Replies

1. 
   BG | Jan 25, 2005 11:37pm | #1

   docxmas,

   I'm in the process of replacing my router table top where I used a benchdog insert (plastic?)and attached a Dewalt 621.  I just noticed that the insert has warped and its only been in there about 18 months.  I can't recommend a table but I'd stay away from anything with a plastic insert.

    

2. 
   MPHarper | Jan 26, 2005 01:45am | #2

   Save yourself the time and money and build the table and fence yourself. You can do it faster and cheaper than spending the next two weeks trying to find the perfect table and lift.

   Get a sheet of 1" thick MDF drill a 2" hole in it. Take the base plate off the PC router mark the hole locations drill and countersink the screw holes and bolt the router to the table. Then put a few coats of poly on the table and wax it.

   Build the fence out of the left over MDF you will have plenty to make sacfifical fences. It takes about 3 hours and will only cost you about $30.00

   Take the $300.00 bucks you save and buy some nice router bits. 

   I can send you plans and photos if you want them. It's a great system and has everything that any store bought table will have. 

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 26, 2005 01:51am | #3

   Take the $300.00 bucks you save and buy some nice router bits.....  

   Get a Vertical Raised panel bit. I found is much easier and seemed much safer. COuld be just me though.

2. 
   DocXmas | Jan 26, 2005 03:55am | #9

   Great Ideas, and I am sold on building my own.  I have also heard to laminate two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood for the top what are you thoughts on that?  I would really appreciated the plans and photos.

    

   Rod

    

3. 
   Castlewerks | Jan 26, 2005 02:11am | #4

   If I may add to the recomemendation to the MDF top... buy a 2'x4' piece of countertop laminate/formica at Home Depot (kitchen counterop section) -- it'll cost you $10. Cover the MDF with this using contact cement/lamianet adhesive. The top will take a lot more abuse than the MDF alone, is slick and easy to clean (glue, etc...) -- also only adds maybe 1/16" to the thickness

   I believe you said that you bought a 3 1/4 HP router -- that's a heavy machine. You may want to attach some angle iron to the bottom of the table to prevent flex in the top. I would suggest that you by a router plate rather than mount the router base to the bottom of the table (you lose available bit height this way). Also (I know I'm rambling) you may want to pick up a router table plate (Rockler, etc...maybe $30) this will allow you to use various inserts and lift the entire router out of the table if you so desire.

   Cheers,

   Michael

4. 
   bones | Jan 26, 2005 02:37am | #5

   I built my table, and bought the lift & fence. I ended up going with Wood peckers precision router lift. For the table, I took Norm's router table plans and made some mods. I bought the Incra twin linear fence. I got it used here on knots. I want to do dovetails and it provides a good sturdy fence that is accurate and has good dust collection. For the top, I used two pieces of 3/4 mdf sandwiched together and edged in oak. The mdf is flat and I laminated Formica on top. It's as sturdy as it comes. Here is a link to the finished product. By the way, I considered buying a table, but in the end I'm glad I didn't. I like mine, and I had fun building it. 

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=20473.1

5. 
   BrentS | Jan 26, 2005 02:43am | #6

   Hi,

    As you said you want to buy and not build a table and fence.I've been using the Jessem set up for a few years and find it great.The master lift is as fine a tool as you could want, the fence is solid and easily adjusted and the table top is a good size for what you want to do,also the stand is a heavy and stable bonus.

          I have'nt tryed the new system with the height adjustment on the front of the table.My concern with it is that in the process of making a cut you might bump the hand wheel and put it out of alighnment, but I'm sure the folks at Jessem have taken this into consideration when designing it.

     Anyway, it is expensive but from my experience with it ,it will last my life time and then some.Oh yeah,another thing about it is above the table bit changes.

                                                         Good Luck,

                                                                  Brent

    

6. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Jan 26, 2005 02:53am | #7

   Hi Doc,

   I'm with the others...build your own.  I am..after buying the rockler plate with the flimsy MDF table..just didn't last.

