Hi, brand new member. Didn’t see this specific discussion in my searches
I am considering a routing table setup. I need everything since my current router doesn’t work in a lift with an odd power connection.
I have found three options and looking at full table setup for comparison although I may opt for a custom stand to suit my needs better and delete table from order.
MLCS ultimate U-turn table system which comes complete with a 3-1/4 hp motor which is overkill for my needs at $1050
Rockler phenolic with FX lift plus a a Bosch 1617 router for about $870
Kreg table with precision lift and Bosch 1617 router for around $1020
The Kreg seems over priced for what you get. One guy I know said Rockler was living off it’s reputation selling crap overpriced (I don’t have much experience with them). The MLCS as I said seems to be overkill and probably heaviest.
Thoughts and suggestions welcomed and I thank you in advance
Replies
Is this setup going to be your first router table? If so, I'd think about forgoing the lift. I've never had one in my personal shops. Just a Dewalt fixed base screwed to a piece of MDF. In the old FWW shop, we had lift, and while it was an amazing convince, I don't think I could ever bring myself to shell out for a lift.
If you're not certain you're going to use a router table a lot, I think I'd live with a simple setup. If you use it a lot, go hog wild!
Maybe that's a good idea. I figured out a way to attach a doubled up 3/4 plywood panel in my small table saw when table is extended. I can just mount the fixed base to that plywood panel as you suggested
So I went the budget route for now and modified my table saw a little bit. Still have a little touch up to do but came out okay.
My table saw is the previous model Bosch job site saw on a folding cart. Great saw BTW
Glued up two 3/4 crappy plywood panels, made an inside template and used a 1/2 pattern bit. Not a great job but with some chisel and sandpaper got the plate to fit tight and flush.
Router, as you can see from pics has a weird power strip on body of motor and a track in the two bases. Not a great choice for table use but the motor is strong rated over 2hp. So I have to reach under a lot to start and stop motor but this router in there is probably temporary. Likly get a more appropriate router and make table top insert from better material and use a proper template.
I kept the fixture I made to drill holes in wood and saw so I can do it again.
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I've never had room to justify a stand alone router table... Plus, a lot of the time, my workshops have been mobile, on-site, kinda things. So, I had a crappy Ryobi benchtop router table for years (made a lotta money with that piece of you-know-what). When the moisture got too much for the pressboard top, I picked up a Bosch. It's decent with a cast aluminum top and flimsy plastic base pieces. The fence is actually decent.
However, in the last month, I've been setting up my new shop. I have changed the way I work and am almost exclusively in-shop. So, I recently picked up a Shop Fox table saw and lucked out... The Bosch router table top is the exact same size as the space between my fence rails. I really love this solution, as it saves space in my small shop.
Last year, I picked up a Ridgid router to go in said Bosch table. The cool thing is that it can be adjusted from 'below'.. Which is actually above, when mounted in a table. It came with a little plastic tool that slips over a little hex screw. Works like a lift, but maybe a tad less accurate.
So, my suggestion is maybe get a decent table, with a nice insert plate, and find a router that has a similar adjustment.
At the shop I belong to we have a Woodpecker router table - many super fine adjustments - great tool. Expensive - just like all good tools.
I got tired of fighting the springs in my 3hp Porter Cable plunge router (mounted in a cast iron extension tablesaw wing). Fine adjustments were a battle and I started looking at lifts. One of my finds was at MCLS and I called to see if I could get it to fit my 20-year-old wing.
The man talked me OUT of the expensive lift and into a Triton 3HP plunger for $299. The Triton was designed for upside-down use and has a lift with above table adjustment built in. I could not be happier.
Plenty of power and the collet locks above the table for 1 wrench bit changes. I'm a big fan with zero affiliation to mcls or triton.
Like @_MJ_ I have gone for the big Triton option.
If you take the plunge spring out it is a really great tool - micro-adjust is very effective. It can be adjusted from through the table but NOT with the triton router table (go figure) which needs a hole drilling to allow this feature to work. It's so easy to adjust from below though that I never bother.
This machine lives in the table but gets an outing here and there for bigger jobs.
It can be left in the table for bit changes as the collet locks automatically when extended below the level of the base.
For switching, you can leave the router itself switched on and control it from a separate NVR switch.
I would double check your Bosch base. Is there a way to adjust it from the bottom? My PC router with fixed base is made to use a small nut driver for unlocking and adjustment so it can be used inverted on a router table. Can't find anywhere that is in a manual so double check.
This may help you. It gives a list of reviews for various tables.
Good luck in your selection! :)
https://firstwoodworker.com/best-router-table-2016-unbiased-reviews-experts/
FWIY: I am 79 and never had a dedicated router table. Moved into a 3-garage car and made 2 into my shop. I built my router table out of 2x4s with a ¾ BB top with laminate. No big deal but 1. it is tall so I do not have to bend over to work (back issues that come with age) and 2.I did make it mobile for last ge pieces.
I bought the little Bosch router table and the Bosch 1617 to go with it. You can adjust the router from the top of the table but none of it s real precise like a $3-400 lift. I can work with that for the price.
I was able to, later on, mount that little box on the right side of my table saw. :)
right now, and until 12-26 MLCS has a "ready to rout" special. It includes everything but the router for $270.
To the OP, I think you have made a good step toward your goal that will let you learn what you really require out of a router table. Some folks use one very little or do not even have one. I use mine on nearly every project but, like my tablesaw, I use it as a joinery machine as much as for its more common use. If you lean my direction in your journey, you will re-visit your router table format more than once ;-)
I think a router table is one of those shop projects that can really pay off, not only the expense, but that you can size and customize to suit your needs.
I've used a router with built in lifts and had trouble with it. Once I got a lift I have to say nothing can beat a quality lift. This major part of the expense can be offset by building your own table and fence.
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