Replies

1. 
   Routerman | Dec 14, 2005 04:34pm | #1

   Walk before run & build before buying. Build a simple one; discover for yourself what is important. Some general tips at the Router Table link.

2. 
   Wannabee | Dec 14, 2005 05:23pm | #2

   My first project was building the router table in "Cutting Edge Router Tips & Tricks". It was pretty simple although the plans have some shortcomings (inaccurate dimensions in cut lists, assume that you know a few things that I did not). It includes a built in router lift made of MDF. It was pretty inexpensive also. A sheet of MDF, some plywood some threaded rod, nuts and washers, a few drawer knobs and the electrical. Probably about $60 total.

3. 
   DougF | Dec 14, 2005 06:03pm | #3

   How much room do you have?  Before I had a dedicated shop I had my router installed in my table saw extension and it served me well for 18 years.  You can use the same TS fence for the router and extend your portable or fixed out table to handle long stock.  W

   If you want the dedicated router table then by all means, go for it.  It is a great building project to practice case joinery, dovetailed drawers, veneered door panels and drawer fronts or just go simple.  One of the most popular designs is Norm's router table.  I built mine from plans in a router book published by Taunton.  I can't remember the name but if your interested let me know.  The great thing about the book was the general information, router jigs and the router cabinet plan plan.  There is also no reason why you can't design your own.  The only advise I would give is to make sure that the top is dead flat and supported in such a way that that it will not sag under the weight of the lift and router.   

4. 
   Dave | Dec 15, 2005 07:19am | #4

   IMHO, there aren't any good off-the-shelf tables available.  I've looked at lots of them, made a mistake and bought one of them, then resorted to tearing it apart to use parts for a shop-built table.  It wound up the only thing I salvaged was the switch.....LOL....never again.

   I agree with a lot of the folks here, build your own.  Start simple so you can learn what does, and doesn't work for you.  I built my own lift and highly recommend one for table work.

5. 
   forestgirl | Dec 16, 2005 04:51am | #5

   I fretted over building a router table for a long time, and then a pre-owned Veritas steel router table top came into view, right here at Knots.  I bought it and have been very, very happy with it!  You can build whatever type of support you want for the top -- from a simple 4-sided box to a full-fledged cabinet with drawers.  Or both, one for outside during the summer, and the big cab for inside.

   As to your list of "wants":  The top is thin enough that it's pretty easy to change bits from above.  As far as above-the-table adjustment goes, depends on the router.  For example, you'd have to simply drill a hole to get one of the new Porter Cable's to work in it.  You can get their fence (split) and 90* sled too.  Hold-downs are based on the design used with shapers, and DC accessories are available.

   What pleases me about this table is the fact that it's dead flat and will stay that way, it has a universal router mounting system so you never have to make new plates or whatever, and I can attach magnetic gizmos to it because it is steel.  The accessories are reasonably priced and well made.

   Just recently took out the PC 690 that was mounted in it, and put in a Freud 3+HP plunge router.  That puppy rocks, and I really wish I'd gone to the bigger HP much sooner.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

6. 
   kesac | Dec 19, 2005 04:44am | #6

   Look at the Router Lady.Com  She has a router table that she makes that does 3/4 of everything you will ever want.

   One of the most important things, that no one seems to want to talk about is that a small router table, placed on your bench, put st the router bit at chest height.  You will find that the optimum height for most routing.  It saves you back, and gives you better control of your stock, and a better view of what you are doing.

   You are going to want more than one router table.  Get that cheap one first, and then add to your collection, as you decide just what capabilities you want next

   You will always seem to use that simplest set up the most.

7. 
   muleboy | Dec 19, 2005 05:08am | #7

   Morty,

   I'm not sure if space is an issue.   If it is replacing and extending the wings on a table saw can be a great way to make a router table.   I started with a PC 690 and a simple phenolic insert plate.   Later on I purchased a lift (PRL from woodpecker)  after receiving a PC 7518 for Christmas from my then girlfriend (now fiance').   The PRL was worth every penny.   It works like a dream.  Since I am not using above the table collection I need to clean dust from the lift off form time to time.

