Hi,
I’m a newbie, so forgive me if I’ve posted in the wrong area, or duplicated an oft-asked question.
I received a router for my anniversary – I have a lovely husband! – and my first project is to build a router table.
I’m all set to go on this – I have the materials and the plans – but there is one small problem I can’t seem to find an answer to:
The router has a trigger switch, with a safety button – i.e. press in the button, hold down the trigger, and off you go. However, this also means that when you release the trigger, the router stops.
As I plan to use a no-volt safety switch, and the router will be mounted upside down under the table, how on earth do I do this?
Bending to press the trigger will be dangerous, inconvenient, and down-right undignified.
Should I duct tape the trigger and button into position? Or is there something incredibly simple I am overlooking?
Many, many thanks in advance!
Replies
Bonus,
I used duct tape. All was well until several months later I decided to use My DeWalt 621 in the hand held position and removed the duct tape...it would not turn off. I'll probably need to replace the switch if I want to use it by hand.
What kind of router is it exactly? I don't mean to sound rude or anything, but that router may not be well-suited to use in a table. If it doesn't hurt your husband's feelings, you might want to return it and get a different model; I like my Porter-Cable 894 for both handheld and table use and many others will recommend Hitachi's M12V or Freud's larger model for dedicated use in a table. Yours sounds like it was only meant for handheld use.
It's a Black and Decker KW850E, which I have seen mounted in a table.I'm pretty keen to at least try to get this into a table, as it's quite lovely to use.I have been looking at ebay, though, for a more complete solution, and may end up buying a dedicated router/table, and keeping the B&D for hand use.
You're in the UK probably, judging by the model number.
B&D tools are typically lightweight and made for only occasionally use. B&D would probably rather that you didn't use that model in a table with the trigger locked on, hence no trigger lock. It will wear it out quicker than you would like if pushed hard or run continuously for long periods, but it doesn't mean that you can't try.
John W.
B,
In the UK Black & Decker sell their router with a special plastic clip to hold the switch down in a situation such as yours.
The clip is a circle with with a section of the circumference cut out, attached on an arm. It pushes onto the switch assembly like a circlip and is configured to press the switch down when in place. The clip/arm has also has a string attached to the arm end, which allows you to quickly pull the thing off the switch in an emergency.
You might be able to make such a thing yourself; or perhaps B&D sell one as an accessory?
Lataxe
I remember years ago, I found plans for building a router table also. After a lot of hard work and effort I discovered that the top of my table(My plan called for laminated plastic top surface on MDF)had warped from the weight of mt router. I would encourage you to at least purchase the top and buy one guaranteed not to warp.
Maybe I'm missing something, but what is wrong with bypassing the router switch all together and use the switch you plan to use? My Bosch needed a new cord and I replaced that without too much trouble. Just remove the stock switch and wire directly to the power circuit. Did I just say something stupid?
You mentioned having to unsafely bend down to activate the router. That's an issue aside from keeping the router running, let me address that.
I have a PC router with both a handle lockable switch and a top mounted switch. I plug my router into a table mounted recepticle with a HD light switch on the front of the table in a safe and convenient location. The receptacle has a medium lenght cord that plugs into the power source receptacle. Router is turned on/off at the light switch.
Works great for me. Consult an electrician on how to do the wiring for the switch.
Coonsy's statement regarding direct wiring is valid as long as you never intend to hand hold the router.
Good luck.
I received a router for my anniversary - I have a lovely husband! -
Dang get HIM some safty glasses and bite his ear and tell him to
Route me if ys have a flat table!
Should I duct tape the trigger and button into position? Or is there something incredibly simple I am overlooking?
is there something incredibly simple I am overlooking? YEP.. Fried chicken and some good WineQ!
Edited 6/22/2006 5:05 pm by WillGeorge
There is no single answer to your question, but I too did not like the prospect of reaching up under the top to turn the router on ... fingers too far from sight and too close to spinning cutters. So I cut the chord about 12 inches from the router, and installed a plug end. Then I put a receptable in the back of the table housing, so when that the router plugs into that with the short chord. I put a house type switch in-line in the chord. So, when the machine is not in use, I turn off the main switch, and also the switch on the router, and to operate I revers that. With two switches I am less likley to turn it on by accident (or for my 6 year old to do that).
Now - the issue of the spring-loaded switch is interesting. I would avoid duct tape just because of the sticky mess. What about a short piece of bailing wire that is sized to slide over the switch, but can also be slid off? If you know that the machine will be dedicated to the table you could disable it altogether or replace it with a toggle.
Just some thoughts -
Skip the duct tape. Use a zip tie. It'll stay put when you need it and come off cleanly when you don't.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
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