Often seen recommendation to use starter pin when pattern routing on a router table, but never any instructions on how to use. Does it matter orientation of pin, router center, and contact point of work with bit? Should work be pressed laterally firmly against the starter pin before engaging bit? … Thanks. Don
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The starter pin is a must for freehand or pattern shaping-especially if you are cutting a large profile......Use athe starter pin as a fulcrum or pivot point. With your work firmly against pin, slowly pivot your work into contact with cutter. Once the cutter is in contact and the bearing or guide bushing is guiding the work, you can rout or cut away with out regards to the starter pin---it's just the only safe way to start a cut that is not limited by a fence or other guard. Any questions please feel free to e-mail me... George M
I think I understand the principle, let me try to state another way. When work is introduced to the router bit, the rotating cutting edge applies horizontal forces on the work. If the work is unrestrained, these forces will move the wood tangential to the cutting edge's circle of travel (essentially will move the wood back to the right) and also in the direction of the cutting edge (which pulls the work into the bit, creating the infamous dig or gouge). The purpose of the starting pin is to be an immovable object against which the work can be pushed, essentially wedging the work between your hands and the pin. This wedging creates enough resistance to horizontal motion so that when the work is then slowly pivoted into the router bit the horizontal forces exerted by the bit on the work are not enough to move the work. And once the bit's bearing is against the template the work can be slowly rotated off the starting pin and moved past the bit. Correct? This makes sense now, and explains why sometimes I was getting the router bit to bite into the work even with the starting pin - was not pushing hard enough against the starting pin. Also explains why, if the template and pattern are heavy enough, a starting pin is not needed - there is sufficient friction of the work with the table top to resist the horizontal forces exerted by the bit on the work. This is great. Thanks George.
Oh, fudge! Still suffered some catching and gouging this afternoon. Problem spot was the end of a Shaker style "Snake Foot" round table tripod leg. Because of curvature, the end of the leg forms an angle of about 60 degrees to the line between the router bit and the starter pin. Perhaps I should try climb cutting off the starter pin on this? Don
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