I was over at my local Home Depot today, looking at some router table materials. Bying a table commercially can get really expensive, especially if you want a good table. I found three different materials which I thought were suitable for the top: laminate, melamine, and vinyl covered MDF. Of the three, the laminate is the most expensive, $50 cdn for a sheet 4′ by 8′ (I think). The vinyl covered MDF was cheap; only $5 cdn for a 2′ by 4′ sheet. It was only 1/4″ think, but if I use it, I will attach it to a sheet of 3/4″ MDF. The melamine was somewhere inbetween; I can’t remember.
I want your opinion. Which would provide the best surface for a router table? A 2′ by 4′ table is large enough for me. Is it worth the $50 for the laminate?
By the way, is there an advantage of using MDF over sanded plywood?
Replies
Your router table must be stiff enough to not sag under the weight of the router, and stable (against moisture changes). Many people use scrap countertop material from bathrooms and such. If you look around, you should be able to find something that's not a "full sheet" and you can get either cheap or free. I've got three of these sitting in storage.
Lee Valley-Veritas sells my favorite candidate for a router table top, 3/16th inch steel, universal router mount. I've got one coming via UPS, so I'll know soon if it's as nice as it looks. Accessories are very reasonably priced. Top is $149US, Table and fence package is $179US.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I looked long and hard at that Lee Valley router table top but in the end I rejected it for one overriding reason - no miter gauge slot. How can you use a cope bit on the end of a rail without a miter gauge?
I love the idea of a 3/16" steel FLAT surface table top. I love the idea of the insertable rings and the large max bit hole diameter. I love Lee Valley's quality and service. I even love their larger non-standard router bushings because the mounting hole is less limiting on the max bit diameter. So what did I get instead?
I got Lee Valley's insert-it-from-the-bottom router baseplate with foolproof mounting system to go into my shop built router table. 9" diameter x 1/4" phenolic (no sag), 1-3/4 counterbored 1-1/2" center hole sized for Lee Valley's bushings (so I got a set of those too, along with a reduction fitting to make a 3/4" bit hole).
I'll later pick up a second baseplate and enlarge the hole for those few times I need to use a 2+" diameter bit. Most of that work should be done on a shaper anyway.
I am building a new router table to replace the old 1-1/8 plywood with one sided laminate table that has over the years developed a slight cup, probably because I laminated only one side. Its replacement will be taken from Woodsmith's October, 2000 issue #131.
The top is 3/4" hardwood ply, 21-1/2"x28-1/2", laminated both sides with 1/4" hardboard, then edged 3/4" with mitered hardwood, corners radiused to 1", then plastic laminated both sides. This gives a flat and stable top a bit over 1-1/4" thick by 23"x30". It also calles for a DualTrack (aluminum combo 3/4" miter slot & 3/8x3/4 T-track to be inlet to the surface. My own version will be slightly larger, probably 24"x36" finished size.
They also detail a very nice 2-piece storage base stand and transportable sound/dust control cabinet. That will come a bit later.--
Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon
On the Redwood Highway
Many moons ago, there was a head-butting discussion about the whole miter gauge slot thing. Personally, I think it'll be fine. I use magnetic featherboards, and the LV-V table has spring-stockholders that I like. If I need a wood featherboard, I can simply clamp it to the table. Their fence accomodates a right-angle sled, and there are other home-made doo-dahs to accomplish the same thing. There are even some out there (not necessarily me) who feel the miter gauge slot is simply another dust-collector.
Hope you'll post pics of your new set-up in the Gallery!! Happy New Year.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Years ago I built my first router table top out of a piece of veneer grade 3/4" birch plywood. I varnished and waxed it, cut out a hole for a router plate insert, and clamped on a piece of straight hardwood for a fence.
I know it sounds pretty primitive and flimsy, but it got me through a couple of years until I could figure out what sort of set-up would work best for me.
I then built a table out of 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF, with laminate on the surface and a JoinTech fence .
I gave the old table to a friend, and he is still using it.
Of course I will, Jamie. But it will be a few weeks. I've got a few other priorities right now. I will get the base mounted to the router and the basic top made, but it will just be hung on sawhorses to get a project or two done before the end of the month.