   I'm starting with Norm's plans, but want the ability to mount two routers vs. one...for cope and stick bits, etc.

   I know you don't have the experience you think that you need..but how else to get it?

   Good luck~

   lp

7. 
   dlb | Jan 26, 2005 03:40am | #8

   O.K., I'll be the lone wolf tonight. I purchased a Sommerfeld table top with fence and a PC 3 1/4 router. THEN I made my router cabinet (does that get me any points?) using my new setup. I got the model w/o an insert and would agree about them sagging. I personally feel that a cast iron top is the best but the ones that I saw were too small. After reading the other posts I know that if I outlive this router top I will build my next one.

   dlb

   .

    

   The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

8. 
   bones | Jan 26, 2005 03:57am | #10

   I just receieved my latest issue of American Woodworker has plans for a router table that is pretty interesting (I would use MDF for the top), and they review router lifts.  May be worth checking out. 

9. 
   forestgirl | Jan 26, 2005 08:50am | #11

   "have made the decision to purchase rather than build a router table."

   Just thought I'd repeat that for you, LOL!  My suggestion:  Veritas, Veritas, Veritas.  Solid steel table top, you can build a cheap little benchtop base for it, or a full-blown cabinet, or both.  Very reasonably priced, dead flat (and will stay that way), universal router mounting beneath, so no special plates to buy.  All the accessories are reasonable also.  I've had 3 or 4 people email me over the past 2 years thanking me for recommending this router table.  They ordered it, set it up and were quite happy with it.  Click here for web page.

   I have mine hinged to the left wing of my table saw, folds down when I need space.  Next step (whenever) is to build a cabinet with drawers and dust collection for it. 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   DocXmas | Jan 26, 2005 04:48pm | #12

   How do you have it attatched?  What router do you have in the table?  This was what I orignally wanted to do but could not find a reasonable system that looked like it would work.

    

   Thanks f

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 26, 2005 08:49pm | #14

   Hi docxmas, I made up a 3-page web presentation after I restored and mounted my used Veritas top.  I'll give the link below, but keep in mind that I now have cast iron wings on my table saw, so I have the 2x2 mounting clamped to the wing rather than screwed on.

   The "basic base" for a Veritas table top is extremely easy to make, or you can get elaborate if you want.  OK, here's the link.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   forestgirl | Jan 26, 2005 08:53pm | #15

   PS:  If you're pinching pennies, you can get just the table top and make a simple wooden fence.  However, if you have the dough, I'd strongly recommend getting the top, fence and sled as a package.  Personally, I can't see spending money on the base because it's so easy to build one.

   Also, on my Page 2, third picture, note the puck-like discs I used instead of the wood spacers their design specified.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   Cheatah | Jan 27, 2005 07:06pm | #17

   FG:

   I saw that the Vertas RT was about 16" x 24". Is that big enough to do most routing jobs? I thought it was on the small side. I would appreciate hearing more about it.

   Also, how would you attach it to a table? -- adhesive, clamps, ....?

   thanks

   MarkThank you,

   The Great Marko

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 27, 2005 09:24pm | #19

   Hi Marko.  As to size, I guess it depends on what kind of work you're doing.  More experienced folk that myself should respond here, but perhaps if you were doing larger frame and panel work you would need support further out from the bit.  The person I bought it from had made a much larger tabletop, and essentially dropped the steel top into the larger piece. 

   Veritas has since made a round insert plate that has their clamping system but is designed to be put into a "regular" router table.  They also have made adapters for their fence to do the same thing.

   You don't actually "attach" this top to a table.  It's designed to nest into a support frame (did you look at my pictures?  It's pretty clear there.)

   [those underlined thingies are links to the items mentioned; LMK if you have more questions!]forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Cheatah | Jan 28, 2005 12:17am | #23

   FG:

   Thanks for the insight. Right after I sent my initial messaage to you, I found the link that you gave on the following post that explained everything. I should have read all the posts first. Haste makes waste.

