I am in the market for a router table. I don’t have time to build one.
If money were not an option ( it is to a degree, but to get an idea of what is the best, let’s say it is not) what brand should I buy?
Seems I have read that Bench Dog came out among the best.
Anyone have experience and comparison opinions?
Alan – planesaw
Replies
Another one that people rave about is the metal top job from Lee Valley/ Veritas
HTH,
Monte
http://www.porta-nails.com/datasheets/router_table.pdf
I have three of the Porta-nails universal router tables. High quality, well built, all aircraft structural polished aluminum, not too expensive. A good value. I especially like the ability to attach the router to the joint maker. It allows you to mount the router so it comes in sideways, parallel to the table, making it possible to make tenons that are accurate, predictable, and repeatable. It is also possible to set it up as a pin router with the optional attachment. Billy Gear
Alan,
The router tables I've seen all seem to do the job pretty well. The real difference appears to be in the add-ons that you may be interested in...lift systems, joinery systems, etc. From just a physical case perspective, I'm not sure I like the shortness of the fense...difficult to attach featherboards to hold stock down. ...but I don't know if anyone has a tall fense to accomodate featherboards.
Alan
I have a Rockler top which is OK. The real answer I have found is the Router Lift I purchased from Woodpeckers. It is a dream - can change bits from the top of the table (I run the router up with a piece of hex rod in my drill motor), can adust height to a fraction of a hair manually. I also bought their under-table enclosure. It has a blast gate and a 4" exhust connection. Not a speck of (router table) dust in the shop since I installed it.
Jerry
Alan
I think in the end it comes down do how much you are prepared to do yourself after you open the box.
Some people will buy a router, attach it to a piece of 3/4 ply with stiffening ribs and clamp the whole assembly to their bench. I know a respected maker who does just this. To perform a micro adjustment of the fence he uses a plane adjusting hammer and gives the fence a "calibrated" tap. No so long ago he upgraded to a laminate faced table and fence. Other people build a dedicated stand for their router with a commercial fence and either a shop built or commercial router lifting mechanism. If these people need a tall fence, they just build one.
What table is best is an almost impossible question. I suspect the answer is something along the lines of:
get brand name router judged by FWW, or this forum, as the "best" router for mounting under a table
get brand name router lift to make height setting easy
get brand name router fence, and accessories
get brand name mitre track
get brand name mitre guage, plus accessories
build a table to suit these components, the work space, and the type of work you want to do.
If you don't have the time to build your own table, I suggest you pay an experienced, skilled woodworker to build one for you. Please don't think I'm being judgemental. Far from it. I recognise that for many of the WWers who visit this forum the objective is the crafting of a finished piece not the construction of the tools you need to get there. Opening the package from Warren Maine, honing the blade and getting into the project is far more satisfying than spending half a precious weekend tuning a Stanley, in an attempt to have it do the same job. I've done both and know which I prefer.
Ian
now that was a bit longer than I intended when I started.
I'm one of the Veritas table fans, and so is Brian -- he has the table and the fence, and has used it for more tasks than I have. This table is, IMO, the best functioning for the best price and long-term life. Link is below. Highlights are that it will stay dead-flat forever, you can mount any router to it without making any structural changes to the table, you can build a support for it that ranges anwhere from just a square frame hanging off your tablesaw to a full-blown cabinet, and you can turn it into a portable work-site router table in a flash.
The accessories are very reasonably priced and well made. The only downside I've found so far is that it can get a little crowded underneath when changing bits, etc. I just unscrewed the handles from my PC690 since I don't use it handheld anyway.
Don't let the lack of a miter track throw you off. It's not needed. (Bait, bait)
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=43885&category=1&SID=&ccurrency=2
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG, here's another option for an all in one package http://www.triton.net.au/products/rt_2.html and it all stacks flat when not in use! One of the highest regarded features is the sliding table. I'll see if I can track down some reviews and a US sales rep.
Interesting arrangement, Ian. Any idea what the price tag is US?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG, would you believe $320 from Amazon.com ? According to the manufacturer's site, http://www.tritonwoodworking.com/ Woodcraft at 5963 CORSON AVE. S., STE. 120 SEATTLE stock them.
Ian
Thanks to everyone who has replied.
Monte & Forestgirl, I have heard good things about the Veritas. One of my concerns was not having the mitre track. Think I would use one.