This week will be a time dcrunch as the wife is having a medical procedure on Wednesday that I must drive her to and from. Nothing serious, but sedation rules out her driving herself. Then Friday we drive down to SF Bay Area to visit my dad (he's 94 on Jan 8th) and attend an annual meeting.
And a Happy New Year to you and yours!
--
Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon
On the Redwood Highway
Lee, hope things go well on Wednesday and that you have a safe and dry trip to SF and back. Take care!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Chris,
The vinyl covered MDF is the least durable of the three, and will eventually become dinged and scratched up. Depending on which laminate you choose, this option could be the smoothest surface of the three, but you'll have to contact cement it to your MDF and roll/press it thoroughly to remove any air bubbles. Melamine, while you don't get to choose the surface texture, is laminate that has already been mounted for you. Home Depot has this in 2'x4' sheets. I've built a few large router (and other) tables out of all three materials. For your purpose, I'd recommend the melamine. Be sure to scuff sand one side of the melamine for best adhesion to the sub-table top.
Please feel free to e-mail me any questions that might arise.
Dan Kornfeld, President/Owner - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Is all laminate equal or are some types better than others? How can you tell which laminate is good or not? In my local paper, there is a classified add for laminate: 49 cents for a square foot of laminate. Is this too good to be true, or is it a bargain?
Thanks, Chris
Chris,
For the most part most countertop (e.g. kitchen, bathroom) laminates are the same - a thin plastic sheet made to be contact cemented to a substrate of particle board or MDF. The differences will be in color, pattern, and sometimes texture. Textures range from a super smooth, like Formica, to ones that are like an orange peel to the touch.
The 49 cent per square foot laminate that you saw in you local paper was most likely flooring laminate, which is sold by the square foot. If it is, you don't want it. The router table top will have a series of seams along the surface, and you need one as smooth as possible (one continuous sheet).
Usually laminate sheet sold at home centers are in 4'x8' sheets that are cut down to size by the installer. (You might see if a local countertop installer has a scrap piece that you could buy or have cheap). If you are going to cut down a sheet yourself, be sure to use an table saw blade specifically used for laminates. This will be a 40+ tooth, carbide tipped blade sometimes called a TC&F (Triple-Chip-&- Flat Grind). TC&F blades are usually used for cutting melamine. A zero clearance table saw throat plate is a must to prevent massive chip-out.
Cut your sheet 4" wider and longer than the substrate. This will allow you 2" of overhang on all sides. Once the top is in place, and the glue has cured, use a sharp flush trim laminate bit in your router to cut the top to final size.
Please let me know if you have any additional questions.
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Dan
Totally unrelated to router tops, but I was going to post this question concerning laminates. Think you might be able to answer it. Ha... Pretty sure you will be able to answer it.
I'm building a counter for my company 36" feet long to go in a vintage muscle car showroom and reception center. Got the frame-work construcded and they want laminate on the fronts and sides. Having only used laminate on WW related tables and jigs, I need some advice.
What are my options to use as a base for the laminate other than MDF and particle board. Working alone it is difficult to deal with 4 x 8 sheets of MDF (weight factor). This counter is 45" high by 36' long. Can I put laminate over something a little lighter as 1/2" laun plywood or birch plywood. I hate to laminate over birch, but we do have quite a bit left over from a project at work. And it is definitely lighter and structually sound.
Any insight into this dilema would be appreciated. I need to make a decision by Monday to stay on schedule. If anyone else has ideas, in-put is welcome.
Have a good evening and thanks...
sarge..jt
Sarge,
Your Birch plywood would be a perfect substrate to a plastic laminate. It's very stable, so there's little chance of it warping. 3/4" thick would be optimum, but if it isn't, you can always layer up one side with luan. The plywood will need to be dry, if its been stored in a damp garage, basement, etc... you'll need to put it some place where it can dry flat. If the birch is good to go as far as its moisture content, lay a straight edge at different spots along its width, along its length, and diagonally across in both directions to make sure that it is perfectly flat. (MDF and plywood can sag under it own weight over time.) Lay the birch on an even surface and give it the once over with a palm sander loaded with 150 and 220 paper. Nothing too major, just enough to evenly smooth out any rough surfaces. If there are any knots, splits, or blemishes, they will need to be filled and left to dry before applying the glue and laminate. With that done, a thorough surface cleaning is next. Vacuum the all of the dust you can off of the birch, if you have a compressor, give it a blast of air to remove whatever dust is left. The final step is to lightly wipe the birch with denatured alcohol on a clean white rag. This will remove any impurities that might effect adhesion. (Give it a few minutes to evaporate before applying glue.)
