Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 28, 2006 07:54pm | #1

   You need a table that is flat and will remain flat, has a hole big enough to accomodate the various bits you're apt to be using and, unless you plan to build your own fence, a fence that's rock stead, reasonably easy to adjust, and will accomodate accessories you might use.

   I selected the Veritas solid steel table top.  It can be set on a small portable stand, a complete cabinet-style stand with drawers and such, or on a frame hinged to your table saw wing.  On the page linked above, you can select to look at all of Lee Valley's options, but building your own stand, cabinet or wing-frame would be what I suggest (to save money; the stand is dead-simple to build).  The table comes with instructions on building a stand. 

   One huge advantage to their table above others is the universal clamping system, which enables you to mount any router you have to the table without having to make an insert to fit.  And you can easily remove your router for hand work or maintenance. 

   I had the table for a couple/three years before I finally bought the fence.  I really like the fence, but have done a few hardware replacements (replacing allen screws) to make it more user friendly, with more to come.  Pddydahat has perfected the upgrades on this fence, if memory serves, and would have more specific info on the knobs he used.

   Here's a long thread on "compact router tables."
   http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=30513.1

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

1. 
   royh | Oct 29, 2006 12:13am | #3

   Hi FG,

   Would the sled offered by Veritas accomplish the same thing as a miter gauge with slot(s) offered on non-steel tables? Just wondering as I'm seriously thinking of going for the Veritas table.

   Thanks!

   roy

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 29, 2006 12:20am | #4

   Yes.  Problem with a miter slot is, you have to be sure the fence is parallel to it.  I started thinking outside the box when a Bench Dog salesman, older guy, shared his opinion that miter slots on router tables are simply a good place to accumulate sawdust. <grin>

   I've done end-grain routing without the sled, before I got the fence.  You can make jigs to help out.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   royh | Oct 29, 2006 01:49am | #6

   Thanks much. The link to the long thread in your previous post was most enlightening as well. It looks like a winner.

   Cheers, --roy

2. 
   royh | Nov 12, 2006 02:40am | #14

   Just received the Veritas router top, fence and small stand (not the cabinet). Came with a video and DVD (over an hour's worth of demo). Also included was a palm-sized screwdriver deal with four drivers (phillips, slot, sq drive and hex ) all packed in the interior of the handle along with a rare earth magnet that magnetizes the bit holder and driver. Strong enough to stick the butt end of the thing on the underside of the table to grab it when needed. Subfences attach with phillips driver and the lower fence adjusts on the top section with slotted screws.  Why not the same style? Why the hex and square drivers? Nice adds though. A microadjust unit is included for fine fence adjustments. Hung the Freud bad boy under there and haven't looked back. What a great piece of equipment. Am looking forward to using this thing all winter.  Great company to deal with too when some parts were missing; those came in 36 hr. Thanks for the promo!

   RoyH

1. 
   forestgirl | Nov 12, 2006 04:13am | #15

   Wow, you're off and runnin', eh??!  That's Great!!  I can't remember, did I post the link with the "improvements" PDH has made to his??  I'm in the middle of somethin' right now, but I'll check later.

   Glad you like it. Never did like the idea of being tarred and feathered, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   royh | Nov 12, 2006 06:47am | #16

   Yes, in the long other thread link you posted earlier in this thread, there was some goings on about PDH's improvements. I'll have to go back and sift through that again. Thanks, --RoyH

3. 
   forestgirl | Nov 12, 2006 07:59am | #17

   I think when the 3 of us get it totally tricked out (tweaked for user-friendliness), we should write everything up and send it to Lee.  I'd really like the fence to be a bit more streamlined in adjusting things.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

4. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Nov 13, 2006 05:20am | #18

   FG. I am heading down to Tn. on Sat. and in this trip I have less things planned (surely not getting sick again for two weeks) Just the set up of a unisaw and the delvery of an 1800's secretary, local business and hopefully some productive play that gives me table time on the LV set up. You and Mr. Ax will be next to know of any revelations.

   Looking to leave Tn. 12/12-14 and be back on net 12/ 17-18, have to stop in Pa. to see the grandkids. ALL THE BEST PADDY.(HAPPY TURKEY TO ALL)

    

5. 
   forestgirl | Nov 13, 2006 06:26am | #19

   Have fun with the grandkids!!  Happy Turkey Day to you too!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   MSS325 | Nov 13, 2006 09:36pm | #21

   I have this top and love it! I also have the Veritas fence. The two together make for a solid,versatile system.  

2. 
   csacoe | Oct 28, 2006 07:56pm | #2

   Jessum makes the best router table that I'am aware of. It's best when used with

   a 3 1/2 horse PC. Get the one with that adjusts from the side. Not from the top.

   If your budget won't allow you to get a Jessum right now, you might consider

   making your table. Thats what I would do. There are all kind of great plans and ideas

   for making one.

1. 
   JIMMIE | Oct 31, 2006 05:13pm | #8

   I'm in the process of building my own...took some ideas from Pat Warner and American Woodworker plans.  Can you provide me with info to see other plans?

   Thank You

    

1. 
   csacoe | Nov 01, 2006 04:51am | #10

   Hi Jimmie,

    I do apologize that I'am unable to put my hands on the book at the moment.

