What’s the best material for a router table top ??
Melamine – MDF – Phenolic ?? or something completely different ??
In FWW “Tools & Shops” 2001/2002 they describe a router table build completely of MDF, but is MDF flat enough, how about friction and will it stay flat ?
Of course you could always make a new MDF table top when the old one is worn out or warped etc.
Another question; How big should the table be ? I’ve ordered the JessEm Rout-R-Lift so the table must be big enough for it to fit properly.
Please share your experience ??
BRGD’s
…. I Love the smell of sawdust in the morning….
Edited 9/26/2004 2:39 am ET by O. R. Hammer
Replies
I'm in the middle of making mine right now. I'm using Norm's plans with a few modifications. The plans calls for a 1/2" and 3/4" mdf sandwiched together with HP laminate with an oak band around the outside. I'm using two 3/4" pieces instead. After I flush trimmed the laminate and put a bevel edge, I placed a machinists straight edge on the top and was amazed at how flat it was. MDF will definitely do the job.
Most router table tops are compromises one way or another. But, I've found MDF to be acceptable. The slab in the picture link is 5/8" thick and the Bench Dog casting is screwed to its bottom.
Routerman,
I am impressed by your fence!
Could you post more pics along with a description?
Thanks,
Schmoll
Here is my set up. The top is made from 3/4" MDF laminated with HPL. It's attached to another piece of 3/4 particle brd. The router plate is the Jess'em universal plate, I have a Milwakee 3.5hp router on that. Basic dims are 25" x 49" x 35" high. This as you can see is at the end of my tablesaw outfeed table.
Also other shot of my shop just for fun.
"in the land of the blind the one-eyed man is king..."
RT fence.
I'm going to build a router table for for my PC 7518 but am curious how capable a setup is compared to the 1 1/2 hp Delta/ Jet/ Grizzly shapers. Or do you have to go up to 3 hp in a shaper to see any significant advantange vrs a router table?
Nice fence you got :-)
What kind of treatment did you give that MDF tabletop of yours, some kind of oil or varnish ??
The MDF table in FWW I mentioned is treated with Watco Oil, not specified, perhaps Danish Oil or some kind of linseed oil don't know..... I Love the smell of sawdust in the morning....
Piece in 144 FWW was sloshed watco x 3 coats .
I now use GF tung/urethane x 3 or 4 + paste wax. It is expected that router table tops see only those materials that have been through a sensible material prep schedule. As such, rough material with rocks & grit never booger up an MDF top.
The top at the link is 5 years old & with substantial service. Still in the +or-.002" flatness area and not scuffed enough to do anything about. Unusual and unexpected, but trivial and cheap.
Hello Routerman,
I am in need of a router table. Question is am I better off buying one or building one? I was just reading an article on the Finehomebuiding website. The router table they described was built from 1 thick 5/8 piece of MDF. The article mentioned that a base plate compromises any router table. It must be perfectly level to get a smooth transition from table to insert. Also went on to mention how some inserts may bend under load.
The edges of the router table in the Fine Homebuilding website was sealed with 3 coats of Watco Oil. If I don't have any Watco oil what else could I substitute for it?
Are router tables made from MDF board screwed to a base as good as the commercial ones you buy? LeeValley has a new Router table insert plate pictured in their 2004/2005 catalog. Costs $169.00 Canadian. It's specifically made for those who want to build their own router table. It comes with 4 plate supports 2 router clamps and the 12" steel plate. Apparently it's real easy to bring the plate flush to the table surface using the magnet-tipped thumbscrews in the supports.
To build or not to build that is the question. I can buy a really nice router table complete with a few drawers for $430 including taxes at a local tool shop. I"ve had my eye on it for some time. However, I don't really want to dish out that kind of money if I don't have to. If I can build a perfectly good router table using MDF that's what I'll do.
Wendy
There are merits to buying, as you might expect. And, in my view, whence one's time is factored, the mass produced router table is the better value x far. Notwithstanding, there are better reasons to make your own. You get smart and you get some woodworking experience. Even if you blow it, you're ahead. You'll know what's wrong with either (the production made RT, or your own) in no time and if you're the builder you can improve the next one. You may not be able to buy the improvements in a production table. Have a look a the RT link, for some figures of merit and safe routing, no matter how things turn out.
