Some people find that a plunge router is easier and more convenient to use in a table, while others argue that a fixed base router is more suited to the work. What type of router should I choose? What are your preferences? Why?
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Chris
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Replies
My Christmas present this year was a PC 7518.....mounted it in the table today...Sweet!
I like the fixed base for the following reasons:
1) The PC plunge routers I've used have some "slop" in them. Not such a big deal for most work...but for really fine stuff...just not as fine-tuneable as the fixed base
2) I don't need plunge in a router table...just adds weight and more things to go wrong...plus, if you're raising the router (raising the bit in the upside-down router) it's hard to do it while the router is in the table...not so with the fixed base.
3) Cost - Plungers are a tad more expensive
4) Next Christmas I want a router lift. The one I want, uses the motor only...and needs no adapter for the 7518. See? You buy an expensive toy with another expensive toy already in the works. Now THAT is marketing!
Have fun and be safe!
lp
I don't have a router table but am planing on making one. I will use a fixed base router. I have a DeWalt plunge router now and the nob has come loose on me once or twice, lifting the bit as I was cutting. I would hate that to happen where the router is under the table and I "assume" it is tight and sturdy - especially when making dovetails or tongue-n-groove cuts.
Marcello
Hi
I had the same problem with my DeWalt router the adjustment knob had a quick release, which released on me more than I cared for. However it came with a free find adjustment screw, which was out of stock when I purchased the router. I have subsequently installed this and it has resolved my problems and I love it on the router table.
I would recommend the triton for table use. It is the only one I know of that is designed specifically for that purpose and it excells at it. Bit changes and height adjustment are so easy it is amazing. Height adjustment is faster than my shapers and has both a coarse and fine adjustment.
I recently built a router table using a Bosch 1617EVS fixed base. I purchased a plate from Woodhaven, which has rings that fit perfectly, Woodhaven also has a good set up for leveling the plate in the table. I considered a router lift but my Bosch height adjustment knob works great even under the table. The table top is birch plywood with support ribs to keep it flat. I built the table fence from a plan featured in American Woodworker several months back, I like the design and it cost very little to make. When I purchased the Bosch I considered the Milwaukee router which has the above table adjustment feature, but it did not have variable speed and soft start like the Bosch.
Robert
Question for u router guys -
Would a shaper do the same things as a router (in a table), plus have the added advantage of being able to crank the bit up and down? I really don't like the way my PC6902 height adjustment works. I have never owned or used a shaper so know little about them. I haven't used my router outside of its table in eons. I'm thinking a shaper would be more suited to my needs.
Don't most shapers have variable speed?
PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood
My shapers are not variable speed. They are two speed (by changing belt position on the sheaves) and reversible. They will do everything a router table will do and they will usually do it better but cutters are more expensive. Height adjustment is pretty fast with the handle but my triton router in a table is faster and easier still. Tom
I think for your duties of totes and such, a router would probably be your best bet overall. the cost of your shaper cutters are so muhc greater then the router. Ive always considered shapers more for big raised panels and mouldings. SPeeds on shapers are 7k and 10k RPM give or take.
My router is the Bosch 3 1/4 HP i think its the xx19evs. Designed for table use, easy to adjust height. Plunge spring override and pretty dang easy.
I have a pc 7518 fixed base in my RT. If I were to do it all over I would go with the hitachi 3 1/4 VS plunge simply because 1) Its cheaper 2) it has a shaft lock so you only have to use one wrench to tighten and loosen the collet.
Now If I were to really do it all over I would go with the delta platinum series shaper
1) After you add everything up the associated cost of a good RT ,router, table/stand, fence, router raizer, ,mounting plate, inserts for the plate ect, its not that much difference in the total price. You get a router bit attachment with the shaper also so you can use your router bits.
2) Its heavy duty and you wont have to take it in for repair much like I did after makeing a hickory kitchen incl. the doors and drawers to get the bearings and bushing changed.
At Darkworks Customer satisfaction Job One..Yea yea were all over it , I got my best guys on it.........
Ron,
When I got my shaper 3 years ago, I followed the same line of reasoning you offer in your post. For the most part, it has worked out just fine. I bought the Delta 1 1/2 hp shaper. Interestingly enough, when I tried to buy this, no one had shapers available! Grizzly, powermatic, etc. were all out of stock! I was able to find this one on the other side of the country. Not sure what happened, but it has been fine.
In any case, the only issue with our thoughts about the shaper is that many router bits are designed for speeds FASTER than the 10-12K available on the shapers. I love my shaper and have not made a router table so far. But there have been times when I would have liked to have had a faster option for the smaller bits. My next job calls for me to match some trim that has 3/8" fluting. The shaper is too slow for that. I may end up having to make a RT as I have to put 4 flutes centered on 1X3 oak. Much easier on a table than to free-hand. Anyway, all your other points are well made.
bb
Edited 12/31/2002 10:45:31 AM ET by big bob
Edited 12/31/2002 10:46:09 AM ET by big bob
HI,
Last week I found at Rockler a Bosch router set for $259. The set comes with a 2HP variable speed moter, 1 fixed base, one plunge base, and 1 specialised base for table mounting ( basically a slightly modyfied fixed base) If you've seen the Bosch routers they use a screw to adjust depth. The table model as stated is based on the fixed base with the exception of no phenolic (plastic) base and an extention to make it easy to turns said screw. The motors of these routers come out and go in quite easy and lock positivley. I've used the plunge base so far and it's just great! No slipping, smooth. Also included is a good quality edge guide. I think this is a great deal and plenty of power for most tasks on a router table.
Sorry I haven't table mouted it yet but it looks like it'll be great.
N
I have the Freud FT2000E plunger. Most of the time I use it in the (shop-built) table. I don't find height adjustment to be a problem - the Freud has a nice big adjustment knob, I don't think even adding a router raiser would make it any easier. And if I'm changing bits (which has to be with the router out of the table) I can rough-set the height with the plunge mechanism and fine-tune it with the knob.
HTH
Graeme
Wow can you tell me why you have to take your router out of the table to change bits? I am planning to purchase the same router, looked it over and was not planing to remove it for bit changes. If there is something I should know now is the time to find out.... I was hoping to reach under with a wrench and loosen chuck. Thanks.
Ray
If your primary use is mid to smaller bits, with an occasional panel raiser thrown in, you should definitely look at Dewalt's new 618 kit. 2 1/4 variable speed with soft start, fixed (for the table) and plunge base for out of the table. Definitely one of the better router kits out there. But if you want a dedicated router for the table and money is not an issue, check out the Triton. I also read Milwaukee is coming out with a larger version of their current router. They have a nice feature of allowing height adjustments from above the table.
I have the Bosch 1617EVS fixed base and it works fine in my table. The height adjustment is as easy and accurate to use under a table as it is above. I change bits with the router under the table too (although I have to bend over to get the wrench in there).
I looked at other routers with mounting in a table as a main criteria. I would go into a store, hold a router upside-down and release the lock. I had a DeWalt fall on the showroom floor. Others did not seem accurate with the weight of the motor hanging on the plate like that. They would shift whenever the lock was released.
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