   But surely, with all the resources available, on this fine web site, there should be one that you'll like or be able to use. If not, I would consider designing my own if I were you. FWW  "Tools and Shops" issue  #181 has a router table review article in it. The Woodhaven model 8244k cabinet looks like a nice design to use as an inspiration model. All a table consists of is a solid stand or base. A simple but true top with a lift and a fence. I've seen pics of a fence being nothing more than two boards joined at a right angle with an opening big enough to accomodate a router bit and held in place with clamps. Yeung Chans' book ," Classic Joints with Power Tools ", shows how to make quite a few different jigs too. Let me know what you decide to do, and I'll keep a look out for that misplaced book.

   Brooks

3. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Oct 29, 2006 01:42am | #5

   Koos, I have been through almost every table, Sears sheetmetal 1966. a friends alunimium 1980, mdf factory made 1990, mdf top built by me with all edges sealed/alum tracks etc. and blessed in Rome, that eventually had more hills and valleys than the Alps.

   I finally dropped the $ for the Veritas top, fence,sled and a few necessary parts ie. spring hold downs stops etc.  I hung a Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp. and there is NO sag- not even a thought of one- and it is deadly accurate with no excuses . I should have done it sooner. I don't expect to ever replace it.

   I put it on their wood stands as I was pressed for time but it's easy to do your own with their specs. Order the video( less than $10) to understand their concepts-they work very well-from http://www.leevalley.com they will (I think) credit the shipping if you buy the system later. Better still call them and ask, they are really great customer support folks. All the best, Pat

4. 
   bones | Oct 29, 2006 09:10pm | #7

   Take that money, and build you a table. I looked at the jessum and bench dog, and ended up buying Norm's plans at the new yankee workshop, and don't regret it.  It has plenty of storage and a nice top.  I bought the woodpeck prl for the plate, and teamed it with the PC 7518.  It's been a heck of a combo.  Make your own, you won't regret it, and it's fun. 

5. 
   JeffHeath | Oct 31, 2006 11:43pm | #9

   A few hundred bucks won't get you a good one. 

   I'm on my third table now, and I bought the entire Jessem setup.  Paid around $1000 for all of it, including table, lift, miter slide, and stand.  It's the best I've ever seen in every way.

   If you have plenty of time, you can make your own, as others suggest.  It'll be decent, but won't compare to jessems setup.

   Jeff

1. 
   csacoe | Nov 02, 2006 03:48am | #11

   I have to agree with you on the quality of the Jessum system. Thier top line package is what I use, with the PC 3 1/2 horse.  It's just a pleasure to use.

6. 
   arizonian | Nov 10, 2006 01:01am | #12

   Hello, I also was in the same situation, had a cheapy sears, after much research I ended building my own around the Porter Cable 8529, it was a lot of fun and the results couldn't be better, here is a picture, build your own it's a lot of fun

   
1. 
   JIMMIE | Nov 13, 2006 07:48pm | #20

   Is the top MDF? If so, what type of finish did you use on it?

1. 
   arizonian | Nov 13, 2006 09:55pm | #22

   Hello, yes the top is made of two 3/4" boards, covered with formica on the two sides, also the removable fences are covered with formica, here are some other pictures

   
1. 
   SCMedLion | Nov 13, 2006 10:04pm | #23

   Wow.  That's inspiring.

2. 
   ram | Nov 13, 2006 11:09pm | #24

   That table is a tour de force of design and constructions!

   Do you have any drawings or pix to show how the interior dust collection integrates with the router & lift?

   -robert

1. 
   arizonian | Nov 15, 2006 02:32am | #28

   Hello Robert, thanks for the compliments,  unfortunatelly I do not make any drawings, I just do it by imagination, I made the dust collection with materials easily available at Lowes: 1-1/2" O.D. plastic sink tubes with 1-3/4" O.D. rim at one end,  plastic flexible bilge pump hose which has this 1-1/2" I.D. indentations every 12 inches which fit perfectly in the tubes without the need of clamps, the tubes can be mounted in the wooden holders with the help of 1-1/2 and 1-3/4" forstner bits, they fit perfectly without any glue, the hose fits also perfectly over the dust connection that comes with this PC router, by the way, the way the spindle lock is designed in this router allowed me to adapt a handle in the front of the table, with a pull of the handle the spindle is locked very easily and the change of bits can be made in a snap.

3. 
   JIMMIE | Nov 14, 2006 03:39pm | #26

   That is absolutely fanatstic!!!! That belongs in your living room...not your workshop!!!

   Thank You for the pics.

1. 
   arizonian | Nov 15, 2006 02:04am | #27

   Thanks a lot!

4. 
   royh | Nov 15, 2006 02:56am | #29

   Drawings or not, I hope the FWW magazine editors are looking. This piece deserves some attention. If not, you have us looking on in true admiration. Thanks for the informative pics.

   RoyH

7. 
   jb3 | Nov 10, 2006 10:00pm | #13

   I bought the Veritas steel top,  fence, and small stand and it all worked great.  I eventually built a full size router table, and recessed the steel top flush with the Formica.  I used two small aluminum rails on each side of the router table to enable the use of the  fence clamps that come with the Veritas fence.  Works well for me.  An unadvertised advantage of the Veritas steel top, is the ability to change bits from above the table.  I removed the plastic router base, and installed the router directly to the top.  The top is 3/16" thick so the router collet comes up high enough to not require a bent wrench.

8. 
   docotter | Nov 14, 2006 08:09am | #25

   I recently went from my freestanding shop built router table to a Benchdog ProMax cast iron top attached to my Unisaw. It came with a phenolic plate predrilled for the usual suspects. I added the aluminum plate, which has the advantage of having a starting pin and rings that provide variable bit hole sizes. Thus far, I like it a lot.