Which is better for the deck of a router table, plywood or MDF???
I am building a router table this weekend and would like to know what the best option for the deck would be. Any info on the matter would be helpful.
Second question… How thick should the deck be 1″, more, less ???
Thanks for the help,
Matt-
Replies
I like melamine it is slippery less drag on the wood when you are pushing bigger pieces through or plastic laminate on top of good cabinet plywood or mdf. would be another choice.
How much moisture is there where your shop is, basement, garage will make a difference
How thick depend one how big your table top is, how much the router weighs, how big is the base plate is, if you have a frame under the table top how far is from the hole. 1" won’t hurt 1 1/2" is better If you are going to put in a miter slot thicker 2 1/4
MP
I use MDF. 1 1/2" covered all sides by formica or whatever they call it now. Ha.. Good luck..
sarge..jt
They're both probably fine. I've typically made tops for the ones I've built out of 2 sheets of 3/4 ply, BC 7 ply. I like to think this gives stability. But MDF is flat and no voids, which is probably moot since you're going to laminate it anyway. The biggest advantage I can conjure regarding ply is when you cut the recess for the baseplate into the deck, you're not supporting things in the softer center of an MDF sheet.
I have made several router tops out of a sandwiched 5/8" MDF (middle), 1/2" plywood (bottom), and smooth laminate (top). This compromise provides the stability of MDF, strength of plywood (I use the Woodhaven router plate suspension system), and the smoothness/protection of laminate. You could increase the thickness by using 3/4" MDF and Ply but I found that the 1+" thickness was plenty to support my 3.25 HP router.
Paul
MP, I made my top out of 34" melamine MDF. I'ts plenty strong providing you have a way to add stiffining strips near the edges of the insert cut-out, and you are not planning to cut a miter slot, which is useless anyway.
Matt
I agree with Z on re-inforcing the MDF and the mitre slot. In the picture you notive I do have one. It is strickly for the home-made spring-board and feathers. There's a sliding track in the slot that has 1/4" threaded holes for screwing in T handles with threaded studs. Slotted feathers, jigs, etc. can be positioned and locked soen quickly that way.
I re-inforced the under-side of table with 3/8" angle iron around the cut-out for the insert. I also added a few across the table in various places as I made a cabinet to mount the table too. Probaly over-kill, but I'm into over-kill. Grin<>
Sarge,
I am planning on reenforcing the router opening and deck. Will some pieces of a good hardwood work or do I need to use the angle iron? I can do either.
Matt-
Matt
The way I approach it is the cut the rabbeted ledge in one piece of MDF before you mate the two pieces. If you mess up, you don't have to start from ground zero. Then cut the bottom piece hole. BTW, pay attention to how big the hole needs to be in relation to your router fitting through. If you plan on up-grading to a larger router (foot-print), keep that consideration in mind also.
I glue the two pieces together. Shoot some sheet-metal screws in from the bottom side. (counter-sink and be sure to drill pilots one bit size smaller than the screws as MDF will split if you don't). Add laminate both sides. Optional on sides. I sealed the sides with 2 coats of poly and added hard-wood banding with 3 coats of enamel so I could round over edges. Also seal all exposed areas in the cut-out for insert at least two coats of poly or something. I seal the pores of anything exposed.
To answer your question (hard-wood or metal), I have seen Doug Fir in beams that hasn't warped in 100 years. But, wood moves in general. If I used wood, I would seal also. Metal isn't affected by moisture (excetion rust, shoot with enamel 12oz spray to seal) so you can answer your own question. How much humidity in your area and shop, etc. What have you got on hand and how much can you afford. Like I said, I'm into over-kill. Ha... I try to make sure something will remain the same as when I complete it. Both are sufficient, most likely. If you live in the rainy NW USA, I would probaly go with metal.
I suppose if I weren't doing all the extra stuff, I could be watching some silly Rambo movie on TV. Then again, 40 years from now as my son is showing his flat router table to his freinds and telling them his dad built it a long time ago, the over-kill panned out. I think I'll skip the Rambo movie, he can do things much better than I could when I was in the military. Grin<> ha..ha.. Good luck, whatever you do I'm sure you'll do it well!!
sarge..jt
Hi Sarge -
Since I usually go mouse hunting with a 12ga shotgun myself (the overkill thing) I agree with using metal reinforcement where possible - anywhere but near a high speed cutting tool. But I generally got with aluminum. Easier to cut with a carbide tipped blade (wearing appropriate eye protection to be sure. Easier to drill and countersink, stock angles and shapes available at most home DIY places, blah-blah-blah.
For my next act I'm gonna get a bottle of argon and a spool of al. wire for the wire feed welder and try my hand at welding aluminum.