Billy, Hadn't heard of Porta-nails. Will keep my eye out for them at woodworking shows.
Jerry, I had looked at Rout R Lift.
Ian, You didn't come across as judgmental.
The final decision (until the next decision, anyway) --
After reading the replies that had come in by lunch, I went to my local Woodcraft (a good bunch of experienced, knowledgeable staff here) and talked things through with one of the guys there. Told him I didn't want to take time to build a table, needed to buy the cabinets and go from there.
(I don't do woodworking full time. On weekends I manufacture simple country-style picture frames for my wife's business. She either buys raw picture frame molding or rough lumber, depending on what she wants made. I then make about 8,000 a year, plus some custom framing, for her. She buys prints, cuts her own glass, mats the prints, paints or stains the frame molding and then travels about 20 to 22 weekends a year throughout about eight states to big craft shows and sells frames and prints. All that to say that since weekends are the only time I have to do any woodworking I need to get the tool I need and begin using it.)
Over the past couple of months I have looked through catalogs and magazines. Checked out the various big box stores. Checked out Woodcraft, Woodworker's Warehouse, Grizzly and Wilke Machinery. Talked to a variety of people. Looked at Rout-R-Lift and other ways of lift the router. Etc., Etc., Etc.
Well, long story short, I walked out with a Mast-R-Lift by JessEm and a PC router. Headed over to Home Depot and bought a 3/4 inch piece of 16 ply plywood (they had it same price as regular plywood) and have proceeded to build my own cabinet. For the time being it will be a bench top unit as I don't have any floor space to give up.
This will give me the benefit of seeing if the size table top I start with (24 x 32) is what I want to keep. And at about $35 for the cabinet, I won't hesitate to change it if I need to. Already have the space for the Mast-R-Lift cut out. Will put in a track for a mitre and just clamp something for a fence for the time being.
Thank you all for taking time to give me your thoughts.
Alan -- planesaw
Alan,
Just curious, Woodcraft had a special (couple of weeks ago) on that included the jessem, PC router and top/panel that fit into the Jet TS ..did they offer that deal to you?
BG,
I did look at what you are talking about. They had one in place in a Jet saw extension table. Also, I did a fair amount of just looking at several setups they had -- JessEm's components and complete setup, same for Bench Dog, Porter Cable table, Woodcraft's, etc.
Don't recall them having mentioned anything about a special on the Jet/JessEm setup. Not sure it would have made a big difference though. Don't know what the special was, but ten percent off on something won't get me to buy it. 40 to 50 percent off something I want/need or think I might use and it could be an easy sale. If I don't want something, or see how I would ever use it, I don't care if it is free I won't take it.
Should I ask what the "special" was?
Alan -- planesaw
Alan,
The special was probably over...I think it consisted of the jessem, PC router 1 3/4 hp (?) and the jet board insert which fits the jessem plate...think it was either $350 or $375. I don't know how that compares with what you did get...
Now that your good to go...down the road you may want to look at Norm's router table ..and just put your new top on it....takes two sheets of 3/4 ply to build...maybe a days worth of effort.....but it is a good size and you mentioned space was at a premium
Thanks for the heads up on Norm's router table. Took a look at the photo of it. I do like the idea of all the storage it provides. Also, the size probably makes it quite stable, minimal vibration.
I do like it, but it takes up too much real estate for me now. We joke that our shop is so small and crowded that we have to go outside to think. That forces us to keep things relatively well organized.
I keep thinking that there is a better way to rearrange things and I will come up with about 50 more square feet. Hasn't worked yet.
Thanks,
Alan - planesaw
Alan,
I know what you mean about space constraints. I had made a deal with myself that I'd build the router table and a drop down outfeed table for the TS... and do away with the roll-around outfeed table....a tradeoff for increased utility.
After building the new stuff I got involved in making a A&C end table. It was so nice having the roll-around table to sticker and stack the pieces...the workbench free to cut mortices and dovetails...and the drop down outfeed table for assembly. That was a month ago, guess what is still rolling around the shop. Besides, I have 2 1/2 other places to think in the house...lol.
I would go and check out Woodhaven they got some pretty good stuff.
Darkworksite4: Subterráneo en la república de gente de Calif
Not familiar with Woodhaven. Where are they located?
BG, I have an old aluminum, 2-tier cart (probably from the 1950's) that works great for stacking workpieces, and it folds flat when finished. I've been considering making a wood one after the same design, one that's bigger.