   Thanks again--

    

   MarkThank you,

   The Great Marko

10. 
    sailalex | Jan 26, 2005 05:23pm | #13

    I am one of those to whom Forestgirl recommended the Veritas table top and I am EXTREMELY happy with it. They have a number of accessories but I just made the stand (very clear plans in their manual) and use a hardwood fence. In retrospect, I think I should have gotten the fence package but what I have works fine. Also, the tilt top stand makes a router lift sort of useless.

11. 
    nikkiwood | Jan 27, 2005 09:48am | #16

    I'll add my voice to others saying "build, don't buy".

    It really is easy.

    For a fence system, I'd like to put in a plug for the Jointech outfit. I have used one for years, and it is the cat's meow.......

    http://www.jointech.com/dovetailjig.htm

12. 
    TominNC | Jan 27, 2005 07:40pm | #18

    Has anyone either done this, or know anyone who has and either likes or dislikes it?  I am getting ready to buy a 50" unifence for my unisaw and was thinking about mounting a router plate in the extension table so that I may use the fence at least as a base for a router fence.  What are your recommendations?  Forestgirl, I went to your webpage and saw what you did and like it a lot, but I am not sure if I have the romm on the left side of my saw, especially after I add this 50" fence to the right side.  You said it is now clamped to the wing instead of hinged?  Does that work well for you or do you plan to hinge it later?

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 27, 2005 09:35pm | #20

   Hi Tom, actually it's still hinged, but rather than being bolted to the wing, it's clamped.  I'm still on the fence as to whether I'll leave it on the wing or make a stand-alone cabinet for it, so I haven't drilled any holes in the wings yet.  (In case you missed it, the pictures are of my old steel wings, which had pre-drilled holes in them that I could use for this.  The present cast iron wings will have to be drilled.)

   The clamps work fine -- they are large C-clamps.  Keep in mind the table has legs supporting the front edge.  I think I'll make supports for the back side too.

   Keep an eye out below -- I'll post a sketch.

   PS:  Sorry the links to Lee Valley on that page are outdated.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   forestgirl | Jan 27, 2005 09:47pm | #22

   Here's a (rough) sketch, looking down.  (You can see why I need a 3D CAD program, eh?)

   Tom you could think about making the benchtop base also.  There are so many different ways you can set up this top.  You could hing it to some other surface in your shop even -- the front of a countertop where you rarely access the area underneath.

   View Imageforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   sailalex | Jan 28, 2005 05:30pm | #24

   Tom, I tried putting the router under the table saw extension and found it to be a royal pain in that you have to get underneath to make adjustments. I suppose you could make a big enough hole to get a lift underneath but I found the Veritas top on a bench type stand to be fine.

13. 
    JohnG | Jan 27, 2005 09:47pm | #21

    I would check the ones available at http://www.woodpeck.com.  I built my own table but use their plate and plunge life for my router.  The do have total packages.

     

    Another option is space is limited for you.  Buy a table that fits the wing on your table saw.  Eventually I will build one for my router.

    
    

    ---

    Edited 1/27/2005 1:51 pm ET by woodworksutah

14. 
    tufenhundel | Jan 28, 2005 05:41pm | #25

    docxmas:

    If your main goal here is to do raised panels, why not consider a shaper?  I don't want to restart the shaper vs. router table debate here, but if you are looking to buy a router table setup, you may want to at least check out what kind of shaper you could get for a commercial router table price.  Doing raised panel would be a bit easier.

15. 
    Wilson | Jan 28, 2005 06:46pm | #26

    For about $600 you can get a grizzly 1 1/2 horsepower shaper. This gives you the micro adjusting fence, hold downs, accurate and table cast ground table and other accessories. The stabillity and vibration dampening of the heavy table improves the cut. You can get the router attachment spindle and use your router bits just like a router table. More importantly you can use shaper cutter sets. For making raise panel door, the shaper cutters are easier to use, set up and produce a superior product (opinion).