Hi,
Im fairly new to woodworking and seeing that a good router table (w/o a router) is only slightly less that a decent contractor style table saw, I have decided to build my own. I have looked at some plans and decided that I am not looking to build a large table with a 3 storie cabinet system that can fold down and fit into my pocket. However, my question is about the top. I saw the recent article in WW Journal where the author uses high density birch ply. When purchasing plywood, is high density the standard or would it specifially say. I checked Home Depot (it was the only store open on Sunday) and there birch ply doesnt seem high density and definitely not straight enough for a top. There is a good lumber supply store near by that I would guess has it though. I did end up getting 3/4 and 1/2 MDF which, despite that fact that I haven’t seen any plans using it, it seems that it would make a good top assuming I make a torsion box to prevent sag. If I do go with MDF, is yellow wood glue the best for MDF or there a better adhesive.
Thanks for any input.
Replies
I would guess that "high density birch ply" probably refers to Baltic birch, which has more plies then the usual stuff.
MDF is quite commonly used for router tables (including commercial tables), and that's what I'd use. It's very flat, and smooth enough to use as-is, with maybe a coat of oil-based finish. You don't need a torsion box unless the table is huge. The downside to MDF is the dust - wear a mask and avoid routing it.
Pat Warner has a plan for an MDF-topped table on his site (http://patwarner.com/router_table.html).
I am in th process of building a router table myself. I have watched "The New Yankee workshop" for a number of years and decided to build the one that they have the plan for. I am almost finished with the project and have used the table (without having finished the fence) already. I would suggest that you look int getting the plans for this table, it will give you a very versitile and useable addition to your shop.
You can order it from Rockler or from the New Yankee web site.
this may not be the route you want to go however - - I installed a Bismeyer fence on my Craftsman table saw and built a table top for the right hand side - - in which I inserted my router - - and I can use the new fence along with jigs when routing.
I made a router table that I attached to the right side of my table saw and have been pleased with the way it works I glued two pieces of 3/4 plywood and glued some leftover plastic Formica. I also added two miter tracks in the top. This was done on the cheep. The plywood was scrap along with the Formica. I used a router table insert to mount the router. I think the whole thing cost less than 40 bucks. Good luck.
After looking at all sorts of router tables and plans, I came up with this.
I bought a cast iron extension for my saw that had ####hole for the router, reducer rings and clamps for the router included. It cost less than most router tables, is heavy, stable and extends the width of my saw. I can also use the table saw fence for the router by adding a wooden fence that clamps to the table saw fence. My saw fence is precise and I don't need to keep two fences aligned or serviced. It is permanent, does not wear, will never sag. In my one man shop I can't be using the router and saw at the same time so I don't see a downside. The router can be raised or lowered from above the table (Milwaukee) so it is easy to lower the bit below the table surface when not in use. The weight of the table saw and heavy cast tops dampen vibration. I am really satisfied with it.
Keith
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