Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 16, 2004 04:07am | #1

   I first saw that RT-1000 table on eBay, being sold by the original designer and maker I believe.  Looked like a pretty decent table and a reasonable price.  Looks like maybe he's making them wholesale for King Canada now. 

   forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

2. 
   TomFerreira | Jan 16, 2004 06:58am | #2

   Wanda,

   Why not build it yourself? I built the NYW plan and it was fun.

   TDF

   
1. 
   Strongbow | Jan 20, 2004 10:18pm | #22

   Nice Router Table.......

   I just saw Norm a couple of weeks ago make this one.

   I agree with you that it is far better making a router table.

   I kicked off with a bought table from a UK supplier, which was supposed to be No1. When it arrived the table had too rough a finish, and the insert was 1/32 below the surface which made small sections get stuck when fed through against the fence.

   I just noted the problems, took the good design points, wrapped the whole thing up and sent it back.

   Then I sat down and designed my own....and I have never looked back.

   Mike

1. 
   TomFerreira | Jan 21, 2004 03:59am | #23

   Thanks Mike. I sometimes think people here miss the point though. This really was a very interesting project, a very usefull project, and it doesn't have to be expensive. It's great for those who are a bit apprehensive about their skill. You don't really have to worry about making a big mistake because it's only for the shop. And, in the end, it is satisfying every time you fire it up. I went really high end with the woodpeckers router lift, the PC7518 router motor, and I even bought the oscillating spindle sander plate with the PC OSS, so the table does double duty. But, you could use a cheaper router plate and a smaller router and still have a great tool in the end. Frenchy is exactly right when he says you could easily buy a shaper for less, but I wouldn't trade this for anything. I looked at shapers and they have crappy fences, no storage, and take up lots of room which maybe okay if your doing heavy duty production work. But in a small shop this works really well.

   TDF

1. 
   Strongbow | Jan 23, 2004 01:21am | #26

   You know one thing about some of the stuff over here is the price!!

   Many of the UK woodworking mags have letters asking why the cost of router lifts etc are so much higher than the US...and they realy don't get answers...but we all know the UK importers are ripping us off.

   I just used one of the phenolic inserts and a router with a  large knob fine height adjuster and it works just fine.

   When I look at some of those manufactured tables they sell in the US and the price of accessories for making tennons, finger joints etc I shudder to think of the cost...and some times they don't make the job any easier or quicker to do. It's a bit like setting up a dovetail jig....fine for 20 off drawers...but for a one off the mark out and cut with a dovetail saw makes just the same joint in half the time......

   and you know what, the more complicated you make things the harder it is remembering how to assemble the pieces before you actually use them........I know with this damb computer It has spread sheets, financial planning etc...but when I start to use them after not using them for some time....well you understand...the memory just isn't the same these days!!!!!!

   Maybe I should take up cookery!!!!!!!

   Take care Tom

   Mike

3. 
   RandMCapozzi | Jan 16, 2004 05:05pm | #3

   Wanda,

   I've been using the NYW router table for a few years now. Based on my experience using it, I have the following observations on the King Canada router table.

   1. A taller fence would be better. I comes in handy for tall pieces as well as providing a place to clamp feather boards.

   2. I would prefer a large drawer or two at the bottom of the table. A drawer will help reduce the look of clutter in your shop and provide one less area for dust to collect. 

   3. I would suggest a larger dust collection port than 2 3/4" (seems like an odd size). I installed a 4" port and dropped down to a 2 1/2" sized port because I only had a shop vac. This worked ok but didn't catch everything. If you move to a real DC you will need atleast 4". When I switched to my DC and was able to use the 4" all the dust was pulled out. You may also find out that the size of the holes in the front of the door may not be enough to make up for the DC suction. This could be easily corrected though.

   4. You may also find that the MDF is not slick enough for you. I prefer a slick surface like a laminate when routing. This could be easily corrected though by applying a good top coat on the table top. Something to consider if you purchase it.

   5. I like the large table overhangs. This is something I don't have enough of and would modify on the NYW design if I were to build it again. It is very useful for clamping feather boards.

   I think the table looks like a good one. I do think that the NYW table is a more refined design (especially the recently updated version). It would also probably save you about $150 as well. Of course it will take a bit longer to build it than just buy one. Hope this was helpful.

   Good luck!

   --Rob 

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 16, 2004 08:27pm | #4

   Rob, I tried to find old pics of the RT-1000 table (I had bookmarked it, hoped it might be in my off-line cache), but I guess I deleted the bookmarks after getting the Veritas table top.  My recollection is that the table has a laminate overlay.  The price on it when it was sold at the originator's web site (and on eBay) was very attractive, and I could find little seriously wrong with the table's design and construction, especially given the price.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   RandMCapozzi | Jan 16, 2004 10:52pm | #8

   It was difficult to tell from the picture I was looking at. It certainly looks like a nice table. I suppose I pick at the things I saw that I would improve on.

