clearance around the bit and dust collection at the fence. I also use a collet extension for above the table bit changes, otherwise you have to remove the router.

   
3. 
   RalphBarker | May 02, 2010 10:54am | #3

   tablesaw routers and design

   Simply screwing the fixed base to the bottom of your saqw's table extension probably isn't a good approach - you'll lose too much of the depth capacity of the router. Removing the phenolic base and replacing it with the typical router-table plate is a better approach, but you'll also need to rout out a large area of the extension to accommodate the plate and the router, so you may need to reinforce the table extension to avoid sag over time.

   I'd choose the router based on what you'll be doing. A 2 1/4HP is fine for most work, but a 3 1/4HP is usually suggested for larger bits (e.g. panel raisers, etc.). The larger, heavier routers exacerbate the sag issue with the table extension - particularly if you want to use a router lift mechanism. Also, all that weight to the side of the saw may make it tipsy unless the extension has support legs.

   Also, I wouldn't suggest using your saw's fence for the router. You'll need to bury bits behind the face of the fence. A typical router-table split fence works better, and I'd run it parallel to the front of the saw for greater convenience and work-piece control.

4. 
   Routerman | May 07, 2010 09:57am | #4

   PC 890 has the longest motor barrel of all fixed base routers. Enough up/down travel here for reasonable reach on a 5/8-3/4 thick table top with casting screwed right to it.

   More on this config.:  http://patwarner.com/router_table.html

5. 
   webby | May 07, 2010 02:25pm | #5

   I agree with Hammer1 about the tablesaw fence.

   what I did was make a lightweight auxiliary router fence that I clamped to my tablesaw fence. It was complete with dusct collection port, and was lightweight and portable, as I currently just have a bosch 4000.

   I followed another posters advice over at breaktime and cut support peices and a top to fit between the extension rails of the bosch making the table. It works great, and is super portable. 

   Since then I have built a newer heavier duty router table. Both tables use the rousseu router plate.