Here are the tools you'll need. (1) contact cement, (2) a palm sander with 150 & 220 paper, (3) a large roller (the small J rollers will break you back on a large surface), (4) clean white rags & denatured alcohol, (5) a router with a flush trim laminate bit, (6) and either (one of the following) long wooden dowels, craft paper, butcher paper, or even you kitchen wax paper - to be used between the wood and the laminate during glue-up (see below).
I would recommend doing each step one at a time to all of the birch plywood (sand each one, clean each one, etc...) assembly line style. Things will move a lot faster, and if you have any help, there won't be someone trying to lay down glue while another is sanding!
With the birch plywood clean and ready to go, cut the laminate 2" wider and longer on all sides. To make the glue-up go even faster, use a paint roller with a roller cover made for adhesives. Roll an even layer of the contact cement onto both the birch and the laminate, let it set up for 10-15 minutes (whatever the can's label recommends) and add a second layer of glue. Let that dry for the appropriate amount of time, and you're set to stick it all together. (The assembly line approach works well, because by the time you're applying a first layer of glue to the last board, you can immediately go back and put a second coat on the first.)
Lay your dowels (or whatever you've chosen) across the plywood evenly spaced, so that as you lay the laminate on top, the two glued surfaces don't touch. Start by pulling the center divider out, and use your hands to push the middle of the birch and laminate together. Then hit it with your roller, starting in the center and pushing outwards. Then just pull the spacers working from the middle of the board outwards. Give it all a final firm roll down, wait a few minutes, then fire up the router and buzz off the excess. Start cutting from the middle of one side - it makes it easier than starting on a corner.
All of this will move quickly along, and you should be done in a couple of hours. Just for safety, either round over the edge of the laminate (once applied) with a block and sand paper, or stick on a solid wood edge. The edge of the laminate will be sharp, and you want to avoid chipping.
Please feel free to contact me with any question that might arise.
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Dan
Thanks for the onfo, but could you be a little more detailish with the various steps. ha..ha.. Just kiddin' as you imagine. Wow, for anyone that has never laminated, this shoud be very informative. I will bookmark it to refer to any question I see on how to get the job done.
Actually Dan, I have laminated many times on small surfaces for shop tabletops and jigs. I have never used anything but MDF for the substrate, though. I thought several things could be used other than particle and MDF, but wasn't sure as to the adhesion. I will assess the amount of time it would take to clean up the birch. Have to have them ready by next Wednesday. Deadlines. I've been WW for 30 years and this is the first time I've had a deadline. That's why I was never interested in doing WW commercially. <grin> I have a lot of respect for you guys that do.
I did learn something here though. I have always started at one end with adhering the lam and substrate. I use 1/4" thick yellow pine strips I just rip off a board for the separators. I can see where there would be less likely a chance of getting an air pocket by starting in the middle. I never thought of that. Also was wondering about how to get that contact glue down quicker. A roller with a special cover for laying glue. Was not aware. Will get one as I've never had to laminate anything this big.
Also, I only have a 4" J roller. I wondered if they made anything bigger. Figured they did as it would take forever on a commercial basis. I will get one as my company is paying for anything I might need. We got a quote for $15,000 from a commercial cabinet-maker. We thought he was overpriced and they knew I was a avid WW. Asked me if I would do it. I have always refused to do anything for other than the family, but this company has bent over backwards to accomodate me part-time after I closed my own company after 14 years. I just felt like I owed it to them to save them the money. As it is turning out, they seem to be impressed with my detail and design. It was mentioned Friday that they would like me to work as the resident wood-shop for the company from my home shop. They have noted that with the new 170,000 sq. ft. facility, a lot of new tables, desk, book shelves, etc. is needed.