   The table looks like it has plenty of space. The drawers look like they would handle tall bits (a nice plus), the cabinet looks very solid, and includes a toe kick so you can comfortably stand close to the cabinet. All the things I pointed out could be easily added to this table in due time if desired. If I didn't want to build a table, this one would get my vote.

   BTW - I included the pic from the King Canada web site.

   --Rob

   
1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 17, 2004 02:31am | #10

   Rob, I thought your points were excellent.  Wish I could remember more about the construction details.  Sounds like Wanda will be able to see it up close and in person soon.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   Wanda200 | Jan 17, 2004 03:07am | #11

   Hi everyone,

   You sure have given me a lot to think over. I could buy the LeeValley router top like you suggested Forest Girl and build my very own base using the design in one of my woodworking books. My local tool shop sells the R-1000. They have a man in Newbrunswich who builds them. Now they have the King name. hmmmm  Anyways whatever I decide I don't think I'll be too disappointed. The price is very reasonable. One advantage to the LeeValley r/t is the fact that it will accommodate any brand of router. That's a real plus. I will have to check to see what types of router this King R-1000 can take.

   I'm very tempted to build my own. but it would cost me double if I were to buy the LeeValley table top for $389.00 and then have to dish out approxl. another $300 for materials to build the base. That's why I'm leaning towards buying the R-1000.

   Rob thanks for mentioning the dust chute. Maybe it can be adjusted. I'm not too concerned about the drawers. I have a large workbench for storing items plus I can always build a small cabinet for more storage if I have to. As long as it has a sturdy slick top that's what matters. I'll be sure to check out the height of the fence. You're probably right it doen't look that tall. And I'll  definitely want to be able to clamp auxilary fences to it. 

   The local toolshop has one on order so as soon as they get it in I'll go have a look at it.  

   I have a deluxe plan in my woodworking book for a r/t...... I should check out the materials list just out of curiosity and see how much it would cost to build.   I will check out the measurements for the dust chute.

   Wanda

   PS.... thanks Rob for those pointers........ I should print out your e-mail. LOL

2. 
   BG | Jan 17, 2004 03:28am | #13

   Wanda,

   I too built my router table last summer..like Tom F's only not as pretty.  To build that unit..MINUS the TOP...it takes two sheets of 3/4 ply, a sheet of 1/2 ply and a bit of oak for trim..total cost about $125.  I did not put in the fancy switch (used a plug in strip, surge protector) ...and I had the wheels.  The top can add quite a bit of cost.

   It is also a very easy build with the NYW plans...one to two days...

3. 
   forestgirl | Jan 17, 2004 03:32am | #14

   Wanda, where are you getting the $389 $CA for the table top?????  When I checked the web site, using CA$$s I saw $199 posted as the price for just the top.  Are you including the fence, maybe?forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

4. 
   smijal | Jan 22, 2004 12:56am | #25

   Forestgirl,

   Look at this table on Ebay.  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2374758944&category=20781

   I bought one of these about a week ago beacuse I need one now and cannot build one first.

   Top is 1.5 inches of particleboard covered on both top and bottom with high pressure laminate . Plywood of case is baltic birch plywood. Fence has two adjustable faces, but is somewhat lower than I prefer.

   Shipping on the table was a significant cost ($70 for me), but still not a bad overall price.

2. 
   user-477744 | Jan 18, 2004 08:27pm | #17

   I just looked at the Lee Valley site and the Veritas router table top.  I'm getting ready to build my router table and was wondering if the claim of "no sag" does apply?  Thank You for any "hands on" info.

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 18, 2004 11:46pm | #18

   Shoppy, I can't see how it could sag or otherwise deform as long as the outside edges are supported equally (flat) all the way around.  It is solid steel so unless you hang something considerably bigger than a 3.5HP router from the brackets, it ain't gonna sag.  They also build in an ever-so-slight curve at the hole.  "This curve is specifically set so that the weight of the router cannot deform the router table to concave."  (see this page)   The only caveat, passed on from the owner's manual, is that when you build the table or frame to place it on, you want the support that goes around the underneath edge of the table to be flat and equally in contact all the way around the table.  I suppose if there was a gap somewhere, gravity could work some kind of magic over the years to pull the plate out of flat.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   PeterDurand | Jan 20, 2004 07:03am | #19

   Another caveat is that it is damn heavy. I had one a few years ago and sold it. Lifting that steel top to change the bits was a real pain.

   I have graduated to a normal router table with an aluminum plate which does not sag.

   I am a great fan of Lee Vally, but not for this product.