Wendy: Would you point me to router table tutorial at FHB link, please?
Thank you
Hi Routerman,
hope you're able to open this file. It's only a few paragraphs and there's a picture of the MDF router table. Think I'll just stick to a simple design. 4 legs, middle stretcher and 2 side stretchers on the bottom and 4 3 1/2 inch "aprons/skirts for the top. Think I might buy some preassure laminate and sandwich 2 3/4 inch pieces of MDF together with contact cement. Then edge with 1 1/2 inch maple and glue 2 pieces of laminate on the top and on the bottom.
Wendy
Let me know if thats the info you wanted.
Wendy:
I am the author of that piece. Can you navigate me to its location.
You mentioned Fine Homebuilding and I can't find it there.
PW
Hi,
The article I read wasn't in Fine homebuilding mag. My apologies. It was a FWW article. I've read so many it's hard to keep track. Go to the Taunton home page... type in (downside of base-plate inserts) in the search box. Search results will come up click on... 1. Fine Woodworking: The downside of Base Plate inserts.
So that article was written by you Routerman... Fence system is very complex What material did you buid the base out of? I was thinking of inserting 2 mini tracks in the top of the table for the fence and another one for a miter gauge. Not sure if that's necessary or not. If it's not worth the added expense I won't bother.
Wendy
The router table top is delicate; the less you insult it, the flatter it will remain. And flatness is critical if safety, precision, and quality cuts are your goals. Putting slots or windows in the slab may distort it, surely will change its native equilibrium. I would not slot it.
The fence in question provides for its own position. See the Routerfence link to see how this is done. Thanks for link & safe routing.,
Hi,
Thanks for the tip Routerman. I'm going to check out that router fence link now. If I decide to go with a solid hardwood edging around the table top how do I connect that to the MDF. With Brad nails? or is it just glued in place and then the top routered using a trim router bit? The edging and laminate look nice but I'm beginning to think they're not necessary. If I can get accurate cuts using a single piece of Thick 1 inch or 5/8th's MDF board that's what I will use. Certainly cut down on costs. Suppose I can do what you did... just cut out a hole large enough for the bit to fit through. No need to buy a $35.00 (Canadian funds) plate insert. There is something to be said for simplicity. :) Yours is the first router table I've seen that doesn't have a plate insert. I will be mounting my Porter Cable 690 fixed router to the top. What screws did you use to attach the router base to the table? My worst fear is having the router come away from the table top and crashing to the floor.
Wendy
Wendy1,
I'm a little intimidated to suggest anything here...I'm mean you are talking to Routerman here...what the hell do I know....lol. So let me call this a cautionary thought....I dropped a plate into my router table top (benchdog $20) and attached the router to the plate...when I need access to the router I can pull up plate and router together. If the router were attached directly to the router table top i think that would be problematic. My $.02 canadian...he,he
Hi,
That was very courageous of you BG. LOL So I have 2 different opinions. Yes, it would take a bit more time to change router bits having the router base screwed to the underside of the table. But I doubt it would take me that much longer to change bits All I have to do is remove the router motor from underneath the table. Little inconvenient I agree. I'm wasn't planning on buiding an enclosed router table. The one I had in mind has 4 sturdy legs with a bottom middle stretcher and 2 side stretchers on the bottom. I can always add an insert plate later if I find it too much of a pain changing bits.
What is the best router for mounting in a router table? plunge or fixed. I was planning on mounting my fixed router underneath the router table.
Wendy
Wendy1,
It sounds like a solid strategy. The plunge aspect of router in a table is worthless. As a matter of fact, that is what I was thinking of with my prior 'cautionary thought'...I had a problem with my plunge router under the table and had to pull the whole thing out. It was a problem you would not have with a fixed base router.
BTW, CMT makes offset wrenches for changing router bits without removing the router from under the table....the wrenches are router specific. good luck
Before the plunge router, all router casting were screwed to the bottom of the work top. The plunger, with its motor head and casting as a single unit, prompted the windowed router table top.
Notwithstanding, your 690, in 5/8 MDF, needs (3) 10-24 x 1" flat head machine screws to fasten to top. Screw hole circle=4.640".
Routers
hi,
Routerman, If I can't find 5/8" thick MDF what size machine screws would I need for 3/4 " or 1" thick MDF? I'll go with the 1" if I can find it.
