Have to groove ¼” the 3”x3’ length of ¾” cherry stiles for a cupboard. Any recommendations for this? Thanks.
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Replies
Either works but the router table ssems to have more blow out so be sure to use a backup board. The router table also has the benefit that if the groove is for plywood you can get undersized bits for a better fit.
I'm piggybacking on IrishBill_NY because I've been wondering whether one is preferable to the other (router vs. table saw). I find the TS easier and I'm more comfortable with it, but if the router in some way produces better results, I'll do it that way.
So a separate but related question (revealing a fraction of my router uncertainties/ignorance) . If you're putting a 3/8 deep groove in 3/4 plywood, how many passes would you make on router? or would you chunk through it all at once?
Depends, how powerful is your router? What type of bit straight flute or spiral upcut?
If I'm using my 3¼hp DeWalt and a spiral upcut I'm probably doing it in a single pass.
It’s a Bosch 2.25 hp. I picked up a whiteside undersized plywood set (3 sizes, 1/2” shank) on sale a couple months ago. I’ve used them once and they work beautifully, but I’m unsure about how much I can bite off in one pass. I think I did it in one pass, because I was/am also concerned that a second pass won’t line up *perfectly* with the first pass and that might throw things off a bit.
If I'm using a fence or a fixed guide, I'll do it in multiple passes. But if I'm moving the router in between passes, I might want to do it in one go, to make sure I don't have an alignment problem.
Often, it's sound and feel that tells me I'm trying to bite off too much at once. And with a router, the dado can get choked with chips, which often tells me I should be taking multiple passes.
Most undersized plywood bits are 2 flute straight bits so I would probably make two passes. Straight flute bits don't clear chips very well and will build up heat faster. I always try to use up spiral bits when I can they clear chips much better.
Ok great, thank you both. Very helpful as always.
Either a router table and slot cutter or table saw and flat top blade.
Once set up, a dado blade on the table saw will be faster. The 1/4" by any depth groove can be cut with one pass about as fast as you can push it through. Especially if you have a lot of pieces to do, this would be the way to go.
I'm partial to my dado.
Most undersized plywood bits are 2 flute straight bits so I would probably make two passes. Straight flute bits don't clear chips very well and will build up heat faster. I always try to use up spiral bits when I can they clear chips much better.
My go-to for grooving multiple 3’ long boards would be the TS with a 1/4” dado blade.
Depends on the number of dadoes, whether they are through or not and whether you have the correct size bit.
I just spent ages calculating offsets and making spacer blocks to use a TS blade to cut a series of dadoes for ply where I just didn't have the right size router bit and the ply was too thin for my dado set.
That having been said, when set up, cutting 26 dadoes took about as long as cutting 2 or 3 with the router.
The Table Saw wins for work speed, but the router can be set up in the time it takes to find a pencil in my shop. With the correct bit, a router is king for small numbers of slots.
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