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Dennis
Let me know how you come out with the aluminum welding. Not an easy task. Ha.. I use a lot for edging and various things around the shop.
sarge..jt
Aluminum welding - it won't happen any time too quick, Sarge. I'm currently "between projects". Which is the polite way of saying I'm self unemployed. I gotta watch the pennies until the next job breaks.
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Dennis
Got that. Hope that changes soon.
sarge..jt
I got away with 3/4" particle board for a few years before it warped.
I've replaced it with a torsion box design using 3/4" birch plywood and laminating both sides. I made a mistake with the cutout for the router lift and ended up with two layers of birch ply on each side. It is very stiff. The webbing is also birch ply.
Corian is the way to go. Go to your local big box (HD or Lowe's) and ask one of the kitchen designers to see if they can get you a "drop" from a kitchen counter top. A drop is the cut out from the sink template. a lot of times the kitchen counter top crafters throw these away.
Dave in Pa.
Dave,
That sounds like a good idea I will check it out.
Matt-
Might I suggest that you check out a few other plans before you decide? I really hate to mention a competing magazine on the FWW forum, but such is the nature of forums.
For myself, I have decided to build the router table from Woodsmith #131, though I have not yet started construction. It has some unique features that bear consideration. At least go to the website and read the description. The back issue, assuming you don't already have it, is only $4.95 and can be ordered at the website. (http://www.BackIssueStore.com/backissuesstore/wsback131.html),
The tabletop in this project is 3/4" hardwood ply, sandwiched between two 1/4" hardboard layers, edged with 3/4"x1-1/4" hardwood, then again sandwiched between two layers of plastic laminate (your choice of color/pattern). This gives a 1-3/8 or so thick table virtually guaranteed to remain flat, and the plywood is nicely edged with the hardwood. The issue also includes plans for an excellent fence for the table.
It's important to laminate both sides to ensure that moisture absorption is the same. Laminating just one side leaves the other side open to moisture gain and warping is inevitable. My old table was built of 1-1/4 sub-flooring plywood, but I laminated only the top side. I thought that, being so thick, it shouldn't have a problem. But over the years it has warped, only slightly, but it's enough to cause problems and even a steel angle iron couldn't draw it back to flat.
Best of luck with whichever table you decide to build.
--
Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon
On the Redwood Highway
Edited 10/31/2002 4:23:12 AM ET by Lee
This warping or cupping discussion makes me nervous. On my desktop project (discussed in a number of threads), I have a 3' x 5' top made of 1/4" mahog/mdf ply and two bottom layers of mdf (1/2" and 3/4") for a total of 1-1/2 ". There is no corresponding ply on the bottom. It will be attached with metal fasteners and screws to the pedestals. There will also be 3/4" tongue/groove solid mahog edging on all sides. Would the little bit of mahog ply on top warp the entire surface? Todd
Todd, it's not a matter of the thickness of the ply on the top layer, but the fact that the top surface of the core is sealed against moisture changes, while the bottom surface is not. Differential moisture absorbtion is the cause of the cupping.
The MDF that you used for your core will be less suseptible to warping by nature of the fact that it has no grain structure as solid wood does, however it can still cup (in all directions) as the bottom absorbs moisture and swells, while the top remains the same size.
The amount will likely not be great and may not be noticed on a desk, especially if the top is securely fastened to desk framework, but on a router table where the table surface is used to reference the work being routed, a small cup or warp can make for major problems.
If you can remove your desktop and add a 1/4" ply layer to the bottom without causing serious difficulties in reassembling and finishing, it might be an option for you. It's pretty much a judgement call.
--
Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon
On the Redwood Highway
Sink cutouts make a great router table top, if cut out after the formica has been applied. I used to have one with the glossy (slick) formica. Lumber yard up in Tulsa (M&M Lumber) used to sell them for $1 many years ago. Now I just use my workbench top which is mdf. I cut out a 9" diameter hole, routed a 1/2" lip, and dropped in a 10" diameter x 1/4" thick aluminum plate which acts as the base plate for the router.
Any Okies know if M&M is still around there in tulsa? Was family owned and they were a great bunch of people!
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
PlaneWood
Mike
Very clever idea. Killed two birds with one stone and don't have a problem with extentions on the router table if you run any long stock through.
The idea for MDF on the work-bench is clever, also. Lee mentioned in a thread a while back. Flat and really no warpage if applied correctly. If it gets fouled up, cheap enough to just replace. I built my assembly table that way with a sheet of birch ply on top. Thinking about covering the maple top on the work-bench with it. Seems a shame to cover the maple, but it makes sense.
sarge..jt
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