I’m starting to think about buying or building a router table. I’ve got a shaper, but would like something that will turn higher RPM for using smaller diameter bits. I will likely build the base myself, but what I’m trying to decide is whether to buy or build the top. My main concern about building a top is whether I can get it as flat as a commercially available top. Are the commercial tops just “standard” MDF or is there something “special” about them (i.e. machined flat by manufacturers, selected for flattness, etc.)? I’m aware that there are tops of other materials out there, but for some reason the MDF tops that I’ve found seem to be a bit bigger than tops of other materials and this aspect is important to me. The flatness of the top is important to me as well because I want to be able to make as tight and accurate joinery as possible.
I suppose the overall questions here are: If I build the top myself am I likely to get a top that is as flat as a commercially available top when we consider that I would likely laminate 2 pieces of MDF together for thickness/rigidity and then laminate a synthetic surface (formica?) to that for ease of moving stock across the table? Are there too many variables in this type of construction to end up with a superbely flat table?
Your input is appreciated.
Bob
Replies
Hi Bob,
I have a purchased "commercial top". It's just MDF with melamine on both sides.
Because it has a T-track inserted about 4 inches from the insert hole, the melamine moisture shield is broken on the top and big swings in moisture (such as we get here in Kentucky) tend to cause the top to become concave (sorry, not concave - convex) at times - not horribly so, but not FLAT none-the-less.
I have a Bosch top. Not hideously expensive, and has served me just fine. None the less, it has features that I'm not crazy about, and lacks others that I'd like. Which ones? Well, it uses it's own proprietary t-track that doesn't fit anything else on both the top and the fence. So none of my non-Bosch accessories work on it. Talk to anyone with a table and you'll get a different list of likes and dislikes - it's a personal thing.
Recommendation? Buy a cheap commercial top (that has a T-track that fits your accessories - you know, feather boards, hold down, etc - and discover what you like and don't like about it. Then make your own top with the features that you want and will actually use.
Mike
Edited 9/12/2006 4:55 pm ET by Mike
I would build cabinet and top myself. It may or may not be cheaper than some factories but it will be what I want in features, not what some bean counter thought I wanted.
For the top, glue up the MDF on the flattest surface you have. I use my tablesaw top. When laminating spread the cement evenly so you don't get mounds under the formica.
I made my insert from 1/4 aluminum. If the weight of your router can sag that It'll sag the top as well.
Bob_ADK
My two cents. Other than saving money, how valuable is your time? I've made two, and now use bought one. There is some satisfaction in custom making your own (recommend sink-cutouts from kitchen cabinet installer) but consider how much time it took to make my own, it wasn't worth it. Could have been making furniture. Also, for me, it was the fence that was the hard part, not the table top.
Build it - most are just cheap MDF. If you want to buy, look in the Want Ads, somebody is always trying to unload an expensive mistake. Saying that, I just bought a Grizzly, which costs about the same as the top shelf MDF models, but is build like a brick - well let's say that it is all metal and looks like more like a shaper that a router table. By the way, FW did a review of router tables a while back, and despite the magazine's need to play a fair hand, I found the review very helpful. You can find a copy in your local library. Check the FW index, then talk to your librarian - they do a whole lot more that stack books.
Bob, I was going to build my own, but needed to finish a project quickly that involved raised panels. I bought the $100.00 Ryobi and have a Makita 31/4 router in it and for the price it works great. If I eventually decide to build my own I would probably get the Veritas insert plate and fences. The ryobi has different sized insert rings dust collection etc. Try it. If you don't like it HD will take it back. I think it is important to have a flat table, a good router and great bits. This has two metal L-brackets that the table rests on. It also comes with 4 legs, but I hang it from 2X4's like a job-site table saw. This might be considered crude but it beats the router set-ups of the 18th century the golden -age of woodworking!
Paul T
Under "General Discussion" there is a thread "Router advice for beginner." You might find it interesting.
To get my Bench Dog top flat, I placed shims of veneer at strategic locations as I bolted it down. It was sway-backed by only a few thousandths which might have been OK. If you make your own top, you could achieve flatness the same way. I wanted a top with no insert. Very hard to find, then I didn't like them for some reason. As someone else suggested, the fence is the hard part. If you don't require micrometer adjustments, ready-made fences are worth the money. I am pleased with my Bench Dog fence.
I didn't like t-tracks penetrating the melamine or weakening the MDF. You could make a top of MDF which is varnished heavily on both sides & has no insert. I also like the idea of mounting a router base permanently & removing the motor if I need to. Consider 2 layers of 1/2-inch MDF for the job.
Cadiddlehopper
Go to http://www.patwarner.com and read what I consider to be the best advice on router tables, tops and fences. I struggled with router table inserts for years and the inevitable sagging. Pat's advice cured it all, essentially a 3/4" MDF top over a torsion box with the router bolted directly to the top. Zero sag, very sweet and low cost. The Milwaukee 5625 router is a dream to use with the top.
The information on patwarners websight on building a router table is the best I have seen online in years of researching the subject. The fence design is a work of art and blows away any commercial fence. It took me considerable time to build but if you are a true craftsman you will enjoy the project and have a killer tool when you are finished.
I build them and use the savings elsewhere. If the money's burning a hole in your pocket, you can always buy the fence.
Well I sell router table tops, and I've checked out a lot of competetors tops and I ended up making my own. I ended up laminating two layers of the dense heavy in weight 3/4" MDF laminated with formica. Sealed it with shellac before putting on the formica and added a tortion box suspension under neath. Also sealed the Dado for the miter track. The top is 3' X 4', Made the fence reversable so it acts as a regular router table from the front side and an offset table when used from the rear. The extra size is really nice when raising long or wide panels. Not saying that manufactured tops arn't OK but I know mine is made to my fussy specs. No .015" sags in my table it's dead flat and the router has hung in there all the time for five years.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
If you're making money with your woodworking, and have a backlog of jobs, then it makes sense to buy a top.
But it is easy enough to make your own top, but seal it up as others have suggested, and it will stay flat.
For myself, I made my own top, but bought a fence (JoinTech).
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I bought the rockler top and build my own cabinet for it.
Hi Bob
I would build my own. What has not been suggested so far is the advantage in building a router table into the extension of a tablesaw. The ability to clamp the router fence to the tablesaw fence is a cheap way of adding precision and easy adjustability.
Build the extension out of 2 x 3/4" MDF and contact glue Formica on both sides. Use 3M spray contact glue for strength and even spread. I used the Rousseau insert.
There has been no evidence of sag over the past 5 years since I built mine.
I built a fence out of 2" x 4" aluminium box section for the main housing and adjustable MDF faces. This is quickly added or removed with bolts to the main fence.
Here is my basic set up:
View Image
And here is a breakdown of the fence:
View Image
Regards from Perth
Derek
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