   Cheers,

   Peter 

4. 
   forestgirl | Jan 16, 2004 08:34pm | #5

   Wanda, why not buy just the top ($199 Canadian) and build your own base?  That small stand you see in the pics is for benchtop use.  I'll agree, the bigger stand doesn't really offer much.  You're going to get alot of advice here at Knots to build your own table.  Buying the top is a compromise to that, and in my mind a smart one.  That top will never sag, you'll be able to put any router you ever buy into it without making a new insert, and it's compatibility with magnetic accessories, which I find very useful.

   forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   jackplane | Jan 16, 2004 08:40pm | #6

   Like Tom, said above, why not just build one? Four legs and a top,basically.Straightforward, and the price is right.

1. 
   JDorn | Jan 16, 2004 09:57pm | #7

   I vote for "build your own" as well, this is a woodworking forum :)  Even though its not furniture, I find that every thing I build, from furniture for the house to accessories for my shop teaches me something I didn't know before.  Practice makes perfect :)

   Plus by building it yourself you can get exactly the options you want, instead of the ones some manufacturer things would appeal to a wide demographic.  I have my router in my Unisaws extension table.  Its not hard to build a top that wont sag either, just glue 2 pieces of MDF 3/4 thick together and that top won't be going anywhere anytime soon. 

   JD

1. 
   RandMCapozzi | Jan 16, 2004 10:57pm | #9

   Not furniture? Hmm. I like to build my shop stuff like furniture. This way when I do something wrong (at least if you ask my wife I did something wrong) I can sit down at a stool, and have dinner off my router errr.. dinning table.  ha ha ha...

   --Rob

2. 
   Wanda200 | Jan 17, 2004 03:13am | #12

   HI Forest Girl,

   Would you be able to post a picture of your LeeValley router table? Did you buy the bench type base  or  build your own base?

   Wanda

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 17, 2004 03:37am | #15

   Hi again, Wanda.  I bought the top only second hand from someone on-line.  I built a simple frame that hangs off my saw and drops out of the way when I need more maneuvering room around the saw.  I'll build a cabinet as soon as I get a couple more square feet of space freed up in the shop.  Here is a link to the pages I posted shortly after I got it done.  (Sorry for the lighting -- didn't think to set up the halogens for the pics.)

   http://www.islandpastimes.com/Knots/VeritasRT1.htm  forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   aew | Jan 20, 2004 05:08pm | #20

   I was all set to buy the LV router table top and then noticed the relatively small size.  I am currently using a very old shop built unit that is approximately 24 x 36 and the LV is a lot smaller (18 x 24?).  It seems to me the smaller size is a disadvantage for end work (I do a fair amount of door work).

   Has the smaller size been a disadvantage?

   I also noted in a previous discussion that the fence system for the LV wasn't as well designed as someone expected.  Are you using the LV fence and if so, what is your experience with it?

   aew

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 20, 2004 08:15pm | #21

   For me, the Veritas table seem big!  But then, I don't make doors <g>.  I don't have the fence (yet).  Let me see if I can get Brian in here -- he bought the whole outfit last year, seems to really like it, and would probably gives us some insight.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

2. 
   Wanda200 | Jan 21, 2004 09:14pm | #24

   Hi,

   Sorry I haven't replied to any of your responses to my e-mail .  I've been so busy reseraching computer systems I haven't had much time to think about woodworking projects and tools. LOL 

   With regards to router tables the LeeValley router table top is a wee bit small. It's only disadvantage as far as I can tell by reading the specs. Other than that I don't find anything wrong with it. Remember the R-1000 router table I was telling you about. The one made in Canada. It's the one I've choosen to purchase. I found out that the R-1000 is a very good r/t from a friend of mine that builds furniture.  I should have consulted him earlier I guess.  He's been using it in his shop now for 5 yrs. and he has no complaints. It's used practically every day so it must be durable.

   Thanks everybody for your input.  At least I have my router table problem solved. What a relief. I think I'll be more than happy with the R-1000 by King Canada

   PS thanks for the photoes forestgirl.  They jogged my memory you posted them here on the forum before. Great pics!  You've got quite the setup.

5. 
   RANGERP75R | Jan 18, 2004 03:19am | #16

   wanda

      I agree that a router table is a valuable asset to routing. You precision will improve with it and things go much faster than having to clamp on hand-held. Buying, building or a combo of both is a decision you have to make. If you got the bucks and no time, buy. If you got the time and no bucks, build.

      I prefer to build as I get what I persoanlly want where I want it and hey, I'm a cheap-skate. The pic below has a home-made cabinet, top and fence. With the phenolic router insert I did buy, I have about $100 in the whole shooting match. Just my approach. Good luck with yours!

   Regards...

   sarge..jt

   Proud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)