I’m building my first router table, and after looking over some plans as well as commercial sizes used for the tops, I notice they range from about 28″ to 32″. I think I saw one at 36″. While space in the shop is not much of an issue, I don’t want it taking up any more room than necessary either. It will be used for general use; no intention of doing oversized work.
So the question: is there any advantage/disadvantage to going bigger or smaller as far as the table top size is concerned? I am making the top from 2 sandwiched peices of 3/4″ MDF. Also what about depth? I won’t have an Incra fence (which needs 32″ I think).
A secondary question is regarding the fence; thoughts on wether to make the opening for the bit adjustable. I’ve seen both.
Replies
I would try it out on the smallest size you think you need. (Makeshift type). Or do you have an outfeed table on you table saw? For space saving you may try that. I Have a router table I built. it holds two routers. Interested in it ?
-LMC
The wider the table the more support your material has going through. More accuracy.
BUT, if you buy a commerical (already made) fence, that will determine the width of the table. If you make your own fence (ala Norms table) you can make it any size you want.
Adjusting the fence to the opening needed for the blade improves your dust collection primarily.
Alan - planesaw
Thanks for the input. I've almost finished the base so will need to decide soon. I'll see what it looks like with the 32" and then decide to leave it or cut it down. Making my own fence.
Decisions, decisions....
I have mine as the extension to my table saw, so that makes it 20" wide x 27" deep. That is big enough, especially w/ the saw table as extra space. The one mistake I made was putting the insert plate too close to the edge. The center of the bit is a little over 7" from the edge. I'm going to flip the table around so it is closer to the saw table. The reason is support for large panels or sleds that hold the workpiece. I would make it so you have a good 10" or more from the edge to the bit.
As for fences, make or buy one w/ adjustable faces. I use everything from panel-raising 3"+ bits to 5mm bits, so having the ability to adjust the support from the fence it good. Plus, it helps w/ dust collection I think.
Back to sleds; look at some of the sleds that Pat Warner uses. I just made one for cutting tennons and it makes all the difference in the world in quality of the cut. And it is much safer too. Scraps and a couple toggle clamps is all you need.
Jake
I have the base almost finished and put the 32 X 32 top on tonite. It looks a bit large. I'm thinking I may cut it down a bit.
The sled is a good idea and bought some h/w to make all that plus a fence. I have a 4" dust collection port on the side of the base and will also add one to the fence behind the bit area.
It's taking longer than I thought. Maybe it's the day job...
If precision and accuracy are important, then, x default, so is flatness. The bigger the table top the more difficult it is to make it & keep it flat. What is a good mimimum surface l&w? As small as practical. See the Router Table link for some general information.
If the work is always big and precision is not an issue, then size does not matter much. Unsupported top (overhang) will cup up, so minimize that no matter what the table application. Flat work that rises and falls as it passes the cutter (due a twisted, cupped or bowed top) will have a cut that varies down its length. There is some risk here too, if the cutter is stuck in the work, like a slotter is e.g. It (the work) might kick back or tear itself a new and wider pathway!
Routerman brings up a good point. I made something of a torsion box design w/ plywood on edge underneath to give it stability. I plan to modify it slightly to continue to stiffen it up and keep it level with the iron wings of the table saw.
I made a very cheap but functional fence that I attach to my AccuFence on the table saw. It is 3/4" plywood w/ hardwood faces that are adjustable w/ knobs. I included a 3" dust port for my shop vac that sucks up almost all of the dust. The only time it doesn't do well is if the bit is trapped in the stock (dados, etc) where the only egress for the dust is downward through the table.
I'm glad I posted this question; Routerman does make a good point and when put that way, is now logical to me. The original drawing plan was 28 X28" but the one on the link was 24X24. I'll put a scrap peice of ply of each size to better visualize what it will look like, and take it from there - decide on one or the other.
Thanks for the input !
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