   I created a "downdraft cabinet" from a Rubbermaid garbage can and a 4" plumbers drain fixture.    The rubber garbage can has enough room to allow the lift to move it's full travel.   Even with only a 650 CFM collector I catch about 95% when using a fence,  about 85% without the fence.   Since there is no "door" on my "cabinet" I do have the pull up the lift to change router speeds.   I am planning on cutting in a door, someday.

   The massive wing is made from two layers of heavy 3/4" MDF and the wooden legs that support it also provide convenient places to hang tools for the lift.

   I recently cut my own baseboard and casement for my basement using this router table set-up.   I got great results.   Ripple free, burn free, and the speed was set at 10,000 rpm.

   Hope this helps in some way.

   Muleboy.

    

1. 
   kesac | Dec 24, 2005 06:58pm | #9

   I once put a router in a table that I put one the end of my table saw.  Since I made a couple of tables to set on top of a work bench, and noticed how much easier router tables are to work with at chest height, I don't believe I have ever used the table built into my table saw again.  It is hard on your back for one thing.

   Also, when the router is at chest height, the original adjustments come so close to hand that all of those router lifts become superfulous.

   http://www.woodpeck.com , does have some wonderful stuff.  I especially like their phenolic faced plywood for making gadgetry.

8. 
   RickL | Dec 19, 2005 04:10pm | #8

   American Wood Worker-March 2004 has an excellent article on a "homemade" router lift/ router table. I would put this unit right up with the commercial lifts costing hundreds of dollars and it can be made with stuff from your hardware store. If you can't make this project you should consider taking up another hobby.

1. 
   ohcomeon | Dec 31, 2005 06:43am | #11

   Rick, et al, does anyone have a copy of or link to that American Wood Worker-March 2004 issue?  I've been trying to come up w/ a homemade lift that isn't a Rube Goldberg candidate.  I'd love to see a picture or get a general idea of how it is put together.

1. 
   forestgirl | Dec 31, 2005 08:03am | #12

   I have the issue here.  Email me your snail mail addy and I can send it.  Or if you have broadband, I could scan and send.  It's a big article.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Budman | Jan 01, 2006 11:19pm | #13

   Hi Forestgirl:  Just read your comments ref the American Woodworker router table and lift.  If you have a copy of it in electrons I sure would appreciate one.  thanks for your efforts.

   Budman

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 02, 2006 08:26pm | #14

   Email me -- click on my name and you'll get the option.  That way we can correspond directly.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

9. 
   CamM | Dec 24, 2005 07:35pm | #10

   I've always enjoyed routing but dreaded the dust.  I purchased a router table with the dust collection cabinet from Woodpeckers together with the Incra Wonder Fence, LS positioning system, and I am using a Jessem router lift with a Porter Cable 7518 router.  It's on the pricey side, but an absolute joy to use. 

   The router is now the cleanest tool in my shop.  No dust, beautiful cuts, reproducible adjustments, and an absolute joy to use.  It has become one of my favorite tools.

    

   Cam

    

10. 
    ram | Jan 04, 2006 01:15am | #15

    I have the Bench Dog top  and fence on a shopmade cabinet I based very loosely on Norm's table and some ideas from a FW article.  Although I now favor routerman's design, and although my table was my first more or less serious attempt to make something more complex than a toybox, I'm very happy with it.  As others have said it's a pricey way to go but I have high confidence in its accuracy and likely longevity.

    EDIT: forgot to mention, I use the Bench Dog Pro lift with a PC 7518 router.

    -robert

    
    

    ---

    Edited 1/3/2006 5:16 pm by ram

11. 
    donnybongo | Jan 22, 2006 02:16am | #16

    It is fairly simple to make a router table, as you can see by the attched pics.  I just mounted a router to simple cheap workmate.  All together (excluding the router) it cost about 25 bucks. And it works perfectly.  By the way the fence is off an old table top router table that I had previously.

    
1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 23, 2006 01:02am | #17

   Curious:  what type of plastic did you use for the insert?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   donnybongo | Jan 24, 2006 08:29pm | #18

   Just regular 3/16 plexiglass a friend of mine had left over from a job he was doing.