Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Nov 20, 2012 06:10pm | #1

   One approach would be to add spacer blocks at each end of the template that would adjust the depth of cut as you wish. (Taller block at the shallow end, shorter block at the deeper end.)

2. 
   acornw | Nov 23, 2012 01:15pm | #2

   Easy One

   This is easier than you think.

   Let's assume the finished thickness of this thing is 1". You want the groove to vary by  1/2" from the shallow end to the deep end.

   Start with a board that is 1- 1/2" thick.  Mill the entire groove at 3/4" deep, with a conventional template or method.  

   Then block up the end you want to be shallower by 1/2" (now about 2" thick total - at one end only) or use wedges to support it at the desired angle.  Send thru the planer to rermove about 1/8" or so. Reset planer thickness by another 1/8" and make another pass. Repeat as needed.

   Once you have the face where you like it, remove the block/wedge on the back and turn the thing face down and plane to final thickness.

   Viola!, as they say.

3. 
   BruceKreiel | Dec 06, 2012 09:10am | #3

   I dont understand.

   Thanks for your advice.

   What concerns me is the following:-

   1. The template has to provide for going around the corners.

   2. If I use a one sided template that slopes from the back side to the front, the router will not be parallel to the carving tray surface.

   3. If I use a two sided template, I do not know how to construct the template to go around the corners.

   Please help!

   Thanks,

   [email protected]

1. 
   RalphBarker | Dec 06, 2012 10:35am | #5

   I missed a point

   In your original description, I missed the point that you were thinking of having the grooves be high in the center, and slope to each side, as well as to the one end where the drip tray would be located.

   I don't think it is necessary for the groove to be high in the center. Just lay out the grooves so they radiate from the center, and are at an angle to the centerline, similar to the branches on a Christmas tree. Using sloped (end to end) templates of, say, Masonite, that will provide a corresponding slope to the grooves.

   If you are using a round nose or ball bit, it won't matter that the base of the router is not parallel to the surface, since only the radius portion of the bit will be cutting the grooves.

   All of this assumes that the templates will be used with a guide bushing in the router, and that you'll actually have at least two, same-sized templates - one for the center grooves, and one or more for the perimeter groove that would connect the others near the edge of the cutting board.

   http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v130-0202/ea_-_groove_forming

   http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v130-2615/ea_-_groove_forming

4. 
   oldusty | Dec 06, 2012 10:16am | #4

   Keep it simple

       Hi Bruce ,

         Perhaps the removable tray can sit on a slight angle enough for gravity to drain the groove ,

          you won't really need much slope .

             regards   dusty , boxmaker