I'll send you a picture if you want, but a quick description: The two shelves are hinged lengthwise down their middles. When it's folded up, the shelves go up (like a butterfly's wings), and the sides, which are brass tubing, fold inward kindof clamping the shelves closed. It has casters in the ends of the brass tubing.
It's very light and is only about 2-1/2" thick when folded up. A wood one would necessarily be heavier, but if it was designed to double as an outfeed table, that would be a good thing.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG, Your table reminds me of a medical procedure table from the fifties....love to get a look see.
My roll around table is now consuming the space for my future bandsaw...so it will have to go sooner or later. The trouble is it is so convienent having an extra table in the space...I attached the metal vice on a corner, it can slide under the drill press and really helped when I drilled through 3/8"x3" stove bolts to build the frame saw...
If I could just move the 250 gal oil tank out of the corner....sigh
Love it. We, also, have two and a half "libraries."
I thought about making the router table as a drop down leaf off the table saw, to double as an outfeed table. Couple of issues with taking the fence off and on and how to attach the fence, but that could be worked out. Just thought it was a bit too risky to have the router lift exposed to getting banged while hanging down.
Tenatively, I plan to build the router table next to my radial arm saw and at the same height so that I can use either tool (not at the same time, of course) and have a wider surface area. That will mean elminating a couple of shelves on the wall (where the router table would go), but I think I have it worked out where that stuff will go.
Thanks again for your input.
Appreciate everyone's wisdom.
Alan -- planesaw
Jessem. or Jointech, which is made by Jessem. I've had em all. If you are into precision, then get a set up that does NOT require you to ever remove the router from the table. Every time you remove the router from the table dust and wear cause the mounting plate to offset from the table surface. Ideally the entire top would be of one flat peice with a hole in it. Jessem has recognized the flaws with the conventional methods of mounting routers and has relased a new top with an integrated lift. The top is 3/4 inch phenolic. The slightest bit of bow in the top will reveal itself when you rout large peices as the bit will not remove an even amount of material down the length of the board. I'd really recommend taking the time and building your own cabinet. I built something like what Jointech sells the plans for. I made it of 3/4 MDF and painted it with hammerite. It weights about a hundred pounds, is vibration free, very quiet, and has tons of storage.
Good luck.
Wow, 16 ply, 3/4 plywood? Never heard of it, and hard to believe it's the same price. The oddball pattern makers BB, 14 ply(even number), for opposing grain glue ups runs about $110 dollars a sheet around here.
If you're doing 8,000 frames a year, did you consider a shaper? Overall price really isn't an issue when you consider all the add ons to a router table, and while the cutters cost substantially more, they last much longer between sharpenings, and will take more sharpenings. In the end, shaper cutters and router bits are a wash. Another issue would be not having the screaming univeral motor. You'd have also gotten your track. I know you've already bought, just curious if you considered this route at all.
Don
Don,
Apparently a typo on my part - 14 ply. Don't know why they had it priced that way, but they did. Only 3 pieces, but I bought all 3. Haven't bought it before, but knew it was better than regular ply. Maybe somebody at their supplier sent a few wrong sheets.
Yes, we do have a shaper. That is what I make the rabbets on. Also, do other heavy shaping/cutting on it.
The router table will be for decorative edges, chamfers, short radius roundover, etc., which we will do on some but not all molding. Also, for things that we won't be making hundreds of feet of or hundreds of the same thing.
And, yes, the noise gets loud. Turn on a saw or other tool, turn on the dust collector, and the JDS room filter -- it adds up. We routinely wear hearing protectors.
Thanks for your thoughts. Knots Forum is a great place to get quality feedback (positive and negative) on what one has done or thinking about doing.
Alan -- planesaw
That is what I did -- JessEm Mast R Lift and the corresponding PC router that will stay with it. Will substantially brace the top so that it will stay level. This will give me a substantial cabinet at an inexpensive price, so that over time I won't hesitate to either build a better one, or go buy something better.
Thanks,
Alan -- planesaw
Edited 9/29/2003 10:26:28 PM ET by Alan
I made my own router table out of scrap....not sure if I have the plans now....however mine is 20x30 ... make sure you make it.if you make it thre correct height...try this site ROUTER WORK SHOP...they have tons of stuff for you to try..
Hope this helps you....
Beck2512
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