Wendy
1/2" material requires a 3/4" screw; add 1/4" for each 1/4" additional thickness increment.
Routers and Screws
HI Routerman,
Not sure if I've asked you this already but here goes.... Do you screw down through the top or up through the bottom of the MDF board when attaching the router base to the table?
The picture in Patrick Spielman's book showed the screws countersunk coming down through the top.
Wendy
You may lose a router held only by threads in MDF.
You must screw down through top; lets screw heads hold the casting.
Routers, screws and some advice, often contarian.
HI Routerman,
Thanks again for responding so quickly to my post. I have a lot of reading to do before I commit myself to building a router table. So far I've managed to get along without a rt. The porter cable 690 is great for rounding over edges, jointing boards/trimming and cutting dadoes. I've mostly used it for straightline routing. I've only used my plunge router for cutting mortices. I have yet to do any kind of pattern cutting. It's becoming one of my favorite tools. One I use quite often. Don't know how I lived without one for so long.
OMG! It's going to Take me a week to look through all the information on your webpage. LOL I'm very impressed! I've certainly come to the right place for advice on routers.
Wendy
PS..... Is an 8 lb 1 1/2 hp router considered a lightweight? good for free routing but not so great for under a router table. I suppose if I want to eventually make my own baseboards I'd need a more powerful 2 1/2 hp router. Hitachi has a new router coming out very soon. it got rave reviews. Apparently they don't make that many tools but the ones they do make are quite good at a resonable price. What's your favorite router?
Router table work can be rigorous. It is much easier to push a stick past the cutter than to lug a 10 pound tool on a clamped down stick and rout. As such we may unwittingly overload a light table router and burn it up. If the work (router table) is sustained, much>3/8 x 3/8 (stock removal/pass), and big cutters routine: Get a 3 HP router.
Best router. Latest North American Inventory at ~70 fixed base, trimmers, and plungers. I use about 20. They are largely job specific but the sweetest hand tool is DW-621 and the Milwaukee 5625 is the friendliest inverted. Heavy work, fixed base, PC 7518, trimmer of choice PC 310, and best PK for this woodworker: DW 618. Many others chosen for their specialty features are not forgotten. PC 890, eg, has the longest motor barrel (with collet nut extension) of all fixed base routers.
Routers & routers
Hi,
I'm almost too tired to be online this evening. LOL Tired out from installing and chaulking baseboards not to mention hauling and lifting furniture.
One last question concerning R/Tables.... How much overhang would you recommend? I figure a 4 " overhang will provide plenty of surface for clamping fences and hold-downs.(featherboards)
For now I'll just make the fence out of standard 2X4 pine, planed and jointed. with "horns" on both ends for clamps. I can always upgrade to an adjustable fence later on. Not sure if I want to go with an enclosed base or an open style base. Probably go with 1/2 " MDF for the sides if I choose to go that way.
Wendy
Overhang=unsupported top=cupping. Flatness is critical for close and predictable cutttings.
Overhang is nice and useful but not for this operator. I have ~5/16/side.
Router table
Hi Routerman,
Have another question for you concerning router table tops. Ok I know I have to screw down through the top. Would be real easy if I were predrilling and screwing into wood/plywood. Screws don't have the same holding power in MDF. What's the best way to predrill and screw into MDF? How do you "tap" for screws????
Wanda
Wendy,
Use threaded inserts. They are easy to install and provide greater holding power. For particle board or MDF, I would use the type that are taper and mount from the rear(back side of the material). When the bolt is insert the draw force is enhance since the tapered insert can only advance a slight amount.
One idea you might consider.
Doug
My router table is inspired by, but not so elaborate as, Routerman's. I used an MDF box with several MDF tops having different sized bit holes. The top is supported at the edges (maybe 1" overhang) and by several ribs, as well as corner blocks. The top is screwed down through oversized holes in the corner blocks into blocks of wood below, to allow for expansion and contraction. The screws hold well, and if they were to strip out, I'd just need to replace the blocks. The original plan had been to add a hardwood edge to support the top overhang, but it's functional as is.
When fastening 2 things together we only thread one of them. The element that receives the head of the screw gets a pilot hole for the threaded portion of that screw (no threads). That hole can be as close or as sloppy as you'd like. With punches and stuff I'm able to drill a pilot hole the same size as the major diameter of the screw. For starters, however, may I recommend a 1/64th or more of slop. So for 1/4 cap screws drill 17/64" pilot holes in the MDF. Drill what you can on the drill press.
