Replies

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jan 27, 2007 04:52pm | #1

   Go for it!

   I put mine on the right side as I wanted more surface than the left side provides (10" Delta Contractors saw) and I have a Bies fence.  I made a fixture/fence that saddles the saw fence for the router.  Since I have an older Hitachi TR12 I am ordering a Router Raizer for a lift system.  

   Hope to have it installed this week.  Good luck with yours.  You might consider duoble layering the MDF or a torsion box arrangement might get the stiffdness you're looking for.  You also might consider topping it with laminate as well.

   Regards,

    

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   Kidderville, NH

    

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Jan 27, 2007 05:10pm | #2

   I made an outfeed table/router table for my Unisaw a few years ago. Mounted on the brackets you see in the attached photos, it was 3/4" Birch plywood. It was very stable - the entire unit was about 5' x 5' and rolled easily on a HTC mobile base.

   I wanted to reposition the router insert so I ordered a custom router top from Woodpeckers (same size, different Tee slots), This top is 1 3/8" thick and weighs 90#. When I added undermount drawers to hold bits, etc. it became a little unstable, so I mounted a 1/2" pipe leg with 2 pipe flanges to steady it. WEhen I want to move the saw, I just screw up the lower pipe flange and the 1/4" clearance allows me to roll the unit.

   Frosty

   
1. 
   user-231455 | Jan 28, 2007 06:07am | #8

   Thanks to all for the suggestions. Frosty's idea about building it on an outfeed table with angle braces is a good one. Thanks for the pictures. Doing it this way also serves two purposes. Sounds like without something like this, sag is a problem....even with doubling-up the MDO. I do plan to leave the router in place. As much as I hate to take up more space with it, maybe a separate router stand/station on mobile base/casters is a better way to go (I've seen recent plans and one was designed to use as a rolling cart or outfeed table). The idea about a cast iron extension to the saw is also interesting. Thanks again everyone. 

   Blund

3. 
   jeanlou | Jan 27, 2007 09:24pm | #3

   B Lund

   There is no reason for it not to work. As a stiffener under the table I would suggest steel angles. Two of them, one on each side of the router (with a bit of clearance), will give you the best stiffening effect. Flat plate will still flex.  JL

4. 
   BG | Jan 27, 2007 09:56pm | #4

   B Lund,
   Will you be leaving the router in the setup when not in use? If so sag can become an issue. Initially, I put a 2 hp DeWalt in a Bench Dog plastic router plate and dropped the whole thing in two pieces of melamine 3/4" thick(ie. 1 1/2 thickness overall). After about 6 months it sagged. I bought a metal router plate from Rockler and changed the top to a 2" thick Formica laminated, top and bottom. Recently I dropped in the Triton 3.25 and its been working well...no sag...at least so far.

1. 
   coolbreeze | Jan 28, 2007 12:13am | #5

   The question is not if the table will sag. The question is how much and how soon. The suggestion to brace with angle Iiron is a good one. I had a Delta contractors saw and had a habit of leaving things on the table. When I couldn't run a !/4 ply (3/16) without the ply running under the fence I had to do something. The first thing I did was take the table off, turn it upside down and addded weight to force a return. I kept adding weight until I had a gazillion pound. It was mostly an exercise in futility. What little flattening I did accomplish, I braced with angle iron.

   I know you said you are space challenged so telling you what I did will not help. I do strongly urge you to brace first and get a lift where the router can easily be removed. Another thing you could consider is when you are not using the saw or router, you could use a wedge brace to counteract the weight.

   I wish you well.

5. 
   cadiddlehopper | Jan 28, 2007 01:16am | #6

   You said nothing about how much money you want to spend, but there are some router tables made of cast iron which attach to your saw just like an extension wing. That may make you happier if $$ is little problem. It will take less of your time to install also. More time for routing.

   As for the router, with such a setup there is easy access under the table. A router lift is probably superfluous no matter which router you buy. The worst problem is preventing the router from falling to the floor and suffering damage.

   Cadiddlehopper

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jan 28, 2007 03:55am | #7

   cadiddlehopper, (Like in Klem!),

   Please tell us more about these router tables made of cast iron.  I'm interested in fitting one to my 10" Delta Contractors saw.  If it can be fitted to a Router Raizer that is even greater!

   Regards,

    Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   Kidderville, NH

    

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   cadiddlehopper | Jan 28, 2007 07:08am | #9

   Bob,One of them is a Bench Dog brand. They can be bought from Amazon, maybe from Woodworkers' Supply. Look on ebay. I forget the brand of another. The Bench Dog can be mounted to a stand as well as to a saw. I bought the Bench Dog with melamine top. Even though the cast iron model is a tad smaller, I regret that I did not choose it instead. Live and learn. The reason for the regret is that the fence cannot be clamped as securely to the melamine as to cast iron. The first time I used it, the force from the router bit moved the fence.I use a Porter Cable (PC) 890 series router. Adjusting the cutter height from underneath is so easy that an expensive router lift is a waste of $$. I have the PC lift but never attempt to use it. I imagine that the same is true for other routers as well.Cadiddlehopper

1. 
   user-231455 | Jan 28, 2007 01:12pm | #10

   Thanks, Bob. I'll take a look at Bench Dog cast iron. While more $$ then what I had in mind, may be less hassle than going to the trouble and uncertainty (and need to add undermounted support of some type as suggested) of whether it will work without sag installed on my table saw extension that came with my Jet Xacta. How is the fence arrangement on the Bench Dog?

1. 
   SLOSapo | Jan 28, 2007 07:15pm | #12

   I don't know the price on the cast iron extension wing by Bench Dog, but Grizzly makes one that runs about $240 including shipping. The model number is H7507.

2. 
   cadiddlehopper | Jan 29, 2007 01:01am | #13

   "How is the fence arrangement on the Bench Dog?"I am not certain as I never saw one in the flesh (iron?) It seems to be the same as for the melamine top except slightly shorter. As I remember, it fastens in t-tracks or slots thru the cast iron. Of course, if you attach it to your saw, your saw fence is available also. FWW reviewed router tables recently. See issue #181. As to cost, around $320 was the price about a year ago.Cadid

3. 
   ottoparts | Jan 29, 2007 06:52am | #14

   Here's a picture of the Benchdog cast iron attachment. I took one side of the fence out of the slot so you can get a better view. I love mine. My shop is 192 sq ft, so I try to save space wherever I can. Mine is attached to a Crafstman TS and no problems. If you'd like more pictures or have more questions about my set up, let me know and I'll take whatever pictures I can to help you out.Enjoy!

   
6. 
   trm8r | Jan 28, 2007 06:59pm | #11

   Limited space I am familiar with. My shop is 11 feet wide so the router needed to go in the left tablesaw wing. I have built many of them on my old saw because evey one dished in the middle or started drooping on the end. I used an old stamped steel wing, baltic birch, and 2 layers of chipboard with laminate. They all worked but not very well.
   On my new saw I drilled a 2" hole in the castiron wing, cut and ground the webbing underneath to flat, removed the router baseplate and mounted it with the 3 baseplate screws. Put in a "V" groove bit to help find center then used a awl to scratch a center line(much easier to set the fence). I attached a piece of 6/4 hardwood to the outboard side so I could put in a miter slot. Then ,like another poster said, build a wide saddle over the fence(so you can bury the router bit). So far so good.