May take them up as I already told them I will only do this project with a deadline. We suddenly fell into this new facility and we're moving in beginning the 22nd. Not sure yet as it would limit my own personal WW. The good news is after 30 years, there's not much I need as not much room left in the house for anything I make. This may be a sweet set-up as it would allow me to work from my shop, part-time, on salary and still get to do what I am obsessed with. Woodworking....
Thanks for your excellent, detailed, timely answers. If there is anyway I can re-ciprocate the hospitality, please don't hesitate to ask. ( As long is there is no dead-lines, ha..ha )
Have a good evening and again thanks...
sarge..jt
For a chance to woodwork regularly on a salary, I'd sure go for it, Sarge. Keep us informed on your choice.--
Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon
On the Redwood Highway
Lee
Thanks.. Been working 10 to 14 hours a day on this project. It's tough moving all those big panels around by yourself. I had to get clever and improvise a system with furniture dollies. Works pretty well.
I sure have gained a lot of respect for those that build cabinets for a living. Hard work and repetitious. I think I will stick with free standing furniture. This parts counter was a one-timer as far as I'm concerned. ha..ha..
Have a good day...
sarge..jt
Dan
Finally opened your e-mail. Been buried with the project. The deadline got delayed as the special top material did not get on the truck from the manufacturer. They chose a rubber flooring material as on the counters of Advanced Auto and the floor of Pep Boy's. I had to disign with a guess of how thick it is and how it will turn the edge of the substrate top. Still haven't seen it as it will not be in till next Tues.
Have you ever glued rubber. I assume DAP contact cement as used on the laminate will work. ? . I might also have a question when I start stage two which is a semi-round end counter 8' that caps the end of the 36' straight counter. I have never bent laminate before nor saw a cabinet shop do it. I'm guessing you bend it around a form with a thin substrate backing. Will cross that bridge when I get to it and fire the appropriate questions at you when I design it.
The counter has turned out perfect so far. Rolling from the center is a winner, and the foam rollers saved my butt (thanks a million on that one). As you know we're catching the same cold weather in Atlanta as everywhere else. I had to heat the shop to about 75* degrees and cut the gas heat to avoid spark. Worked my hinny off getting the glue down and letting it dry 15 minutes. Then get it J rolled before the heat dropped to low in the shop. I had to open the doors and turn a fan on blowing out to ventilate. I was afraid that glue would not adhere if the material got to cold. Had to do one counter at a time (there are 4 that will tie into two sections with a swinging door in the center and ends). I had the other counters in the back portion of the shop (two car garage and 1/2 basement). Fortunately I have the space to store, but it is a pain moving them one at a time from the back to front shop. I have come up with some clever dollies, etc. with this project. Luckily, I'm pretty good at field improvision. ha..ha..
Thanks for the concern and note..BTW, where are you located?
Have a good evening...
sarge..jt
Sarge,
It sounds like things are really moving along! The contact cement should work to adhere the rubber to the substrate, but you might want to use a non-solvent based cement. Some rubber/vinyl materials react poorly to solvent based glues and will actually melt!
Definitely send me your bending questions. I do extensive bending in my shop, although 90% is done with steam bending. There are a few things that can be done to speed up the process - so when you're ready, let me know.
I'm located in Newton, MA (4 miles outside of Boston). For the past few days the weather has hovered between -5 and 10 degrees!
I've attached a drawing of a panel dolly that I use in my shop. It's built from a standard swivel caster dolly, scrap 2x4's, and some carpet to protect the panels. This could definitely help in moving those big tops. Also, below is a link to Lee Valley to their counter top connectors. These things will keep those end to end pieces tightly together and rock solid!
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.asp?page=41308&category=3,41306&ccurrency=1&SID=
Let me know how it goes!
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Dan
The panel dolly is almost exactly what I improvised. Ha.. I could tackle this project again and do it in half the time with what I've learned so far. I do have a question concerning the cement. The manufacturer recomended non-solvent cement. The flooring company tried to order it, but they did not have in stock. Being ignorant of such matters, what company makes a non-solvent and where can I get it? Got a green light for late Monday or Tuesday if the weather holds. Expecting yet another artic blast here in Atlanta about then.