The tapping would occur in the framing under the top. To most, tapping wood would be a frivolity. For this teck, I get the advantage of the indestructable socket head cap screw (a fancy hi-tensile fastener for metalworking), very high pull strength and I can unwind/rewind more than I can with a wood screw. How to tap, please see FWW Sept/Oct '97 for freebie or the magazine for low cost alternative with a pix sequence.
*************************************
Hi Routerman,
I am trying to locate that article. F/W Sept/oct. issue. So far no luck. pictures would be helpful. LOL I've never heard of a cap screw let alone seen one.
Wendy
Wendy, I am making Norms router table with MDF. I modified his design just a tad. I used two pieces of 3/4 mdf. It is flat I checked with a machinists square. It is wrapped in 7/8 oak and the two pieces of mdf are joined with glue and #8 1" Dri Lube screws (see woodcraft) I used a counter sink bit to drill a pilot hole. Worked great. I am going to use woodpeckers router lift but its basically the same deal as the route-r-lift that you have. I put the Formica top on and flush trimmed with the router. Put a 45 chamfer. The top is heavy but very flat. I'm almost done. My plate came with a mdf template to use to cut the top for the plate. I don't know if the Router lift has one or not, but you can make them. Good luck
Hi,
Thanks everyone for your input. To cut costs I'm going to go with an open design instead of building drawers. Nothing fancy like Norm's. I'll stick with a 5/8" MDF top.
Wendy
See router or shaper.
To be sure, long duty, big cutters and more sophisticated fixturing required when shaping.
Another option, which I have used, is to go to a shop that fabricates kitchen counter tops. They will sell very reasonable (or even give away), the kitchen sink cutouts. These are 3/4 PB with melamine already laminated to them. You can probably even choose a color that you like.
I second qov's response. You can get a sink or range cutout of a laminated or solid-surface kitchen coutner for a couple of bucks. They're heavy and flat easily workable with your tools. The place to which I went had a whole stack of them that they were saving just for this purpose.
I laminated 2 pieces of 1" MDF, applied a plastic laminate top, mitered the corners and edge banned with maple. The overall size was 36 x 24. A 3.5 router and lift is pretty heavy so I thought the extra thickness would resist sagging.
Doug
Here's my take on your three basic choices, which is pretty much a summation of the previous posts:
GOOD: MDF, varnished and waxed. for the sake of appearance you could also use something like birch plywood with a "fiber" core (which is just MDF).
BETTER: A melamine sheet, reinforced on the bottom with either ply or MDF.
BEST: MDF sheet which you apply a piece of high pressure laminate (Formica, Wilsonart, etc.). This would be the most durable option, but it is also somewhat more time consuming and expensive.
You could either install ribs along the edges of your top -- with a couple in the middle -- or simply glue a second sheet of MDF to the bottom. The latter would be my choice, for strength and low deflection -- unless you need a top that is more easily portable (say for taking it to job sites). In this case a single sheet would work okay if you are using a router in the 1 1/2 - 2 hp range. But if you are using a large router with your Jessem, I would reinforce the underside in one fashion or another.
good luck...............................
Hammer,
Some of the solutions are a bit of an overkill...depending on how you design your cabinet. With the New Yankee Wokshop design (sorry, that is my only reference) there are supports for the top and the span of the critical supports is fairly narrow...perhaps even closer that the JessEm 14.5" metal top. The point being, the rest of the route table top would be under very little weight stress. Perhaps the best top is Formica(hard wearing) with MDF or something like that...with 24x36 a good size. I used melamine with hardboard because I plan to replace it when I get a lift system....good luck
My original (and still current) table top is a torsion box made from poplar and 1/4" ply wood, surfaced with a sheet of melamine.
My next table top will be 1 to 1 1/2 inch thick MDF coated with shellac, with screw inserts set at various points for attaching temporary jigs, fences, etc. I use shellac-coated MDF for other surfaces (TS rip fence, drill press station, many jigs) and find it durable and low friction. Easy to repair, too!
Paul
I think the best would be cast iron. But two layers of MDF + laminate is pretty good second best.
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