Used my router table for the first time recently, making some simple cove molding. It seems the table is set up to feed right to left (that’s the direction the feather-boards go). This feeds the wood into the bit in the direction of rotation, which is opposite the direction I usually move the router free-hand. After shooting a few pieces of wood across the shop, I was able to control it by getting the feather boards tight and taking very shallow passes. I still had to hold on tight to the stock while feeding it thru, and it didn’t feel well controlled.
Am I missing something? Suggestions?
Thanks.
Paul
Replies
Paul,
Can you not move the featherboards to the opposite side? Or just remove them?
Regards,
Ray
Right to left alright, unless the work is trapped between the cutter and the fence.
In that event, feed is left to right, notwithstanding, at great risk. Are you sizing the work as you profile?
Routers
PBurgett,
Typical router-table feeding is RIGHT to LEFT.
In a router table, the wood can shoot out of your hands in three main circumstances:
==> You trap a narrow piece of wood between the blade and the fence
==> You cut a dado or a groove of some kind and then you widen it so that the stock you are removing is hitting the REAR of the blade, not the FRONT of the blade. The stock you are removing should generally always be hitting the FRONT of the blade. Essentially, this is a variation on the first rule.
==> If you are free-hand routing and you don't have a firm grip, and the stock hits the sides of the blade. The wood doesn't really "fly" out of your hands all the time in this case, but it can jump.
Remember this: If the wood flies out of your hands, let it go! Don't try to "save" it. When I was first getting used to the router table, I had a few pieces fly and smash into walls. The only positive thing about this is it throws it away from you, not at you!
Now, on the question of hand-held and table operations moving in the opposite direction, you have to use your spatial-relations skills here. Remember, in a router table the router is upside down, so the absolute direction is opposite what it would be in the hand-held position. But the important point is, you are still attacking the stock from the same direction in terms of blade rotation. Once you take a moment to consider this, it will become obvious.
In my shop, the use of table-mounted and the hand-held routers is essential. When I was first learning (of course, I'm still learning a lot) there were a couple of books that really helped me. I'd suggest you check them out as they will answer the questions you asked here as well as many others that are bound to come up:
Here are the titles:
The Router Book, By Pat Warner
Router Magic, By Bill Hylton
I'm sure people will add to the list, but these were the ones that really helped me.
Edited 6/28/2005 9:03 am ET by Matthew Schenker
Climb cutting is incredibly dangerous on a router table. Don't do it!
Dull bits are another danger when using a router table, especially if you think you can sneak in a little climb cut. And, if you think you can "let go" when the router shoots your work at high velocity across the shop, think again. I've got the scars to prove that while routers can operate at a few hundred mph, our hands do not.
I now tend to mark on the table and the jigs I use which direction to cut. An arrow is a nice reminder. Also, remember when dadoing that the back side of the dado is being cut in the opposite direction, if you are taking a second pass on a dado.
I avoid cutting a piece where the work is between the bit and the fence, if the piece is small.
I never stand at the "side" of the table, where a suddenly propelled piece of work could spear me.
It's the nature of the game that accidents can happen, accidents do happen, and that when you least expect it, they will happen. Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
Paul,
The one time I had the stock fly on the router table I was cutting groves down the middle of a board about 6" wide or so. I was widening one of the grooves in such a way that the back of the bit hit the wood. Hey, I was relatively new at woodworking. The bit was totally enclosed in the wood. Also, I was routing a piece that was about 72" long. But the router grabbed the stock right out of my hands, ran it all the way through and flung it against the wall of my shop.The interesting thing is, the groove was not damaged, as the router ran the stock nice and straight the whole length. But the end was not good, having smashed into a stone wall.
Edited 7/1/2005 10:26 am ET by Matthew Schenker
That's one for the books--a self auto feeding router!
My worst accident came when I was use a 3/4" stright bit to round out the underside of what would become my bench feet. I think I had a bit of a dull blade, and ended up inadvertantly climb cutting the piece when the blade grabbed the wood and shot it out to the right. Unfortunately, it took my left hand (still on the wood) with it and through the blade. My ring finger was munched badly, the little finger had a broken bone, and the middle finger also sliced up. Fortunately it looked a lot worse than it really was, and healed OK. But my ring finger still has a series of scars about 1/4" apart, where you can see each rotation of the bit as it went across my finger.
This all happened in lesss than 0.1sec. That is much faster than human reflexes, which is what spurred my original post--don't rely on thinking you will have the time to react and "let go" of a piece.
The accident was also a very good reminder not to wear rings or watches while in the shop (I wasn't).Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
Paul,
If I even suspect that there may be danger, especially when I am running narrow pieces, I use a guide to keep my hands far from the bit. And if I am making moldings or decorative edges, whenever possible I rout a wider board then cut off the routed section on the bandsaw. When the board is nice and wide, you're safer from getting your hands in the blade. But for those narrow pieces, watch out. The wider the board, the further your hands are from the spinning bit.It's not fun having a piece of wood fly on any machine. But at least on the router table it flies to your side and not straight back at you like on a table saw!
A wife once gave me a leather apron that she got from the Brookstone Catalog. The hide is suede on both sides, quite thick but still flexible.
I have had the same experiences that you all have had and have received some fairly good hits but never a penetration.
"never a penetration."
Good for you, just stay away from California.....
Have a digicam? A photo of your setup would help in figuring out why its grabbing the work.
Others are right, a router in a table normally feeds right to left. Only thing I can think of is somehow your cutter is grabbing on the backside to pull it.
Also, depending on the size of your cove, it may take several passes. Probably should take more than a 1/16" at a time depending on wood species.
Take the feather boards off and turn them over to reverse the direction.
Alway feed in a manner that if the work dissapears, your feeding force would not put your hands into the cutter.
Edited 6/28/2005 10:47 am ET by rootburl
I agree we need pictures if your set-up, stock in place. Right-to-left is the normal feeding direction for edge-routing at a table, and the stock should be moving against the rotation of the bit.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Paul,
Are you running the stock so that it is between the cutter and the fence, as though you were ripping something on a table saw? This set up is almost never used on a router table because it is dangerous and it is very difficult to get a good cut.
The bit should be half buried in the fence and the stock passed from right to left which would then be against the rotation of the cutter. Also the stock should be wide to make it easy to handle. If you need a small molding, use a table saw to slice it off the edge of the wide board after the molding is cut.
Since you have little experience with a router table, I'd suggest reading,a book or two about how to use one. I've seen a couple of bloody but not horrendous, injuries inflicted by router tables, reading about how to set up a table would be good insurance.
John W.
As stated in the other posts... If we had a Picture or more Info on what and how you are doing it would help ALOT!
I use router tables all the time.. I still get in trouble sometimes.. (not thinking or the wood)..
Whatever you do... DO NOT FIGHT THE WOOD! If it 'HAS' to go someplace.. LET IT GO!
Fingers are hard to replace.. Wood is easy to replace... No matter how expensive it was.. ER room MORE expensive by a long shot!
By the way.. I still have all my fingers.. BUT I keep them away from that BIT!
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