Just so you don't go mind stagnant, the counter is 44" tall and 8" long. The radius from back to front needs to be about 48" to 54". Just something you can think about during Super Bowl to forget the commercials. ha..ha..
Again thanks for your continuing assistance...
sarge..jt
Sarge,
The contact cement you want is Titebond's Low-Solvent Neoprene-Based Cement (see link below - green can). One of it's many specific uses is adhering rubber to a substrate. You should be able to get this at a good hardware store or home center. If you can't find it, Woodcraft also carries it. The store nearest you is over in Roswell (770) 587-3372. The best part is that this glue will clean up with water.
I saw the somewhat-Super Bowl, and believe me, I could have used the distraction! Just to clarify of the countertop dimensions for the bending - did you mean to say that the counter was 44" high and 8 feet long, with a 48" - 54" diameter at the curve??
What type of wood/material would you like to cap the curved end with? This will determine the best course of action for the bending.
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Contact Cement" border=0 height=276 src="http://www.titebond.com/images/Products/NeoprenePlusTB.gif" style="HEIGHT: 276px; WIDTH: 190px" width=183>
Edited 1/27/2003 12:26:22 AM ET by Jackie Chan
Dan
I am familar with the Woodcraft store in Roswell. I usually use Highland Hardware (since the mid -seventies), they might also have it. Stone Mountain tool just down the street is another valuable source for WW's here in Atlanta also. One of these should hit pay-dirt.
Yes, the counter that ties in on the end of the long counters is 8" long, 44" high and from the back center (48") to the top of the half circle will be in the vicinity of 48" to 54". I will say depth to help clarify. I'm using doug fir to band the 2 sections of straight counter. They wanted black laminate, black rubber top. All black as there is a red wall behind and the flooring is big black and white squares as in an old drug store. I would have banded with a red border, but they're paying the bills. ha..ha.. I triple coated the fir with three coats of black porch and floor low-lustre. I use it in my shop for tool cabinets, etc. because of it's hard finish and durability.
Well, got to get on it. Was up till 5 A.M. with it last nite. Need to make a glue run. Ha...
Thanks mucho... I feel like I'm taking a correspondence course..<G>
sarge..jt
In my area, both at the home centers and from the dedicated laminate dealer, one can buy a much smaller piece than 4 x 8 sheet, and it is sold by the sf. I believe the price is neighborhood of $1.20 /sf for standard colors, up to $1.70 for premium colors. You certainly don't need a premium color. Was it $.49 cents per sf. That could be what you want, and if it is, its a good price. The trade names that I'm familiar with are Formica and Wilson Art. I think they are roughly equivalent. An installer told me years ago that Wilson Art was not quite as desirable to fool with as it's a little thinner and doesn't cut as well. I think both are fine for your purpose and that you will have no problem with either one. I put a mat finish white formica on my router table and I'm quite pleased with it.
jdg
Chris,
I built my router table top out of three layers of 1/2" MDF glued together. I then covered the whole top and sides with plastic laminate (formica). I have different inserts for different routers/ functions, some are transparent lexan and others phenolic resin. I built the table 10 years ago and have no complaints to date. The top is durable, easy to clean, and was inexpensive and easy to make. Good luck.
JB
Chris
I, as Jon use MDF. 3/4" glued to another 1/2". Then cover both sides with laminate. (HD has 2 x 4 sheets already cut) Brace the underside especially around the insert cut-out. Seal the edges with poly. Three coats.
Does MDF have an advantage over sanded plywood? Yes, it comes off the shelf at under .004 flat and is not as likely to have movement and warp over time if totally sealed.
Just my opinion. The table and cabinet I built is over 3 years old and no movement from the top what-so-ever. Have a look for yourself.. BTW, if you look carefully and think I put the feather boards on backwards in haste to get a picture before sundown; you guessed correctly. ha..ha.. I'm kinda dumb..<G>
Good luck..
sarge..jt
Hey, Sarge,
That's a sweet set up! I was thinking about making the Router Table from the 2001 issue of Shops but your's is so impressive I might be swayed. I made my first router table over ten years ago but it's time for a major upgrade.
1) Did you put in a lift?
2) What kind of router did you mount?
3) Did you use plans from anywhere?
4) Is there a vacuum in the cabinet?
5) Can I see some larger pics?
Thanks!
Rich
Rich
Sorry to get back so late. Putting new recepticles and adding lights to shop. I will try to answer your questions in the order they were asked.
No lift, even though would be simple enough. I use a quick crank with the PC 7539. No adjustment except manual with the Bosch 1617EVS. This should answer what routers I use also. Have a insert attached to both. Depends on the need of the project.
What plans did I use. The ones I drew up on notebook paper with a pot of coffee. I looked at several ideas, but as usual didn't quite like any one. Took the good ideas from those along with some individual things I wanted and incorporated. I thought the store bought ones were over-priced and I didn't see a plan that had everything to meet my needs. I usually design my own according to my needs, not what someone else considers my needs.
Vacuum in cabinet. Not anymore. When I got a DC recently, I added a port in the top rear to pull it out. There is a port in the homemade fence that gets most before it drops into the sawdust catching top portion. It is sealed. Underneath that is storage for all router accessories and bits associated with the table.
Larger pics. Will try in the next week to get some of the cabinet, top and fence. The cabinet is made of birch plywood. I already mentioned in earlier post about the top. The fence is layered birch plywood. It is split as I used it with a shim for an edge jointer. Faces move laterally. Slots in table allow fence to move front and rear and lock down. Triple coated poly.
Thats about it. Got about $90 in it without the cost of routers. I always say it's better to spend those big bucks and get what you want than skimp and go without. <grin> I will do my best to get some close ups. Have a good evening...
sarge..jt
Rich
I shot some quick pictures this morning as you requested. Keep in mind I'm not a photographer. <G> The light was not perfect for sure. Hope you can see a little more detail. Any questions, ask.
Regards...
sarge..jt
"I'm not a photographer." Yeah, yeah, yeah -- I remember when you tried to get us to believe you didn't know anything about using these newfangled computer gizmos too. Can't fool us. Here you are, posting these nice, neat, tidy pictures, well-cropped and properly sized. Not pullin' the wood over this girl's eyes!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie
The devil made me do it !!!
I don't know anything about computers. Now, I didn't say that my wife doesn't. She puts those pictures in this box over beside the computer. Then she taught me which buttons to mash to go get them when I need them. I just crunch those buttons and somehow those pictures get inside those tiny wires along with the words and they come out on peoples screen.
I personally think it's "Magic". Did you and she by chance attend the same Women's School of Voodoo..?? I have to be real careful around my house as I am when I'm on this thing. Nothing worse than messin' with Voodoo Women! ha..ha..
Good to hear from you... Been real busy in the shop and will be for another couple of weeks.
Best regards as always...
sarge..jt
Sarge,
I'm no photographer either but I do agree with you, don't quit your day job.
:-)
TDF
Tom
Read my post to Lee and you will guess I won't quit the day job. ha..ha.. I been working 12 to 14 hour days on this project for my company (and I'm part-time). All the big panels are wearing this old man out.
Regards...
sarge..jt
Hello All,
I recently made a router table top using two pieces of 3/4" Birch plywood and laminated it on both sides with Formica and I am very disappointed with the results. The top didn't even come close to being flat. I plan on making another one using MDF (2 layers of 3/4"), but I am concerned of ending up with the same results. I was thinking of getting a sheet of 1/8" aluminum and putting in between the two pieces of the MDF,similar to a flitch beam. Any thoughts of whether or not this will work and if it is really worth going threw the trouble?
Bill Bleiler
Edited 1/19/2003 11:58:38 PM ET by WoodChuc1
I think if you look for the curve (if it exists) in the MDF sheet, plan your cuts such that the curves oppose each other in your two layers, and clamp them such that they are perfectly flat when being glued, you'll be alright. I don't think you need the aluminum.
Chris
I have heard that Corian is a good choice for router table, but haven't used it. A small piece like that might be an offcut for a countertop installer, could contact some of these. Otherwise, Lee Valley in Mississauga had Corian pieces a few months ago, but smaller (maybe 18 x 24" but don't remember - also don't recall how much, probably pricy).
My suggestion if you are worried about cost is to go cheap to start with (vinyl-covered MDF on thick MDF) and move up when you want to try something different. I find myself drilling holes or making grooves in things, and am more reluctant to do so if they are top-of-the line.
Best,
Chris.
Just a few things that might help if their are any cabinet shops near you or shops that use corion counter top material, Ask if you could the scraps that's no good to them instead of spending a lot of money, That's how I pick up a lot of the material I use around the shop, I'm also thinking about building a router cabinet for myself with a drop in insert so I can change routers with out a lot of fuss, now I;m using a hand me down Sears table top router table and it's not big enough ,plus it don't have a fence, You shouldn't have a problem finding plans for this project ,I;ve seen enough of them in woodworking magazines. Good luck in your project!
Chris
A couple of people mentioned it, but here's another vote for using a cut-out from a kitchen cabinet maker. I got a couple of range cut-outs (a little bigger than a sink cut-out) from a local countertop installer for a couple of bucks each. He said that they save them just for this purpose. With a solid surface or laminated top, you can cut and work them with your basic tools as easily as wood or MDF, to put in t-track or whatever size inserts you need. They are as flat a surface you can get and plenty strong enough.
Chris
I use 2-3/4 MDF laminated together , edge banded all 4 sides with 3/4 Maple, lament on top and bottom.
I think if you double up some 3/4 material - particle board,mdf, plywood-edge band it and use lament on the top and bottom it should make a good top.
Make sure you get a good Router mounting plate
Tho the picture is not the greatest, it does show the MDF router table top I've been using for 5 years. It has been soaked in Watco and waxed many times. Quite serviceable, machinable, equal in thickness, trivial to make, cost about 1$. Would not put expensive fence on this table without a good surface to put it on.
Since nearly all material a router table top sees has been milled it doesn't get scuffed much. This slab is showing about 1-3 mils of wear around the cutter. Contrarian? Indeed but why complicate something especially routing stuff when you needn't.
Routers
Chris,
My first router table top was too flexible, so I've made my second. It's suitable. I bought an insert which is a stiff composition material about 3/8" thick with aluminum rings of various diameters to accomodate different diameter bits ($45.00 at one of the woodworking shows). Then I laminated two layers of 3/4" MDF, overlaid with formica (top & bottom) and edge banded with oak. It's plenty stable. My previous top had developed a sag of somewhere between 1/32" and 1/16" due to the weight of the router which definitely is a problem when doing precision work.
Good luck. It looks like you're getting lots of suggestions.
jdg
Have you considered using kitchen top work surface material?
It is already surfaced with..melamine???? is approx 1 to 1 1'2 inchces thick and in the uk is used widely for home made router tables as you can usually pick a 3 or 4 feet long length up for a couple of pounds ( dollars).
well worth looking into at your local Kitchen referbishment outlet.
Mike
Chris, In our area I have been able to pick up a formica section that was cut out of a counter top for the sink. Some builders sell them or others give them away. I paid $5.00 for a piece 20' x 40' which was 3/4" particle board with formica on it. Made a super router table top. Check your local cabinet shops. good luck
Hi, Chris. I don't know where you are or what you have access to in your neck of the woods, but I made a tabletop for a friend several years ago using cultured marble, and it turned out great. This is the same stuff they make bathroom sinks from--very hard and durable, extremely slick on the surface, and can be worked with carbide router bits. I got the top from a fellow in Lafayette, Indiana who has a cultured marble business--1 inch thick, 4 foot by 3 foot, for 60 dollars. it took me a couple days to mill it for the baseplate and miter gauge slot, but it was so fine when i got done with it! You can get any color imaginable, and the fellow who sold it to me milled it totally flat on the top with a big carbide sheet sander thing that is used in the trade just for that purpose. The cultured marble starts out as a fine powder and he mixes it in a cement mixer, then pours it into forms. Here in Indianapolis, the yellow pages lists a dozen or so places that deal in this material. Be forewarned--these tops are heavy and require a very sturdy base, but the finished product sure makes it worth the trouble.
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