I have a tablesaw with 50 inche extentions. I have yet to build a talble to fill the extention, if that makes sense to anyone. I hope so.
Now, I have purchased a large router which I intend to primarily mount in a table.
Should I build a router incert into my tablesaw extention? If not, why not.
Secondly, could I or should I use my bismeyer tablesaw as a router fence if I go the tablesaw extention route? I would naturally have to build or add some add on fence device.
Suggestions? Advice? Thoughts?
Replies
I put one in my TS and like it a lot. I seldom use the Biese fence although I originally thought I'd use it exclusively. Here's a pic.
I have a setup like this, with a cabinet mounted underneath the table extension to facilitate with dust collection and provide storage. Think of it like a traditional router table without a top mounted underneath my TS extension.
It works great for me because I have space constraints but there are a couple of downsides:
1) it's a pain to have your fence setup just right and then have to remove it because you need to cut a sheet of plywood and the fence is in the way
2) limited options for mounting a fence because most of the good router table fences clamps around the edges of the table top, something I can't do with my Unisaw table extension. I routed a couple of t-tracks into the table board and that's how I secure my homemade fence.
3) the stock table boards can flex under the weight of a router mounted under it, be sure to add extra support.
If I can find my digital camera I will snap a couple of pictures for you.
I agree with the T tracks. Too bad I didn't put them in when I made my extension table. The area of the table where the router will live does need to be reinforced and the router insert plate needs to be flat when the router is hanging under it. I bought one at the WW show a few years ago and it has too much crown to it, which makes it pretty useless when trying to achieve any kind of accuracy. I asked about it this year and they have since reduced the crown to 5 degrees. Really messed up some of my stiles and rails. Re: the Beismeyer used for the router- you'll want to have an area cut out for clearing the bit when using the fence and this is the perfect oportunity to put a fitting on for dust collection. If you add a box underneath, you can collect the dust when cutting dados and grooves, too.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
DoRight,
I'm in the process of doing just that I have the cabinet installed 27"D x 41"W. All I need now is the lift... I'll post some pictures as soon as it finished.
Thanks everyone.
Keep the thoughts coming.
If you have lots of shop space, build or buy a separate router table, preferably one that also can mount the router horizontal or above the table (very handy for cabinet making).
If shop space is not plentiful, then yes, put the router in the TS extension table. My shop space is tight and this is the setup I use. The obvious (which others pointed out) is that sometimes you have to spend time moving the fence or removing the router in order to cut large sheet goods, or make cross cuts on long pieces. But if you don't have the space, it's the cost of having the router table.
Do this swapping around enough times and you'll wish (1) that you had more shop space, and (2) that you had a separate router table.
"Do this swapping around enough times and you'll wish (1) that you had more shop space"
I think this may be a universal feeling, irrespective of how much shop space you actually have.
You mentioned removing the router on occasion, I have a lift (PRL) and have yet to find the need to actually take it out of the table. What is a hassle is when I have it setup for a job and then have to drop the bit down to cut a sheet of plywoood. Like you said, having enough space I would have a dedicated router (and a shaper as well), but I don't so the TS works out well.
I have also been considering replacing the 52" fence on my Unisaw with the 30" for the reason that I pretty much use my TS for ripping and dado operations, while my SCMS takes the bulk of my cutoff operations and my bandsaw is being used for the rest. I am finding that I just don't need a big tablesaw and if I had shorter fence rails I could then move to a dedicated router table setup and even possibly a shaper.
I end up removing my router to use it freehand, because I've only got one router for now at least.
When I can afford it, I'd like to build a separate router table, into which I'll put a 3 HP on a QuickLift, which I like because dropping the bit below the table takes less than ten seconds.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
I had a separate router table and ended up in a 1 car 'shop' so I mounted two router plates in the top of my 30" TS extension to save on space. I had a Rockler fence orginally so I added another to the system and can run the cope and stick joints on my rails and stiles all day without changing over from one profile to the other. This certainly keeps the projects moving forward and the frustration level to a minimum! As for the location of the routers, I mounted one plate close to the cast iron table so I could use the existing miter slot. This side is also good for raising panels as you have a lot of support around the bit. For the other router, I installed a T-track on the extension.
As noted previously, it can be a pain when you need to cut a wide panel, but I think the benefits out-weigh the 3-min excursion from your project. One good aspect of my set-up is that you can remove the fence and pull the router/plate without changing the elevation of the bit. When you are done, just drop the unit back in and re-set the fence and you are all set to keep going. As for the TS fence, I use it to set my router fences parallel; otherwise it is off the table when routing. Overall, the set-up works out quite well in a 10' X 20' shop!
Cheers,
-AS
I put a router table on the right sice of my tablesaw and I have been happy with it. I can use the table saw fence with the router.
Good luck
Troy
Troy, you say you use the TS fence with your router. Did you build an add on fence so as to be able allow the router chips to clear teh blade etc.?
I have a jet contractors saw and I bolt a auxiliary fence to the rip fence. Don't have a lot of problems with the saw dust just have to vacuum them up a lot. I know that you can set something up to use a shop vac with the fence but I have not been that ambitious.Good luck Troy
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