Just purchased a Bosch 1617EVSPK and was considering router tables. Seems like the Bosch 1100 or 1200 make the most sense because of space. Then I started to consider the use of the extension table on my Powermatic. What are the pros/cons of an extension used as a router table.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
I have a router table mounted to my table saw on the left side of the blade and I like the ability to use my table saw fence on the router table. I think a dedicated router table like the one Norm made on The New Yankee workshop is nice because of the better dust collection but what I have works for me. I think the table saw option is better than a small router table without dust collection and a nice big fence.
Troyy
Do you have enough room in your shop for a tablesaw AND a router table?? Troy gave a good answer, but I will expand on it since I've used both set-ups. . By mounting a router on the extension table of your saw, you have a good fence and 'lots' of table surface to work with, especially if you're doing raised panels for doors. By mounting the router on the saw, you have to break down one set-up to use the 'other' machine' If you do the type of work that calls for you to leave your router set up for several days, then the seperate setup is better.
Just my oppinion.... SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E od NYC)
I wish you would have made this post before buying the router table, those things are expensive for what you get. I just build my own, just a simple little table with a hole in the top and a wood fence. I used a Bosch router table (not sure the model#) and I didn't like it at all. The plastic feather boards were too stiff and hard to get adjusted right and I didn't like all the grooves in the top. The single door was poor access for changing bits. I like having a wood top ( 1.2" mdf with lots of J-wax) to screw my home made feather boards to.
I also made a sliding table for it with a reversible angle gizmo for making dovetails joints.
I have a hole for a router in my extension of the table saw. I never used it. My big wrap around out-feed table would make using it awkward.
Bret
Although making double use of the TS table extension space, and being able to use the TS fence sound like good options, it may or may not work out for you. Just depends on your shop layout and practices, I think. As others have mentioned, there's the setup/teardown issue, which may not be convenient. And, less-than-ideal dust collection. Plus, you'll need one or more auxiliary router fences attached to your TS fence, anyway.Some folks love the Ts extension setup, but for others it just doesn't work out well.
Only you can decide what will work for you.
Hinged table on saw
My first router table set-up was a Veritas steel top hinge-mounted on the left wing of a contractor's saw. It had a couple of advantages: I could drop it down without changing any settings (including the fence), if I needed to use the saw for a largish piece of stock; left up with the fence removed and bit down it provided excellent stock support for the saw.
The main disadvantage was lack of dust collection, but I think if I'd set my mind to it, that could have been provided. If you haven't looked at the Veritas, it's worth a peek: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43053&p=43885
Router table
I have PC mounted under the table on the right side of my saw. It is held in a Rockler lift system. Easy to change bits, lift the plate up, or remove the insert. I made a fence for it with a DC port on the side, and enclosed the motor in a ply box and have a DC port there. Works great. You can still rip and so small cuts with it setup, but if you need a cross cut sled then you have to lower the bit (easy) and remove the fence (easy) as well.
I wanted a larger router table in my shop but didn't have the room. I told my wife that we never use the Living Room, so why don't I just empty that room and turn it into an extention of my shop.
I'll let you know when she calms down.
Mel
Kitchen....
Mel, it is the Kitchen we take over furst, now I can only assume you have done that already!
So how did that work out for ya? Was she on vacation and you cleaned up before she got home? : )
Morgan
AT - You have received many comments about side-mounted router table. I'll add to the discussion with a suggestion for my out-feed table router setup.
The total surface area of 'saw plus router table' is 5' x 5'. Plenty for large or long pieces. I have used a Woodpeckers PRL router lift for about 7 years and love it. I've got a section of hex stock, that I put in my drill and can run the router up to change bits above the table in about 30 seconds. I can't remember the last time I was under the table.
By mounting the router table with hardware store, angle iron I've kept the entire package moveable. (I have to pull it out to empty the cyclone chip barrel.) The saw came with an HTC base; I never bother with the locks because it has never moved while I was sawing.
Frosty
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled