I’m not sure if this is the place for this question but here goes. I’m making a box with cherry wood and I need to put an oval brass plaque on the front. I would like to recess the plaque into the wood about 1/2 inch. (I’m using 3/4 stock) How do I rout a recess to the exact dimension of the oval plaque? Thanks for any help.
Frank
Replies
Frank, do you know how to use a template and a template guide on your router?
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Yep, a template. You need a Masonite template and a bushing for your router. I found the best deal on bushings at Woodcraft (click). This set has 2 lock nuts, so you can have 2 routers set up at the same time, useful in some circumstances. I make stands for square "ball cubes" (signed baseballs) and with the right bit, they come out great.
You make the template "a tad" bigger (math skills come in handy here) than the plaque. Clamp the template over the stock and rout away. The key is, practice on scrap until you get the perfect technique down and verify you have the right bushing/bit combo. When the plaque fits like hand-in-glove, go to your stock. It's sweet when it's done!
If you're making a 1/2" deep recess, you'll probably need to do it in a couple passes. How big is the oval? Are you using a plunge or regular router??
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I have never used bushings and a template but I think I understand the basic concept. The oval is about 2 inches high and 3 to 4 inches wide. I have a new ryobi plunge router with their standard bushings. I think I get the idea. I rout around the plaque ( or a same size substitute so as not to scratch the plaque) into the hardboard to make the template, using a bushing. Then do I place the template over the workpiece and use a bigger bushing to get back to the size of the plaque?
Yes and no, Fgnoel. You would have to start with a very narrow bushing and bit to cut around the brass and then, switch to a collar that would be large enough to compensate for the combination of the bit width, and the measurement to the outside of the first collar. Personally, I would trace the plaque and cut that shape out carefully. You need to make sure that the template material thickness will work with the length of the collars you have. I've cut a bunch of my template guide collars down so I can use 1/4" template material. After cutting out the shape of the plaque, I would scribe around the opening what ever the measurement is, from the outside of the collar you use, to the actual cutting edge of the bit. There are other ways to do this but it will give you a chance to re-cut the template and smooth up any previous mistakes you might have made. The smoother the template, the better the cut. Make the template piece large enough so that you can clamp it and still have room to run the router, don't trust double stick tape.There is a bit and collar set available that is designed to cut the inlay as well as the plough. They aren't set up to adapt to an existing inlay as far as I can see. Here's a site with information on that product. It also has some worthwhile information you may find useful.http://www.newwoodworker.com/rotrinlays.html
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hammer says "You need to make sure that the template material thickness will work with the length of the collars you have." That set at Woodcraft works fine with 1/4" hardboard.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I use bushings sometimes but you'll have better luck with a pattern cutter. Make your masonite (tempered both sides) pattern & sand/file it 'til it's right. Then stick it on the box with carpet tape, set your cutting depth and rout. The top bearing will see to it that the pattern is followed. No figuring involved. Be sure you get a cutter with a cutting length that'll work with your depth requirements. Lots of routers don't center the cutter well in a bushing. The pattern cutter solves all that.
See FWW no. 75 for making complimentary templets. Radii accepted down to about the diameter of the cutter or collar, depending on the equipment used to produce the templets. An ellipse presents few surprises but there are technique sensitivites.
Routers
Thanks to all for your comments. It has been very helpful. I can see that I need to practice a few times before working on the actual box.
Frank
Just saw in the newest Woodcraft flyer that their router bushing set goes on sale on April 1st, $17.99 (instead of $29.99). Good deal!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Thanks for the info.
If you're feeling really brave you can skip the template stuff. You can fix the plaque to the wood with double stick tape or a couple spots of hot melt glue then use an exacto knife to trace the plaque. Then remove the plaque and using very shallow cuts route out the waste staying just shy of the knife line until you're at the final depth. Then clean up to the knife line with chisels (probably carving gouges with a wide sweep in your case). Instrument makers use this method for inlaying, although usually to much shallower depths than you're doing. Practicing on scrap would be worthwhile here too.
If you build it he will come.
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